FAQ cd-rom tricks

[bz1mcr]

Here is a bench test mount. It is easy to make, and simple and safe to use.
It is very helpful when making motor comparisons, because motors can be switched in a few seconds.

Fabrication:
1. Start with 1/2 plywood or similiar material.
2. Drill a hole sized to your motors bearing tube.
3. Make a saw cut thru the hole.

USE:
1. Clamp lightly in a vise. (Squeezing the saw cut.)
2. Insert motor.
3. Snug vise

Have fun!


Visit Strong RC Motors for custom setscrew motor mounts.

[olmod]

When i was looking around for a suitable low loss cable to hook up to my dyno meter box to monitor amps and volts,it was suggested to me to have a look at Jumbo speaker cable,plenty of fine strands robust around the work bench,and is low loss,oh and the cool look factor. Thanks Brian. BTW size of wire was selected to suit 20 amps.i use a p10 controller.

[Amos]

Originally Posted by olmod

When i was looking around for a suitable low loss cable to hook up to my dyno meter box to monitor amps and volts,it was suggested to me to have a look at Jumbo speaker cable,plenty of fine strands robust around the work bench,and is low loss,oh and the cool look factor. Thanks Brian.

Olmod,
I have been using speaker cables on my brushed motors. Only problem -
the insulation cannot sustain heat. Be sure to use larger cross section area
than you normally would.
Amos

[arx_n_sparx]

Originally Posted by Amos

Olmod,
I have been using speaker cables on my brushed motors. Only problem -
the insulation cannot sustain heat. Be sure to use larger cross section area
than you normally would.
Amos

I would NOT kibbitz in this thread, but Olmod is right. Speaker wire is generally rated at 60° C. Not the best stuff to use......

Brad

[empeabee]

The fit of the endbell and shaft is VERY tight ( by design - so it doesn't start slipping later in the motors life ).

I stacked up a pile of 3mm washers on the shaft and then used a 3mm nut to pull the bellend onto the shaft - adding washers as required.

Note
I got a bit carried away and pulled the bell about 1mm over the 'lip' of the shaft and had to shorten my bearing tube.

RysiuM sugested some Lithium greese on the thread, and also tapping a long nut with clearance hole to save having a stack of bowed washers left over looking for a home.

Mike

[Amos]

It is uneasy to glue a second row touching the adjacent magnets of the same
polarity, i.e the bottom edge of the magnets in the second row touching the top edge of the first row.

A simple stick with a magnet glued at its end makes this much easier.

With the "magnetic stick" pick up a magnet and place it in the can, with its
edge touching a same polarity magnet in the first row. The placed magnet
will not be repelled and is easy to adjust with a toothpick.
Apply CA carefully - not to glue the "picked" magnet to the stick magnet.

Place all magnets of the same polarity one after another. Only then unglue the magnet from the stick, and glue it again after you turned it over. Proceed to glue the remaining magnets.

In the second picture the magnet has not yet been glued - but keeps
stationary.

[olmod]

Arround my workshop there is on occasion a bit of magnetic dust due to grinding ect' when building or even sometimes checking i use a piece of 3/32"brass tube about 4" long around one end i put a small wad of that sticky black automotive putty and roll it around inside the magnets pushing into the gaps between as well to pick up any unwelcome guests,its quite surprising how much it can absorb. those magnets are so strong they just suck it out of the air. when im happy that a motor is clean i bag them or box them.

[Art Newland]

BTW, in addressing the whole "removing the enamel" thing, for soldering the wires when you are done winding, guys are using aspirin to eat off the insulation, because aspirin has acid in it (I suppose). Well... I got to thinking, maybe other acids would work also. I took some soldering flux used for sweating copper plumbing, put a little on a metal surface, sat the wire in the flux, and heated it with a soldering iron. Worked a whole lot better than aspirin, and smelled a lot better too. I was able to solder directly to the wire after. I'd still say use a lot of ventalation.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

BTW, in addressing the whole "removing the enamel" thing, for soldering the wires when you are done winding, guys are using aspirin to eat off the insulation, because aspirin has acid in it (I suppose). Well... I got to thinking, maybe other acids would work also. I took some soldering flux used for sweating copper plumbing, put a little on a metal surface, sat the wire in the flux, and heated it with a soldering iron. Worked a whole lot better than aspirin, and smelled a lot better too. I was able to solder directly to the wire after. I'd still say use a lot of ventalation.

I also found out if you tin your soldering iron well before you do this, it transfers the heat better, and tins the wire at the same time.

[vox]

Here's a good one for holding those bearings in the GB1.1 kit bearing tubes.

I cannot remember the exact size of the tubing, but I found some left over aluminium tubing (bought from a local hobby store) that fits tight (but not too tight) in the GB1.1 kit bearing tubes. I cut the Al-tube shorter than the bearing tube, leaving about 3-4mm either end (for bearings) and now the bearings just drop in and sit there.

With the long GWS shafts, you wouldn't even need to glue the bearings in - they'll be held in by the bell and the e-clip.

[iflyrc71]

Here is my cd-rom trick cool tip that is...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...63#post2599063

[Ron van Sommeren]

Removing insulation using soldering flux:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=82

[rysium]

First I want to point out, that it's better to use the right size magnets for the job, rather than splitting them to fit. If you can get 5x4x2 or 5x3x2 by the all means use them, instead of breaking 10x4x2 or 10x3x2 in half.

However if you have a whole stack of 10mm magnets (like do), but you need 5mm there is a simple way do do it. "Simple" if you have right tools

1. I use old caliper as a magnets support. Caliper is made out os steel, so magnets "stick" to it without moving. Caliper has a small straight grove in the center, so magnets can break easy.
I place the magnets lined up along the grove, and I mark the center line.

2. A small drill (like 1/16) is placed on the magnets on the center line.

3. All together is pressed on my arbor press. Before I bought the press, I used a vise. But press is much easier to work with. Not much force is needed to break 2mm magnets in half

Do not forget to protect the exposed magnet's surface from the elements. Use paint, glue or whatever is good to seal it of and protecting magnets from "rusting".

RysiuM

[iflyrc71]

Here is my picture for my tip on cutting holes on top for the homemade motors..

[lensrc]

A quick tip for the insulation problem: Buy solderable wire. I used Beldon, but now get it from an electric motor manufacturers supply company. I gotta buy 10 lbs to get it there, but it is a lot cheaper per pound, and I dont gotta strip the insulation, just use a 750 degree iron.