|Jul 22, 2004, 01:27 PM|
How about a compiled list of hints for building/flying?
Has anyone compiled a list for people about building/flying park flyers?
o Do not use alot of glue to build your plane!
o use velcro for battery placement allows you to adjust the CG easily.
o build your plane to your flying location - tall grass= no landing gear, want to take off=find a place with dirt or pavement.
o If you glass your plane fly it BEFORE painting!!!!
o bring along a cooler to place your batteries in to cool them down. They operate better when cooler - and charge better. This works best if you are going to stay and fly alot. If you do this I would recommend NOT putting drinks in there also!
o fully discharge your NiMh and Nicads after flying your plane(Not needed with Lipos). Each time you do not fully discharge your batteries you are decreasing the life. By discharge I mean run till the motor cuts off. It wouldn't hurt to fully discharge occasionally too.
o Know other flyers in the area and talk with them. Find out the freqs they use so that you are not working in your garage and shooting down a plane in the park!
o Check your servos EVERY time you fly. Check for direction - you never know if a reverse switch could have accidentally be thrown on the transmitter. I found a tail hinge that was broken this way.
o Do not fly at populated parks!
I've only been flying for a few months - i'm sure there has to be alot more suggestions.
just some thoughts, any more input?
|Jul 22, 2004, 01:53 PM|
Since this is GWS forum ... related to GWS planes:
* GWS supplied glue is good! Use it like contact cement
* GWS hinges are good! Use a drop of foam-safe CA to secure
* CG on most GWS planes are quoted for experienced flyers, you can move it forward 5-10mm
* If you need need to replace a plane, remember that Slope Glider versions are available.
Just a quick comment wrt to batteries though; you don't need to fly till LVC for NiMh or NiCads; just charge and fly. Once in a while you might want to discharge a pack and then slow charge it at C/10. iirc deep cycling batteries (NiCad, NiMh) will decrease the number of life cycles.
As for cooling a pack, DON'T put it in a cooler with ice, etc. You will sooner ruin a pack. Battery packs (esp NiMh) operate BETTER when WARMER. In fact, even if you had just charged a pack 1 hr ago, you can put it back on a peak charger to 'warm it up' - you'll get better performance. Best way to cool a pack is forced-air cooling.
|Jul 22, 2004, 05:10 PM|
Just kidding of course!
|Jul 22, 2004, 11:18 PM|
it is common practice to put regular batteries in the refridgerator to keep the charge. I was under the impression that a hot battery does not charge as well as a cooler one. And by cooler i mean not warm to the touch, not cold to the touch.
|Jul 23, 2004, 02:58 AM|
Joined Jun 2004
hot or even warm packs are not suppose to be charged, natural temp is the best.
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|How to adjust the Cessna 180 properly for great flying performance||ecost||Parkflyers||6||May 26, 2009 03:29 AM|
|How about making depron elevons for an IFO/Firefly||ScienceGuy||Indoor and Micro Models||6||Dec 06, 2003 08:17 PM|
|Favorite Tips and Hints for building||martys||Scale Electric Planes||7||Apr 08, 2003 12:01 PM|
|How about an U-2 for the kids under 10?||GWS4CEO||Parkflyers||11||Mar 23, 2003 10:44 PM|
|Just Ordered T-Moth, Any Hints for Building or Flying?||glenclif||Parkflyers||12||Jun 19, 2002 08:59 PM|