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Old Jul 22, 2004, 08:03 PM   #46
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If you are getting along in years like me, and your eyes aren't what they used to be, these magnifying goggles are a big help. I can't do a neat wind without them. Local Harbor Freight had these on sale less than $3.00.

Morris
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Old Aug 09, 2004, 10:53 PM   #47
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I originally posted this in another thread and someone suggested that it should also be posted here.

When mounting 5x4x2 magnets on the new GB custom flux ring I have found that they can be equally spaced around ring by cutting short pieces of 3/32 inch OD brass tubing and placing a piece between each magnet. It's a good tight fit and holds well. I don't leave the tube pieces in there permanently, just until the magnets are glued in.

Bill
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Old Aug 17, 2004, 05:21 PM   #48
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Stainless steel isn't magnetic; so any pins, needles or tweezers made from it are great for pushing magnets around - much stronger than wooden toothpicks.
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Old Aug 17, 2004, 05:32 PM   #49
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One tip I have is to place the magnets on the bell then glue then when you satisfied with the gap.

My first motor
17turns newb wire
Star/WYE
N45's
Go Brushless Kit

hey its my 700th post 300 to go!


Sean

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Old Aug 17, 2004, 07:35 PM   #50
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A simple test rig

The prop is mounted inverted, "pushing" down on the scales.
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Old Aug 20, 2004, 01:52 AM   #51
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Yet another winding tip.....

If you simply wind by hand and have trouble gripping the wire, I've had good results with using a latex rubber glove for the winding hand. It grips the wire extremely well and makes the job a lot easier.

A wittled down chop stick can help squish windings between stator winds to make extra room for more windings.
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Old Aug 25, 2004, 10:50 AM   #52
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Magnet Spacers

The first photo shows the spacer in a can. It's fast, easy and precise.

EDIT 10/10/04 Production spacers now available! from Strong RC Motors
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Old Aug 25, 2004, 03:20 PM   #53
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Stator plates alignment

If you still have a match you can use it for 25 mm plates alignment

The stators slots are aligned with groove in the bearing tube. A simple
pin locks them.
The matches are used to align the stator plates when gluing the hub to
the bearing tube.
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Old Aug 31, 2004, 06:07 AM   #54
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wind data

Interesting winding data for 20mm stators.


http://www.eflypower.com/modules/new...c_id=9&forum=4
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Old Aug 31, 2004, 03:35 PM   #55
Why not Delta?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron van Sommeren
Airgap, magnetwidth and -thickness, #magnets, stator- and rotor-diameter calculation:
Or this one, if you want it off-line using Excel. This one has all three GBL stators predefined, you can change all blue fields (number of magnets, thinckness, width, center airgap and bell thickness), and spreadsheet will calculate the rest.

RysiuM
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Old Sep 01, 2004, 10:16 AM   #56
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Ok, I've used Richards Spreadsheet and added the spece between magnets and space for magnets calculations. I also fixed a bug and now it draws the number of magnets correctly (would only do a max of 12 before). Not sure why you would need or want space for magnets but there it is anyways

Calculator

I'll work on letting you specify multiple mags per pole.

Jay
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Old Sep 01, 2004, 11:42 AM   #57
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One of the limits on how many amps you can draw is limited by how hot the coils get, so I used the three holes in the bell as a cooling fan. Before i glued the magnets in I drilled the holes out to 1/8 in. Put a small punch or drill shank in the hole and bend it in the direction of prop rotation to act like an airscoop. Grind the inside where it sticks out on the inside so it won't touch the coils or flatten the inside with a punch. Havn't tried with a temp gauge, to tell the difference but will do and let you know.
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Old Sep 02, 2004, 07:15 AM   #58
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You can try and use a battery or condensatorbank to 'blow away' a short between a winding and a statort. Connect one lead to the stator and another to the shorted coil for a very short time but be careful! See
http://www.powerditto.de/
-> tools
-> praktische Bautips
-> picture 5
Use http://babelfish.altavista.com for automatic online translation.
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Old Sep 02, 2004, 08:26 AM   #59
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Removing insulation lacquer/resin can be tricky, especially when using thin or litze/multistrand wire. Just heat the end of the wire with a soldering iron on an aspirine tablet (acetylsalicylic acid). Nasty fumes you may have to take an aspirine yourself

Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Sep 02, 2004 at 08:29 AM.
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Old Sep 02, 2004, 08:41 AM   #60
Why not Delta?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron van Sommeren
Just heat the end of the wire with a soldering iron on an aspirine tablet
I tried it with the tablets I had here. It didn't work because it looks like 90% of the tablet's mass is some kind of sweet filler (sugar ). Anyway, heated made a sweet fumes like burning sugar mixed with terrible odor (acetylsalicylic acid ). I had a big bubling goo on whe wire that didn't even touch the insulation.
I guess, I need to buy a Bayer

RysiuM
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