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Old Jul 13, 2004, 06:57 PM
Registered User
Madison, WI
Joined Oct 2003
661 Posts
There are good days and there are...

BAD DAYS!
Went to Fairmont Ridge to slope today. Just seconds after I launched it, the Hoot was going crazy! I could not control it. It would not respond. I have had radio glitches there before, but that was on Ch45. I had switched to another channel, an didn't have any problems the last time I flew there. The Hoot did a spiraling dive and hit hard. The brand new AXI 2820/12 motor is still fine. Battery and radio are ok too. The prop and spinner are toast. The fuse is in very bad shape, although I think repairable. Both wingbolts sheared off, but the front glass dowels have pulled away from the wing. I will have to disect these areas to see what I can do to repair them. Other than a few other minor dings on the wings, they are in surprisingly good shape! However, 2 flap servos (Hitech 81's) are stripped and both aileron servo (D60's) arms are broken and maybe worse.
Fairmont Ridge is off my "Places to Fly" list. Need to find another slope that's not surrounded by such high density population (noise sources).
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Last edited by hbielich; Jul 13, 2004 at 09:31 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2004, 08:37 PM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
The fuse is an easy repair.. 15 minutes and it would be good to go. the wing hold-downs - well, look at the recent thread on repairing a Filip Sport wing.
Next time, please reduce your picture size.
..a
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Old Jul 13, 2004, 09:33 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Oct 2003
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Sorry about the images... Hope this is better.
Where would that Filip Sport wing repair thread be?
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Old Jul 14, 2004, 03:30 AM
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GliderGuideMan's Avatar
Hampshire, UK
Joined Apr 2004
979 Posts
Sorry about the Hoot - I know how you feel I did the same thing to my Filip 600 Sport and Omega 1.5e recently (don't ask )

here is the thread on repairing a leading edge dowel dowel repair

here is one on repairing a glass fuz bandit repair

good luck with the repairs

Dave
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 05:23 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Oct 2003
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Now that I am trying to repair the Hoot, I'm beginning to realize that the painful part of crashing a plane isn't the crash itself, but the GD mess of rebuilding the thing. You all make it look so easy in the threads! I have just semi-finished with the first phase of repairing the fuse. What a mess! I stripped everything out of the fuse. Then sanded rough edges on all the cracks inside after tacking the plane together with fast CA. Using a stiff tape I taped some of the major cracks on the outside where there were holes so epoxy wouldn't leak through when aplying to the fiberglass inside. There were so many large cracks that I thought it best to use one large piece of fiberglass cloth to the inside. This was a big mistake. My first problem was after I layed the cloth in the fuse, I mixed 30 minute epoxy with half epoxy and half hardener as per directions. Well let me tell you, it didn't take any 30 minutes to harden! As soon as I mixed the 1oz of epoxy, it started to heat up quickly. I applied it as fast as I could but only got through about 1/3 of the cloth.
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 05:33 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Oct 2003
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By that time I had a block of epoxy sitting in the mixing cup. So I tried again only this time I mixed in equal parts of epoxy, alcohol and hardner. OK this seemed to work better, but since I used one large piece of cloth I got a big buble/wrinkle right in the middle. So as of now, I'm giving up and letting it dry with the wrinkle. I guess I'll try to sand it away when it dries and apply another piece afterward. I started out with latex gloves, but by the time I quite I took them off and had epoxy all over my hands. If I die from the toxins I just hope I get a chance to finish the repair and fly this plane a few times first!
I guess I'm just all thumbs (and all stuck together) when it comes to repair work!
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 05:42 PM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
Lay the glass on a piece of wax paper, and paint it with as little epoxy as it takes to wet it. Press a piece of paper towel onto it to soak up the excess. Then paint the inside of the fuse with epoxy - again, just enough to make it wet, NOT slapping it on so it could run anywhere. Then lay the glass onto the painted area - it will stick well enough right away. Piece of cake, as you commented..
..a
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 05:59 PM
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Madison, WI
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Here's a photo...
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 06:01 PM
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I will do that - next time.
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 06:01 PM
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Madison, WI
Joined Oct 2003
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What mix for the epoxy do you use?
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:16 PM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
I usually use "finish cure" as it dries to a hard, sandable finish. It's rated 20 minutes.
Your image doesn't make it look all that bad..

..a
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:19 PM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
As an FYI, I reinforced the nose of my Joker - it was not holding up well to spot landings for LMR/F5J.. I glued the cracked pieces with CA, sanded it smooth inside and out, then added 8" x 1" unidirectional carbon mat (looks like 1/8" strips of carbon tow all laid neatly next to each other) to each side of the fuselage (inside) from the nose to the second wing hold-down bolt. I also added a 1"x3" strip of heavy glass underneath and onto the forward wing-mount bolt, to reinforce that section. The entire repair added 8g! .. and I removed more than that by taking off the decals!
..a
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:34 PM
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Laurel, MD
Joined May 2001
12,687 Posts
man you sound like me and my first repairs. A few things you will learn the hard way (as I have) is leave the modeling store epoxy alone. Go to the boat store and buy the marine epoxies like west systems, MAS, MGS... Next, if you have to use the modeling epoxy 3 hour is your friend for these sort of repairs. Also after you mix the epoxy, pour it in a plate so that it doesn't heat up and exotherm so fast. This is less of a problem with the marine epoxies. Don't mix alcohol and epoxy as it WILL weaken the finished product. Use the higher grade epoxies and you won't need to thin them as they are fairly viscous and aare the consistancy of thin dish soap. I hope this helps...

j
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:43 PM
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United States, VA, Leesburg
Joined Feb 2003
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Ready to take the plung myself!
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Old Jul 15, 2004, 07:46 PM
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Laurel, MD
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Russ, post your repairs in composite fabrication. You will get topical coments from there...
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