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Old Jul 14, 2004, 02:56 PM
Registered User
Vancouver WA
Joined May 2004
1,335 Posts
Piper Cheyenne PSS Project

Okay, so here's another build thread...

Civilian airplane, twin turbine, not a King Air... span will be about 67" with tip tanks (ooo, a hint ).

Fuse will be my first attempt at using the lost foam method. Since I don't trust my "eyeball alignment" carving, I put a ply keel in the center on both vertical and horizontal axis to help with the shaping. Goof number one was buying aircraft ply instead of lite ply by mistake. The aircraft ply is a lot harder to cut out with an x-acto! I cut out the inside of the profiles with a rotozip bit in my drill press. Worked well.

Lots of sanding and shaping to do, will post progress pics as things move along...

ericm
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Old Jul 14, 2004, 03:32 PM
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North Hills
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Looks like a Cheyenne to me - or maybe a Conquest? Do a bit more shaping and post some more pics.
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Old Jul 14, 2004, 06:03 PM
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Vancouver WA
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Wow, good ident right off the bat! PA42-1000 to be exact... simpler engine nacelles on that model, plus the full-scale bird is awesome!

What, more shaping? Shucks, I was gonna just glass and go with the Flinstones look Just kidding, lol Will update as I make progress...

ericm
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 02:53 AM
sloper dude
Vancouver, WA
Joined Jul 2004
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Man, you just flew the Commander for the first time 2 weeks ago! (got video) The sawdust just rinsed out of your bathtub, the completed Commander finally takes up residence next to Lear 24, and a Cheyenne is already on the production line to join the fastest growing business fleet to hit the slopes. Amazing, keep it up. Breakaway tip tanks? Access hatch? Flaps? Will be cool to see its progress!

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Old Jul 15, 2004, 10:52 AM
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Vancouver WA
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The Lear is a more of a model 35, definately not a 24. But no biggie... And will deal with the details you asked about when the time comes. Stay tuned...

ericm
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 01:07 PM
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San Diego
Joined Jun 2001
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Looks like a great start Eric. I've yet to do the lost foam method, but am looking at trying it out later this year. This will be a great tutorial to watch. Keep up the good work and post as many pictures as you can!

Jeff
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 02:19 PM
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Tutorial? Haha, maybe "how not to" lol... Will post as much as possible. I will be gone for the weekend, but back into it next week. Wing cores just arrived, so plenty to do now! Lots of carving and shaping (my least favorite) first, gotta get this fuse going.

ericm
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 05:31 PM
Slope Dog
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The Gorge
Joined Mar 2002
794 Posts
Eric,
You might want to use EPS foam if you are doing lost foam. It really melts out fast with a little acetone or laquer thinner. The inside of the plane will kind of rough though as the epoxy soaks in between the beads of the EPS and you can see individual bead marks once the foam is melted out. We used to do alot of Ninja fuses that way as we kept breaking them in half at East Ridge with just the wooden stock fuse. I'll give you a call later tonight and give you an update on the F 22.
Stubbs
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:49 PM
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Too late! I figured I was using the wrong stuff, but I had it in stock so away we go. I also figured the inside might end up rough, I'm thinking about clear-taping the foam before glassing the fuse. But the inside shouldn't really matter, right?

ericm
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 02:47 PM
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Okay, got back on the Cheyenne project after lollygagging around for too long. Fuselage is ALMOST ready to glass. Seems like it's taken me forever to get this thing shaped... I think I will try taping the plug first as that seemed to work out really well for Brian C.

Got the outboard wing cores and the stab cores sheeted with 1/64 ply, I used West Systems epoxy to bond the sheeting. I much prefer epoxy to contact cement, as it gives the cores a chance to settle into the beds accurately before the glue cures. And even though I've read to scrape off as much epoxy from the skins as possible, I've had some debonds happen due to not enough glue. So I like leaving the skins a bit wet. It may add a whole ounce of extra weight all together, OOOOO, like I care. I'll bet it's not that much.

Will get more cores layed up tonight, also should finish shaping the fuse plug.

ericm
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:03 PM
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United States, FL, Punta Gorda
Joined May 2002
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You do some really, really nice work Eric. It looks like you have another show stopper well under way, and I can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:03 PM
That Freeking Laird Guy
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United States, CA, Riverside
Joined Feb 2002
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I've found that leaving too much epoxy can actually be worse since it can trap lots of air bubbles between the core and sheeting. I have found a way to eliminate this (I think). Lately I have been scoring the sheeting and the cores with 40 grit sandpaper before bonding them. This give the air a way to escape and give more teeth for the glue to grab onto. But the last few plywood wings I have sheeted with Gorilla Glue (PU glue). That stuff is da-bomb!

TFLG
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:07 PM
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Vancouver WA
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Hey, great tip! I hadn't thought of the trapped air thing. I've been thinking about trying PU glue...so it works out okay then? I LOVE the stuff for attaching leading edges, also for gluing in lead ballast.

Thanks for the info!

ericm
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:24 PM
That Freeking Laird Guy
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United States, CA, Riverside
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I've done about 4 wings with it so far and have not had any problems. It's very popular with the large scale aerobatic guys. They've been using it for years. I used it to glue the leading edges onto the P-51 wing I am currently building and it worked good for that too. Normally I would be too impatient to wait 4 hours for the glue to dry but I did it right before I went to bed. It's great glue if you can wait for it to dry.

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Old Aug 09, 2004, 03:55 PM
Vitruvian JART
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San Francisco
Joined Mar 2003
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I've got some of that Gorilla Glue but I haven't used on anything yet. Does it sand?
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