this long lost thread might interest someone, direct helicopter drive motor from 5.25" floppy drives
Direct Drive Main motor for microhelis finally ready!!!

found some laying around would deserve to be listed here
HUGE performance upgrade for your FTM MiG-15 and F-86!
cd-motor in 50mm homemade ducted fan
CDROM motor EDF unit working!
CD-ROM performance database for EDFs
6 or 12 magnets
Hard Disk Stator
One hour CD_ROM motor construction
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART2
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART3
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART4
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART5
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART6
One hour CD_ROM motor construction PART7

Wrong thread

how do you extend the shafting of the cd-rom motor? thanks

Typically extending the shaft requires replacement. There are many vendors that sell 3mm shafts. However the rails to your CDROM and DVD drives are 3mm hardened steel. They make good replacement shafts.

Originally Posted by IBCrazy

Typically extending the shaft requires replacement. There are many vendors that sell 3mm shafts. However the rails to your CDROM and DVD drives are 3mm hardened steel. They make good replacement shafts.

I was to collect old and non working CDROM drive from my IT department. Almost free replacement.

I got an old LG 52x cd rom n i removed the motor from it..Its now with the circuit board..I don't know how to remove the can n stator..Can any one explain me how to remove those things with some pics? Can i re wind this motor for using in planes? thank u..

Top edge of every magnet should be flush with the edge of the bell and the bottom edge of the magnet about 1mm above the bottom of the bell (this is the level where GBL can has 3 tiny noches on the side. Make sure these noches are between magnets. This setup guarantees enough airgap between magnets and stator and leaves space for wire between front of the bell and the stator.

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free games

Rewinding motors...
My brain cant seem to remember how many turns ive put round each of the sections, talk about short term memory loss , so I found this usefull counter..
counter 1.0 at www.dssf.net hit the space bar as you add a turn..simple enough for me...

i hope i dont sound like a complete idiot, but " what is meant by a short" i have been looking at rewinding my BW motors, and a couple of other motors, and i have watched a you tube vid, and after each faze you check for shorts, but thats the bit i dont get, what causes this short, is it when the wire touched the outside of the stator, i hope someone can explain this for me, as i dont want to fry my rewinds
carl

Originally Posted by doggit

i hope i dont sound like a complete idiot, but " what is meant by a short" i have been looking at rewinding my BW motors, and a couple of other motors, and i have watched a you tube vid, and after each faze you check for shorts, but thats the bit i dont get, what causes this short, is it when the wire touched the outside of the stator, i hope someone can explain this for me, as i dont want to fry my rewinds
carl

I only just joined, so sorry for the late reply. A "short" or "short circuit" is when any two conductors that need to be insulated from each other are in contact and conduct electricity.

In our case, if the corner of a stasor cuts through the insulation on a copper winding, that has the potential to connect it to a later winding that also gets nicked through the iron of the stasor.

Carl,

As an example, and so you can see how your meter handles and displays it, if you put the meter on the Rx1 or lowest resistance scale and touch the tips of the test leads or probes together you'll get a displayed value of 0.0 Ohms or something close to it like 0.01 or 0.02 Ohms or so.

If you hold the probes in contact for a few seconds, the reading may drop to 0.0 Ohms as the meter stabilizes. And that is a dead short between the probes, no resistance.

Some meters will display 0.0 when the probes are not in contact because there is no resistance present, others (my Fluke for example) will display "O.L." to indicate an "open line" when you are in the Rx1 or Check for Shorts mode.

When you put one probe on a stator and the other probe on a wire end there may be small amounts of paint or insulation at the points where the probes make contact and those will change the readings you see on the meter as compared to the reading you saw with the probes shorted together. And things like the pressure you use and how well you make contact will change the readings.

If basically comes down to that the meter is just trying to do the best it can at showing you what the actual resistance, if any, is between the two probes.

So when you have a short between the winding and the stator it might have some small amount of resistance that is caused by the "quality" of the contact at the probe and the point where the short is.

If I check for shorts and see a low resistance like 0.4 or 0.6 Ohms or so and if the number is dancing up and down a little, it still a short. The difference in the numbers is the "quality" of the contact points.

I have meter probes with interchangeable tips and I can change from needle point probes to clip on alligator clip probes. So when I start a winding I scrape the start end of the wire so I can clip one alligator clip on there.

As I complete the turns on each stator arm, I clip on to the scraped and can just touch the tip of the other probe to a bare spot on the stator (usually the ends of the hammer heads are bare of insulation and that is a good spot) and check for shorts before I move on.

Jack

Lots of goodies/tools/calculators for diy motor building/winding:
http://www.flugzeugseite.de.tf/


Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• diy motor tips • Drive Calculator •
• diy motor group • Cumulus MFC •

Try the diy electronics subforum Julian, plenty of ESC discussion there. I try to keep this diy motor tips & tricks thread lean and mean, every now and then I comb through it and remove posts. I will remove your post to, after a while.

Compilation of sensored and sensorless diy brushless controller designs:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140454

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• diy motor tips • Drive Calculator •
• diy motor group • Cumulus MFC •

There is the possibility to move the post?