Matt,

I got mine from DigiKey. I have 2 sided, .010 with 1 ounce copper and .005 with 1/2 ounce copper. Unless you are going for a world record I would stick with the .010 stuff, the .005 is pretty flimsey. BTW your servos are on the way via UPS, will be there next Thursday. DPDC arrived fine. Good luck.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

I just got a "Micro Blast" Bit car today, so that should keep me busy atleast until I have everything I need to build an IR Rx & Tx. I've got just about everything except the IR sensor and PCB. And I am almost done reading this thread. Which sensor should I get? Can I get that at digi-key also?


Matt

Bit embarassing but here is my "heavy" 0.3g Ir receiver on flex PCB with dingly dongly sensor attachment (don't ask for a translation). Sensor is sensibly lightnened for the intended application not ravaged like you guys have been doing. PCB was my first attempt at toner transfer, I bought the wrong paper but it did work to a fashion, will try and improve.

Cheers,

Graham

Looking good, Graham. I found during toner transfer, that the best paper was fairly thick Economy Photo Glossy paper, its more like card, but works great. I toner transfered schematics I'd drawn out for a LiPo charger 2 weeks back, and it just poped out by itself when I dipped it in some warm water for a couple of minutes. The paper was from Epson.

I've probably killed more sensors then I'd have liked to.

Uttam

What's the RX going to go on??

I bought HP, I was at the stationers and couldn't remmember the recomended type. I'll be buying some epson ASAP.

On RX is for an 8" spitfire much like Peter Frosticks spit in the thread on Joe's hellcat. I have milled and hollowed the fuselage and am considering using a 60mAh cell and perhaps direct drive. The 7mm motor might do the trick but I may go for the wes motor on the grounds that is is likely to be more robust.

A second RX is for a secret project I am working on. Something a bit special, not really a big secret but I just want to get the model finished before posting. It is turning out to be very light and if it works will be fantastic. Even if it doesn't work it will be the coolest looking thing I have ever made. Sorry not to give more details. I will say this though, it is not a heli or an ultralight.

Cheers,

Graham

anti gravity flying saucer?
patrick.

Originally Posted by Graham Stabler

Even if it doesn't work it will be the coolest looking thing I have ever made. Sorry not to give more details. I will say this though, it is not a heli or an ultralight.

Cheers,

Graham

Is it a bird ?

Managed to get enough time to finally build the JMP type SMD PIC programming lead. But I'm not happy with my soldering the new Maplins lead free solder does not seem to want to wet or run like the old leaded version did. The Shenmao alloy is 95.5/4/0.5 Sn/Ag/Cu. This would be no good for making the rx boards. What is the best solder alloy to use (and UK supplier)?

Thanks,

Johnny

Maybe I missed something, but where do you guys get your IR senors from?

Billy Stiltner has put some alternative US sources, get this thread in printable form, then scroll through it. Have a look about mid thread somebody gave all the part numbers for Digikey, I did it for Farnells, but they are useless for IR LEDs mine are still on back order months and months later. I was saved from a tortuous wait by epilot.

I find Farnells service generally very good. If you think Digi-key never runs out of components think again.

DIY LRFlier thread has index first page that will direct you to parts list etc.

I have the JRC and PNA sensors and other parts for IR

Dave

David-
How many of those parts do you have, would you consider a trade? I'm trying to get a hold of a JRC NJL.

Farnells UK, I should not tar the international arms of the company with the same brush.

Johnny

ps Dave are you going to include a battery charging circuit in the PS controller?

I just got the PIC12C509A-04/SN-ND and the PIC16F84A-20/P-ND and am ready to try and program them.
I think I understand the set up, but I'm a little confused on how to connect the PIC12C509A, I will be using a parallel cable, is this correct? :


PS: On the PIC16F84A-20/P-ND their is no connection on OSC2, AND RB4 right?
I read somewhere if you are going to program a chip you have to enable or disable something in the bios that deals with the parallel port, but I don't remember what it was?

Thanks for any help
leo

Can't remember a post on this topic but it looks like you've made a JDM programmer, so this discussion is probably relevant:-

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/viewtopic.php?t=2737

NB If you pose this question in DIY electronics forum, Andy Kunze might reply and he is expert on these matters.

Johnny

I made a few JDM PCBs, but it turned out that they suffered from over-etched tracks, defects were invisible to the naked eye, so that wasted a lot of time. In the end I built a Pic Key, which utlilises an external power source. This seems to be a good idea as the port voltages on new computers can be too low to put the PIC into the MCLR mode. and a multi-chip programmer kit (also cheap and cheerful). The Pic key can programm very large chips which is what I wanted.