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Old Jul 05, 2004, 11:24 AM
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If you can find true stainless tweezers, they are handy for soldering, as they will
heatsink to prevent a wild flow of solder at just the wrong place. Works for me !

Dave
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Old Jul 05, 2004, 11:56 AM
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Graham do you know the code for the PCB?

Thanks
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Old Jul 05, 2004, 12:01 PM
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no, just scroll though about 4 pages of assorted PCB and keep your eyes open for the cheap stuff.

Graham
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Old Jul 05, 2004, 03:32 PM
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Found it, the keywords are both flexible and PCB.

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Old Jul 06, 2004, 01:00 AM
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Finally! I programmed a PIC12C509A and it verified correctly! I have just a couple projects to do with the PIC, then I will build the IRRX and Tx. This is good.
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Old Jul 09, 2004, 02:25 PM
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PS controller the 10K pots

Elementary problem with my PS controller clone. I didn't know this but my 10K joysticks are wired in parallel so they run to 5K rather than 10K. Now I'm going to do a quick point to point wiring using perfboard cut to the same shape.

Are the real PS controllers joysticks 0 to 10K, in terms of output?

Johnny
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Old Jul 10, 2004, 01:45 PM
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I know I remember that the Futaba Hex files work with Hitec, but I don't remember if anyone actually got it working with a Hitec system. Has anyone done so? Are there any changes that need to be made? The reason I ask is because I used to have a Fut. and I remember the controls being a little different than my Hitec.



Thanks,
Matt

PS: Johnny, are you only using the info from Tanaka's page to do your PS2 conversion?
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Old Jul 11, 2004, 04:08 AM
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Yes,
I used Koichi's design, but I thickened and moved the tracks slightly because the copper etch was eating through them in the original thickness. I posted the changed layout earlier in this thread. Koicihi's PCB designs do not cover the joystick part of the PS2. But his circuit diagram shows that the out from them are expected to be 0-10 K ohms. I don't know if he has checked this in his standard PS2 controllers, but in my clone which I picked up off ebay, see picture earlier in this thread. They only run 0-5K because, although off the PCB they are 0-10K pots. To get this (5K) output from them they must be wired in pairs, and in parallel. I have put mine on perfboard, so its now not as neat as the original PCB it replaced, but they are now giving 0-10K output as required by the PIC. They must be 10K because the control is achieved by a CR timimg circuit to detect the joystick position. Billy Stiltner confirmed this is how the circuit works, again see earlier in the thread. I still have to put the tiny FET I bought off Graham on to the circuit board, which I am a bit nervous about. A Lipoly charging circuit to make, etc. etc.
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Old Jul 11, 2004, 05:54 AM
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I have assembled the Tanaka designed Playstation Tx and Rx using PICs programmed by David DeWit. After some fault finding and some chats with David, I have it working but only over a very short range, like 150mm. The emitters are powered via a SMT 2502 Fet so should be getting full power. Not sure about the emitters themselves though, they are unlabelled, 5mm and blue.

Any ideas for correction from those who have a similar system operating?

By the way my PS clone had 10K pots. I reused the part of the original board which included the gymbals, led and inst switch. Built the new main board and emitter boards with vero board. David has a layout for something similar if anyone needs it.

Phil S
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Old Jul 11, 2004, 06:56 AM
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Phil,

Did you check the actual output of the pots vs ground when in the original PCB? I rebuilt mine, after making the holes in the metal case of the joysticks square and thought I had cocked up and the pots were 5K. So I prepared another pair of joysticks, took out the originals, put the new ones in. Then I was surprised when their output was still 5K and not 10K, then I checked the original pots and they were 10K. Then it dawned on me.
The stripboard means it is like sphaghetti junction, but they go from 0-10K and the centre point is about 5K. Was it difficult to place and solder the fet, did you use any tricks like super glueing it place first?

Thanks,

Johnny
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Old Jul 11, 2004, 08:57 AM
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FET,

I put three thin blobs of solder on each pad, placed the fet on top then melted the solder on each pad in turn. The fet is a bit skewiff, so it does not look too pretty, but its electrically sound. Now to figure out which joysticks needs to go which channel on the PIC, and which way round to take off the ground from the pots,e.g. is full left rudder zero ohms or 10K ohms, etc.

Johnny
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Old Jul 11, 2004, 08:04 PM
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Johnny,
I measured the pots and found they were ten as labelled. I cut all the lands on the old PCB so that none of the remaining electronics was connected to the pots, then wired the gymbal pots to the new veroboard with cables.

Soldering on the SMT fet was not a problem, I have had a bit of practice swapping the transistor for fet on about 10 Bit receivers. A pin prick of thick Ca is useful to hold the fet in place, but you can use a pin or match and no glue if you have a tidy bench to find it again if it flicks away. I have never needed to tin the legs, just the board. not much heat is needed.

Tanaka's schematic has the channels numbered 1-4, Normal convention has 1 ailerons, 2 elevator, 3 rudder and 4 throttle. I only have the motor connected so far but it is working from pins 8 and 11. I had to reverse the wires to the pot to get direction correct. Do not worry about direction on other functions you can swap the coil wires on the Rx or flip the magnet.

I still have only a few inches range though, any other ideas.
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Old Jul 12, 2004, 02:23 AM
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Phil,
Somebody had a similar problem (I think) earlier in this thread. So there may be answer as well.

Thanks,

Johnny
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Old Jul 12, 2004, 01:16 PM
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Phil,

Do you know what the wavelength of your emitters is? normally, the sensors we use, are designed for 950nm. IR LED emitters come in a variety of different wavelenghts. If your emitters are at 850nm, you will only get about 20% of the effectiveness of the sensor. This may explain the short range.
another possibility is that the carrier frequency of you TX and RX sensor are mismatched? Are you using 38kHz for both? can you verify this?

good luck!

regards,
gerhard
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Old Jul 12, 2004, 05:54 PM
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Thanks Gerhard,
Koichi and Dave have also suspected frequency miss match. I have a 38kHz sensor, but the toggle button on pin 1 is not working so we all suspect I have another problem somewhere, wrong wiring or damaged component. I will keep looking for other faults. My past record on sucessful electronic assembly is about 50%, but I get there eventually.
Phil S
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