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Old Oct 20, 2004, 05:18 PM
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Poole, Dorset, UK
Joined Mar 2004
486 Posts
Magnet placement

48mm Inside diam Can with 10 magnets
Draw a circle, with 10 spokes (36 degrees apart) - I used a CAD package (but lots of other ways)

Cut it out, put it in the Can and mark the inside walls with a marker pen

Position the first magnet
Let the 2nd magnet attach to the first - now flip it over and slide it around to the next marker
Repeat around the can

BEFORE you glue them in place - use a small Bar magnet to check that you have got the correct NSNS....

Now glue them in place
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 08:12 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
1,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMaric
BEFORE you glue them in place - use a small Bar magnet to check that you have got the correct NSNS....
It has been only once when I messed up the polarity of the magnets. After I implemented simple method I have always magnets the way they ahould be.

1. Lay all the magnets side by side on the flat steel bar (I use old caliper). Make sure every mognet repeals it's both neighbors - they just don't want to stick to each other. This is 100% proof that all magnets have the same pole up.

2. Use permanent marker (or any marker that will stay for a while) and "paint" all magnets from the top.

When I install magnets in NSNSNS pattern I always set every other magnets with painted side up. It is easy, as they don't want to stick to each other. Then I tack glue them in place so they don't move. Then I install remaining magnets this time painted side down. I use a toothpick to position them in place.

Easy, and you don't need a lathe to do that.

RysiuM
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Old Oct 20, 2004, 11:17 PM
Micro Brushless crazy
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India, Bangalore
Joined Jul 2002
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For magnet placement, just place the magnets so that the "sides" of the magnets ( The thickness ) attract each other. If they repel each other, you've got it wrong, flip the magnet and it should get fixed.
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Old Oct 21, 2004, 02:49 AM
Registered User
Poole, Dorset, UK
Joined Mar 2004
486 Posts
Fitting for a 3mm shaft

My Floppy disc motor had a 4mm shaft

Rather than trying to make a shaft coupler
(only found a Meccano 3mm - 4mm coupler & that was 20mm long with a 10mm OD)

I have found that you an get some plastic tube/pipe connectors (for Homebrew/chemistry piping)
In the UK they're sold as 'PolyPipe' connectors

You need to run a 3mm drill through them - but that's easily done - then they are a good snug fit (tapered) into the 4mm hole in the Can
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Last edited by SMaric; Oct 27, 2004 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2004, 10:40 AM
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Joined Aug 2004
734 Posts
My idea for joining two cans together to make a double. Pull out both stock magnetic rings carefully, you should be able to get one out intact or mostly intact. Now place the magnetic rind half way inside one can and then slip the other can over the protruding magnet ring. Solder and then cut the top off of one of the cans. Viola.

Latrans
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Old Oct 28, 2004, 10:16 PM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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When

You have finished the bell assembly try setting it up in a magnetic prop ballancer ,you may get a surprise and have to do a bit of adjusting ,even some store bought motors are a long way out of ballance.
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Old Oct 28, 2004, 10:49 PM
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United States, MA, Belmont
Joined Mar 2004
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Olmod,
I've noticed the same thing.
Any ideas how it would be best to balance them?
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 02:11 AM
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United States, UT, Salina
Joined Apr 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdon
Olmod,
I've noticed the same thing.
Any ideas how it would be best to balance them?
To balance mine I just drilled holes in the flux ring. I wonder if just adding some lead between the magnets would be better though.
Would only work on the 4mm wide magnets right?
Seems like drilling holes will make weird things happen in the magnetic field on the flux ring.
I used to play with magnets and paper sheets and iron filings as a kid and you can do some really strange magnetic field distortions buy drilling holes and glueing pieces of magnets together etc.
Bill
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 02:30 AM
Master of the Wind
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TEXAS
Joined Jun 2001
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You an use 3mm bolts and nuts as a option for bad bells that wont hold the stock shafts... I grind off the hex head on the bolt.. smooth and round the end off .. then grind down a 3mm nut to half its thickness then center the bolt in the bell with some thick ca and zap it dry fast.. then run down the front nut tight .. easy fix.. most hobby stores carry the metric bolts in the parts dept for rc cars... I use the 3X50mm bolts there is plenty of unthreaded shaft for the bearings and enough threaded area for gws slowfly props and spinners.....here is a pic .
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Old Oct 29, 2004, 05:20 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
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Reducing stator diameter

Reducing stator diameter


Quote:
Originally Posted by olmod
... I have on a number of occassions done this by either chucking in a pedistal drill or lathe and using a fine tooth file and or emery paper backed with a file with success, just dont try it with a cutter,
Quote:
Originally Posted by lensrc
... I mounted the spindle and finished stator in the lathe, and strapped my Dremel to the tool post. With the lathe turning slowly, in the oppisite direction of the dremel, I ground it down with very good precision, resulting in the tightest air gap I have ever achieved.

Len
Quote:
Originally Posted by fwilly
I usuallly put it in my dremel tool, spin it up, and lightly press it against a running belt sander ...
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Old Nov 02, 2004, 08:15 PM
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Tennessee/Mid-South US
Joined Mar 2002
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To remove the CA'ed in place magnets from your can if you want do 'do over', cut a soda can in half and fill it with acetone. Dump the can in and come back 2hrs later. The magnets will slide right out.. (Make sure to put the acetone somewhere safe and cover the can).

(I have read this thread start to finish and did not see that tip. If I missed it please don't hesitate to delete my post... )
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Old Nov 02, 2004, 08:22 PM
I crash, therefore I FLY!
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Spring Hill, FL
Joined Feb 2003
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I've found that the so-called "acetone-free" fingernail polish remover will work, too. I let the can soak in this stuff, overnight, using the smallest sized container that the can will fit into.

Doesn't seem to work as fast as acetone, but it does work.

Mike S.
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Old Nov 03, 2004, 08:08 AM
Unicorn
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(Cordova)Memphis, TN
Joined Jul 2002
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Just to complete the thought, if you are in a hurry, buy a bottle of CA remover. Magnets ready to remove in 15mins or so

Oh, and it's great for unsticking fingers too ... or so I've read
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Old Nov 03, 2004, 09:50 PM
AKA Don
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United States, MI, Houghton Lake
Joined Dec 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matchlessaero
To remove the CA'ed in place magnets from your can if you want do 'do over', cut a soda can in half and fill it with acetone. Dump the can in and come back 2hrs later. The magnets will slide right out.. (Make sure to put the acetone somewhere safe and cover the can).

(I have read this thread start to finish and did not see that tip. If I missed it please don't hesitate to delete my post... )
Glass baby food containers work well for this, and they have a screw on cap. If you have no babies around $1 will buy several, full of that yummy stuff.
Cours' if you use a STRONG magnet spacer you will not need a do over!
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Old Nov 04, 2004, 07:18 PM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
10,499 Posts
fluxit

In an earlier post i wrote about the use of loudspeaker centre pole pieces being a scource of the right stuff,after doing some preliminary tests on this GB stator+4, i can now state a positive outcome,the amp draw was lower for the same output,the wall thickness for the flux ring was 1mm,the mags were 2 mm thick x5x5s installation of mags made easy by use of STRONGRCMOTORS allingment tool ive included pics soz about the lousy res' my testing is not completed i need bigger props thats how good it is
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Last edited by olmod; Nov 04, 2004 at 07:57 PM. Reason: wrong text
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