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Old May 16, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Pictures show a temporary set-up for checking purposes.
The10oz Kavan tank is retained with an elastic strap to the platform.
Because of the tank size I had to cut away one of the horizontal frame members to make room. An 8oz tank would not avoid this.
The platform is removable by sliding rearwards, for future access below where the battery is expected to go. The yellow peg retains it.
Fuel delivery is via three 1/8 inch tubes.
Because of the throttle lever position I have extended access to it with a 5/8 inch 10 BA screw with several nuts added to improve firmness. May try to improve on this somehow.
I finally decided on beech wood for down thrust wedges.
The ON /OFF /Charge Socket is yet to be fitted.
The Rx is wrapped in sponge material and retained to the platform with an elastic strap.
The engine silencer will stay like a chimney, allowing oil spray to be blown over the top of the model and easily wiped off.
Ray
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Old May 26, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Another step forward over the last few days. Here's the tail feathers and one wing covered. These photos are before everything was shrunk tight. The tail feathers have been shrunk and came out beautiful. I'm waiting for the glue to dry overnight on the wing before I shrink that up.
Time to start thinking about colours
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Well the only thing left to do now is cover the fuselage and I already have the bottom of it done already. One little problem though is my engine cowl appears to have pulled itself inwards about 1/8" after hollowing it out from a solid block. It was fitting quite well and now the sides of the fuselage are exposed. I'll have to attend to that as well. The dacron shrunk up drum tight beautifully -not a wrinkle anywhere. Monday I'll pick up some dope from Aircraft Spruce in Corona.

Anybody have trouble covering the section behind the cabin that goes from a triangular shape to the first eliptical former? It looks like the covering might get a bit "funky" there.
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 10:43 AM
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Nice work Ian.
I think you are right about the round to angular transition behind the cabin, expect that you may have some concave covering there.

You might want to consider some extra sticks in there to retain a nice shape, so long as you don't have a problem with those sort of mods
sparks
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Oxford, UK
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Help!

I am now at the stage of fitting side stringers. What puzzles me is the plan instruction, “Fuselage sides covered with 3/32 inch sheet – from nose to dotted line”,
My stringers are standing proud of the main framework by a ¼ inch.
Does this mean that 3/32 sheet is laid on the main framework between the stringers, or laid on top of the stringers?
I may deviate and do a partial fill in.
Suggestions welcome. Thanks
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 07:35 PM
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look at post 185 on page 13 you'll see the extent of the sheeting. It goes on top of the stringers.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Easton View Post
Another step forward over the last few days. Here's the tail feathers and one wing covered. These photos are before everything was shrunk tight. The tail feathers have been shrunk and came out beautiful. I'm waiting for the glue to dry overnight on the wing before I shrink that up.
Time to start thinking about colours
Nice work. This project is really turning out well.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 03:02 AM
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Thanks Ian for the confirmation.

Having slept on the problem the word cladding comes to mind. It has to be this way.

Ben Shereshaw, designer of this most elegant and robust model plane, must either have had the construction of Fort Knox (Kentucky) in mind when he conceived it, or lived and flew somewhere in the Rockies, in my humble opinion!
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Old Jun 16, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Perhaps he owned stock in "Solarbo."
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Not much progress recently due to other priorities, but the cowling is now made and ready for cutting out for engine - which I shall leave until the engine is mounted.

I used ol timer's method which worked well. I cut each piece as a 'C' shaped piece first and stuck them together in situ, then carved and sanded to shape. I plan to use magnets to fix the cowl.

Next job is to mount the servos in the stabiliser and fin, and decide how to mount the tail plane - Ian's way or as per original.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 07:49 AM
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Fitting servos in the tail took me much longer than expected. A closed loop system for the rudder and push rod for the elevator would have been much easier and quicker. Also, because of the stability platform fitted to support the tail unit, I find very little space to stow the cables at the rear end. As shown, I have had to stack the extension cable connectors vertically with insulation tape to get them in/out of the restricted space.

Looking at your Inside of cowling picture, I notice you have wisely made the wall thickness greater than mine. From previous experience I found that in working Solartex covering over the compound curves of a thin wall cowl, tensions were created that pulled the sides in somewhat. This time I will brace the inside of the cowl to resist being pulled in when covering.

Instead of fitting glazing pieces behind the windscreen and side window frames, I am fixing them on the outside. The windscreen is 30 thou acetate sheet and is secured with Futaba servo screws. Getting the shape just right took several tries. At the moment this arrangement makes access to the cabin area easy, which I like and would like to keep it this way but to avoid oil penetration will have to seal it with covering material.
Side windows will be stuck on.
Ray
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 12:25 AM
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Ray,
I like your front glazing idea, it looks really good. I'm going to use your method of putting the brass tubing to the fuel tank through the firewall.
I'm just about finished covering mine. All that's left to do is one side and the top section of the fuselage. Hopefully I'll have that done tomorrow as I go on vacation this week for a while.

Ian
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Nice craftsmanship Ray. I agree with Ian, the screen glazing looks really good.
sparks
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 08:29 AM
Blueplaidcanard flyer
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Pull the covering as tight as you can at the transition area on the fuse and let the glue dry well and it will shrink to the shape it has to be on its own.I've built a number of these odd shape fuses and so far it has allways come out fine.
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 01:59 PM
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That's what I did -I mide it in small sections. I haven't shrunk it down yet but it looks fine.
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