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Old Jul 10, 2004, 07:55 AM
Just an A&P mechanic
Joined Sep 2002
372 Posts
looks like the typical UPS box dlivered by them. They mustave hired real apes that work for bannas to handle our airplanes before they are sent to our homes.
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Old Jul 28, 2004, 09:27 PM
I'm your huckleberry
Doc Holiday48's Avatar
USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
1,814 Posts
I have looked through several build threads and I have not seen this question come up. I have a CSD P51B kit. I have sheeted the wings and glued on the leading and trailing edges and the wing tips. I was getting ready to glue the forward leading edge next to the fuse on and then start shaping the leading and trailing edges and tips. But before I did any more I laid out the wings on my building board and looked at the wing sweep. The drawing that comes with the kit shows the leading edge at the wing tip to be 1 3/4 inches swept back from the root leading edge. I checked this with a square against the wing root and found the leading edge at the tip to be about 2 3/4 inches. To fix this I would have to cut the root at an angle that would remove about a 1/2 inch at the root leading edge. Is this correct? I have seen info about sanding in the dihedral but nothing about the wing sweep and the instructions do not mention this. I would really appreciate some input on this before I continue on.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old Jul 28, 2004, 10:57 PM
That Freeking Laird Guy
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United States, CA, Riverside
Joined Feb 2002
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Yup, sand the root to acheive the desired sweep. It's not really important unless you are trying to keep a scalish look. If you want to make the plane lighter you can keep the extra sweep. This will move the CG back slightly thus requiring less lead in the nose. Most of the CSD kits use the same cores (except the F-20 and P-39) that's why you may need to sand the root to get the sweep called out on the plans.

TFLG
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Old Jul 29, 2004, 12:30 AM
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Doc Holiday48's Avatar
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Joined Jun 2004
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Thanks, That is what I wanted to Know. I'm going for a little more scalish look. So I will sand it off.

Bob
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Old Jul 29, 2004, 05:48 PM
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Southern California
Joined Sep 2003
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If ya wan't that scalish look--- don't forget to add the strakes in the front of the wing near the fuse! Just use some 3/16 basswood and glue the on after you mount the wing to the fuse-- then shape and bondo to blend them in. IMHO
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Old Jul 30, 2004, 05:30 AM
Objects in mirror are losing
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USA, NV, Reno
Joined May 2003
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Don't forget, the strakes on the b model are really subtle. I don't know if I'd even bother with 'em.
stu
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Old Aug 01, 2004, 10:40 PM
I'm your huckleberry
Doc Holiday48's Avatar
USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
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Thanks guys, I have the strakes cut out and ready to put on. After viewing several pictures of the B model I will adjust there size a little. I've been really caught up this last week with my nieces wedding and haven't had a chance to work on it. But now that it is done and the hang over is almost gone, I should be getting re-started on it this week and I hope to be at Fermin with it soon.

Bob
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Old Aug 07, 2004, 01:15 AM
I'm your huckleberry
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USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
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Hi all,
I have a few pictures of what I have been up too. Unfortunately I do not get a lot of building time in. So I'm taking a long time to get it done. Every thing at this point is just taped together. My next question is do I glass the tail or just cover it with solartex. I want a medium speed plane since this is a jump up from what I have been flying. I don't want my 1st to be a lead sled. I want something that will fly in 12+ knots of wind so I was thinking about a 35 to 40 OZ. plane. Is this the right weight and can I achieve this with glassing the tail feathers?

Bob
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Old Aug 07, 2004, 01:23 AM
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Southern California
Joined Sep 2003
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IF you want to keep it light--- go solartex on the tail feathers. YOu can still fare them in really will with spackle and white glue mix--- it's very light and real strong-- sands well and keeps the weight addition to a minimum. I'd do bondo fillets on the wing--- stronger and the weight is closer to the CG-- unlike the tail. Then solartex the wing too-- should easily come in around 40oz.
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Old Aug 07, 2004, 01:29 AM
That Freeking Laird Guy
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United States, CA, Riverside
Joined Feb 2002
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Go ahead and make the fillets from bondo. There's not that much on a P-51. There is not much difference in weight whether you glass or cover with solartex if you use a light to medium weight glass. A nice layer of 3.5oz glass should be about the same as solartex. The shape of the wing tips looks a little goofey in the pic. Dunno if its a perspective thing but check it to the template just in case.

I just picked up a P-51 myself and just started building it this evening. The only thing I have done so far is to sheet the cores.


TFLG
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Old Aug 07, 2004, 04:31 PM
I'm your huckleberry
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USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
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Thanks for the info. As far as the wing tips go they are a little different and I have not finished with them yet. They are a little more rounded than I wanted them to be I got a little carried away with the sanding. The trailing edge is more rounded and needs to have a sharper corner. They are also slightly bigger than the plans so I still have some stock to reshape. another thing I was trying to do with the tips is not have the ailerons go all the way out to the ends. Instead I have the wing tips going the full cord from the leading edge to the trailing edge and having the ailerons end slightly short of the end of the wing. I hope that makes sense. I don't no if that is a good idea or not, No offense to all of you who have your ailerons going all the way to the wing tip. It's just a personal preference I like the look of a full cord wing tip. I also need to do a little more sanding on the leading edge. One side has a nice shape to it and the other is still a little bit to big on the radius. I have been going by the pic's in the air cobra build for the right radius.

TFLG if you think my wing tips will create a handling problem please let me know and I will change them back to full length ailerons.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old Aug 07, 2004, 08:34 PM
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Southern California
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Bob--- you've seen my planes fly at Fermin--- most DO NOT have full span ailerons anymore -- I have some that do-- can't tell the difference at Mach 1!!
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Old Aug 08, 2004, 01:37 AM
I'm your huckleberry
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USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
1,814 Posts
I'm glad to hear that, I have always made my aileron and wing tips this way since the 70's and really did not think it would be a problem. But since this is a new plane for me and TFLG designed it I thought I would ask.

I am going to work on the tip shape as I'm not happy with the way I did them. I got some more work done today and I hope to have the wings glued on by the end of the weekend. The next big challenge is saving up for an incidence meter.
I only get a $20 a week allowance

My goal is to have it already maidened before the fermin pot luck on Aug 22, I doubt I will have it finished painted by then but should have it all primered and ready for finish paint. I'm putting as much time into it as the Honeydoo list allows.

Bob
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Old Aug 08, 2004, 01:41 AM
Tryin not to be a hack!!
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SoCal
Joined May 2004
1,797 Posts
I dont know where ya live, but you can borrow mine. Im in glendale, burbank border, 5 @ 134 fwy intersect.
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Old Aug 08, 2004, 01:56 AM
I'm your huckleberry
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USA, CA, Gardena
Joined Jun 2004
1,814 Posts
Hey, Let me see what my schedule is next week. I live in Torrance but do a lot of traveling around So Cal. for work. Maybe I can meet with you and at least have you check it with me.

Thanks,
Bob
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