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Old Jun 23, 2004, 05:15 AM
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mark 1

Take one old security camera mount adjustable ball type,add some bits out of a scrap vcr and a cdrm, a few scrap dense wood pieces = Stator winding jig.
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Last edited by olmod; Jun 23, 2004 at 09:41 AM. Reason: pics n text
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Old Jun 24, 2004, 12:32 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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tips n tricks

Teflon tube in forceps and clamped to a desired tension helps.that counter sure does help also.
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Old Jun 24, 2004, 11:33 AM
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Damn! Never thought of a mechanical counter. Brilliant! A 1/4" long piece of 7/32" alum tubing makes a good spacer between the ball bearings in a GB kit. Keep's the front bearing and plastic retainer in position so that the bearing holder (and stator) doesn't rub the inner face of the bell.

JT
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Old Jun 24, 2004, 03:33 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
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Use a wooden dowel. Don't pull to much on the more thinner wires, they may stretch! Picture from www.torcman.de site.
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Old Jun 25, 2004, 02:01 AM
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Custom bells.

This is meant as guide to novice bell makers, and not meant as the only way to do it,but has proven to be a reliable way of getting a true spinning bell wi. 1st turn your alloy endplate approx 1mm oversize in all dimensions,while still in lathe chuck,centre drill and drill to 2.95mm diameter as deep as needed.cut off stock with a hss parting tool.2 either using a pedestal drill or you can by reversing your blank in the lathe and using the tailstock and chuck press a 3mm shaft into the blank so that 9mm protrudes out from the small boss side of your blank,it is a very tight fit and you will not need any adhesives.3 now place the 9mm end of the shaft into the lathe chuck and with the parting tool lightly skim the small boss.5 then re chuck on that small boss and make sure that the outside face is firmly against the chuck jaws by tapping lightly,and continue to machine inside face,i relieve about a 1 mm to allow for windings so theres no possibility of them rubbing.6 now machine a 1mm step for the flux ring wich previously has been semi finished within .02mm and loc tite it on while still in the chuck,that way there will be no variation caused by rechucking.7 when cured you can bore to finished size and finish outside and ends.8 finally rechuck with the open end of bell facing towards the jaws and resize the boss and front face ,radius ,and polish.

I hope that the pics will be good enough. sometime back a data base was published that gave makes and models of suitable cdroms for conversions i wonder if an updated version could be included in this thread please for new readers, is it also possible to rename the thread as "cdrom tips n tricks"
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Last edited by olmod; Jun 25, 2004 at 02:03 AM. Reason: pics
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Old Jun 26, 2004, 09:04 AM
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use a small caculator for counter 1+1 HIT = EACH WRAP FOR COUNT
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Old Jun 27, 2004, 02:37 AM
Why not Delta?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandy
use a small caculator for counter 1+1 HIT = EACH WRAP FOR COUNT
I would rather use BIG calculator, as it's much easier to hit the right key with your foot.

RysiuM
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Old Jun 27, 2004, 10:55 AM
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RysiuM,
That's what make's the mechanical counter so attractive. You can attach a stick, paddle, or string to the trip arm and use your foot, elbow, or nose for that matter.

JT
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Old Jun 27, 2004, 11:44 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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Stator winder update

The teflon tube held with the forceps kept splitting so have opted for some dense felt folded around the wire and clamped,at the moment i have a lock screw to hold the bearing tube and have to keep undoing it each time i change to the next stator to wind ,got to think up a better way with an index for every 4th stator pole,but there is no doubt in my mind it is a big improvement over any other way as you can see every wind as you lay them down ,and you get quicker ,with the aid of a small wooden wedge pushed in between each gap after each layer of wire is wound ,its easy to wind on 15x.5mm turns onto a 20mm stator. for all my small wooden tools i use jarra it is hard and has an oilyness to it , do you have jarra in the states?
all pms answered,
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Old Jun 27, 2004, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olmod
... for all my small wooden tools i use jarra it is hard and has an oilyness to it , do you have jarra in the states?
all pms answered,
Nope, no Jarra here, though I've heard of it as an exotic wood for use in woodworking Oak is very common hereabouts.

Question: do you use the 'handwheel' (red arrow in pic) to rotate the whole shebang while the right hand aims and feeds the wire onto the stator?

Suggestion: For an index could you make some sort of 'yoke' (blue in the pic) that would drop down into the 'spokes' to hold the stator?

-Mike
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Old Jun 27, 2004, 01:25 PM
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olmud,
Instead of a wooden wedge (we'd probably use hard maple) I picked up a broken APC prop and trimmed it to an appropriate thickness and used it to flatten the wire between stators. The glass-filled nylon is strong and has a slippery surface. Wedging between stators is a good idea. As you have discovered, it's a game of thousandths.... BTW, I'm left- handed and your explanations make perfect sense to me!

JT
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Old Jun 28, 2004, 01:28 AM
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this is a post on my magnet locating tool. It works fast and does a perfect job every time. I put the magnet in the bell and "sweep" it into place. then touch the manet with a small drop of ca. I have nail holes drilled into the wood now for 14 or 12 stops. The threaded end of the drive shaft tightens the bell to the wood disc (like the prop).
jimbo
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Old Jun 28, 2004, 01:47 AM
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ni'ihau
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winding tool

I took a thin hollow carbon fiber tube plugged the end with a solid carbon fiber rod. I drilled a tiny hole through the center of the plug with the dremel tool. The magnet wire slides through the thing and it makes locating the wire a snap.I never get shorts or bare spots in the insulation from nicking the hammer head corners. It is a big help if you have banana fingers like I do.
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Old Jun 28, 2004, 01:53 AM
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ni'ihau
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Q dope

After the motor has been tested I put this stuff everywhere the wires might move. It dries pretty fast and it is clear. It helps keep the soldered leads from getting loose from rough handling. And there is a little brush connected to the cap.
jimbo
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Old Jun 28, 2004, 11:57 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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Tips n tricks.

I took a thin hollow carbon fiber tube plugged the end with a solid carbon fiber rod.
Yep its good alright! early on i modified a biro and put a small brass tube lined with hard teflon tube lining allowing about a 1 mm sticking out the end but after a few winds the teflon split and the brass scraped off the enamel on the wire,since then ive been hunting for something to replace the tip with like a tungsten carbide bead or a ceramic bead,what i ended up doing at the time to provide tension was to use a piece of dense felt clamped around the wire at the top of the pen wich worked very well. keep the ideas and experiences coming guys .cheers all.
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