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Old Dec 27, 2004, 04:51 PM
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tape a neo-dym magnet to the wire of your soldering pencil so it will stick to the arms of your flex light to get it out of the way if you need to use both hands for a second. Much better than laying it on the bench when you realize the holder for the pencil is covered up with meltables.
jimbo
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Old Dec 27, 2004, 11:00 PM
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Interesting tip on, "proper proping," of cd rom motors, (as well as other motors,) from Astro Bob.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=30
This can really help with choosing the right winding per volt when building these cdrom motors.
I'll delete it if it doesn't belong here.
Bill
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Last edited by Bilbobaker; Dec 27, 2004 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2004, 12:10 AM
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Bearing holder

I made this bearing holder from an aluminum archery insert for Carbon arrows. The outside diameter is 8mm. Used a 15/64 drill bit to ream out the inside. The result is a press fit for the bearings. This would probably work best using a drill press to get the proper alignment. YMMV... Cost, 0.25

Ken
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Old Jan 20, 2005, 10:42 PM
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CDROM Mounts

The Firewall mount sold by StrongRCMotors fits all 8 mm bearing tubes. Like those on Lens motors and even GoBrushless carbon tubes.
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Old Jan 21, 2005, 02:17 AM
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Here is a simple method for wiring up those 25mm 12pole stators ..use heat shrink.. allow to over lap the tooth .. once your done winding you can use a sharp razorblade and knock off the excess.. I like the heat shrink that leaves a hard plastic finish once your done heating up the tooth..

enjoy the pics guys and go wind a LRK or a simple ABCX4coils per phase for a real boost in power!

I used a 3stator stack of GB 25mm stators in the photos..
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Old Jan 21, 2005, 06:55 AM
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Flux rings

When using solid bar stock this may save a bit of time
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Old Jan 21, 2005, 03:58 PM
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Stainless steel tweezers are a must for magnet placement. As you know stainless steel is non-magnetic.

Also before you attempt a tricky cascaded magnet arrangement NNSSNNSS with curved magnets for 100% coverage.. first try a NSNS configuration to see if they even fit!! Once in an while an out-of spec magnet will prevent them from fitting.

Welcome Frogger, better to post GBv questions on a gobrushless discussion thread

Charlye
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Old Jan 22, 2005, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlye
Stainless steel tweezers are a must for magnet placement. As you know stainless steel is non-magnetic.

Also before you attempt a tricky cascaded magnet arrangement NNSSNNSS with curved magnets for 100% coverage.. first try a NSNS configuration to see if they even fit!! Once in an while an out-of spec magnet will prevent them from fitting.
Charlye
Not all stainless steel is non magnetic. Less than half in my experience.

Attempts at 100% magnet coverage usually end up not fitting or with one space. Thats why I us 25 degree segments and use a magnet spacer to end up with even spacing all around. Also some have concluded magnets interfere with each other if too close together.
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Old Jan 22, 2005, 12:05 PM
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300 series stainless is non magnetic while 400 series IS magnetic. If it doesn't stick to a magnet....you know the rest.
Rick
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Old Jan 31, 2005, 03:21 AM
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When winding a CCW-CW-CCW motor (eg for a 9 tooth stator and an 8 magnet can), be aware that counting turns of wire on the teeth will give you a bad wind. Depending on which side you are looking at, you will have to put on, or leave off an extra turn of wire on the middle (CW) tooth. The attached figure will hopefully clarify this.

The figure shows 3 teeth, each with one full turn of wire. Looking at the teeth from the front you count 2-1-2 winds on each tooth, looking at the teeth from the back you count 1-2-1 winds on each tooth.
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Last edited by wnreynolds; Jan 31, 2005 at 03:32 AM. Reason: typos/clarification
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Old Jan 31, 2005, 07:49 AM
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I'd call it balanced, at 1.75 turns per tooth

Really, the winds are the same, just one end turn missing on each. I wouldn't think there would be a problem, unless you are approaching saturation, in which case one end would saturate sooner... And, as the number of turns goes up, the error minimizes in percentage.
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Old Jan 31, 2005, 11:10 PM
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theaded bearing tube mounting system

I machine my bearing holders and only have about 1/2 inch or so sticking out behind my stator. There is a notched flange located about an 1/8 inch behind the stator. Behind that is the threads. 3/8-24 for 7mm od. bearings and 5/16-24 for 6mm od. bearings. The threads don't have anything to do with the bearings, that's just what fits inside of what. I use an electrical type hex nut (found on toggle switches or lamps) and re-tap them as required. (3/8-32 would work better, but I don't have that die) The flange mounts flush against a plywood firewall or tab and the nut is screwed on from the other side. A plywood key is glued into the firewall next to the hole and engages into the flange notch to prevent rotation while tightening the nut.

Wish I had a camera, then I wouldn't need a thousand words
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Old Feb 20, 2005, 04:26 PM
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homo ludens modellisticus
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Winding tools:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337381


Vriendelijke groeten Ron
diy outrunner discussion group
int. E fly-in & diy outrunner meet, June 26th, Nijmegen, the Netherlands
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Old Apr 14, 2005, 04:35 PM
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I snatched a Ditto with 18 teeth and had lots of 5x5x2mm neodyms, but none with 2.5mm thickness.

Some trials with stripes of a tin can (formerly filled with beans ) to fill the missing 0.5mm were unsuccessful, because I didn't get the stripe close enough to the bell.

With this methode I had success at last.



The lower image shows the motor with some test-windings.

quax
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Old Apr 14, 2005, 11:34 PM
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The perfect packing material

Old transformer laminations are uaually made of E and I shaped pieces
the I shaped ones are grain oriented silicon iron and are perfect to line alloy bells or use as packing behind magnets, the grain is in the correct direction wich makes it ideal. cheers.
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