FAQ cd-rom tricks

[simonjardine]

Is it possible to have a motor which weighs around 70 grams, has a low KV rating of 500? I cannot find anything out on the internet. Is it possible to build a motor like this? Weight can be 70 - 100 grams.

Power 150-220 watts. Most importantly it has to be 400 - 500kv.

Am i dreaming?

Simon

[SteveC68]

Originally Posted by simonjardine

Is it possible to have a motor which weighs around 70 grams, has a low KV rating of 500? I cannot find anything out on the internet. Is it possible to build a motor like this? Weight can be 70 - 100 grams.

Power 150-220 watts. Most importantly it has to be 400 - 500kv.

Am i dreaming?

Simon

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777998

This motor could take a few more turns of 22AWG and give you 500kv. Timocharis wound 18T of 22AWG and has pics that shows plenty of room for more winds.

[unattainium]

Originally Posted by olmod

You can line the existing bell with old transformer ( i ) lamination iron..a guilloutine helps in cutting the strip width to the depth of bell required, cut longer than needed, hand roll around something wich is about 4 mm smaller to allow for spring back, then start trimming the ends off as they will have a flat on them,when you get close to the inner diameter of your bell,lay on a flat metal surface,take fine flat file one with a smooth edge to go down on the metal surface,squeeze the ring together so you file both ends together on the draw back stroke.by trying you can get a push fit and a perfect butt join.I use a little loc tite black max to glue them in and spin them with a drill in a toilet roll tube to even out and get rid of excess loc tite. I place the first magnet over the but join, when finished placing the magnets,i place a single drop on each end of magnet and use the same spin technique.when fitting stator i use the black marker to show witness to any rubbing and grind accordingly. so i might not be able to use max' thickness magnets but the lamination iron flux ring helps too.

You don't need to use the lamination iron, which is high silicon and hard o handle. Any iron or steel will work well, even old tin cans. You could machine an inner ring from free machining steel like 12L14.

I make the flux rin a little smaller and mill or broach flats into it to hold each magnet and give the right air gap. This gives an optimal magnetic circuit by eliminating the air gap where the magnet meets the flux ring and also holds the magnets in position during assembly.

[unattainium]

Originally Posted by Prop-er

I'm using a 25A car fuse between ESC and battery. If the current rises too much, the fuse blows, saving my ESC and battery. Easy and cheap.

Prop-er

I use a Variac transformer for the initial power up of new systems. The voltage can be lowered and the inherent current limiting helps keep the smoke inside electronic parts. I bought an old General Radio Variac on Ebay.

A Variac is an adjustable autotransformer with 110 volts AC in and output adjusted to be lower or higher than 110 AC.

[Bilbobaker]

Tim is a very knowledgeable source for motor building performance.

[Ron van Sommeren]

Yep. That's why I reported him

I will remove these three messages later.
It's great to be a dictator

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

[advance]

I have a Scorpion S-4025-16 brushless outrunner motor. When you try to run the motor the rotor tries to spin with the out side of the motor case pulling the wires inside the case. I took the rear end plate off of the motor and the rotor stayed inside the case. How do I keep the end plate shaft housing to stay inside the rotor. Do you use some sort of epoxy, glue I did see some silocone around the tapered part of the housing where it slides into the rotor. HELP !!!! HELP !!!! HELP !!!!!!

[t_j_walker]

Originally Posted by advance

I have a Scorpion S-4025-16 brushless outrunner motor. When you try to run the motor the rotor tries to spin with the out side of the motor case pulling the wires inside the case. I took the rear end plate off of the motor and the rotor stayed inside the case. How do I keep the end plate shaft housing to stay inside the rotor. Do you use some sort of epoxy, glue I did see some silocone around the tapered part of the housing where it slides into the rotor. HELP !!!! HELP !!!! HELP !!!!!!

I would recommend contacting Innov8tive Designs and seeing if they will repair it for you.

From my limited experience, their stuff works well and they stand by it.

Tim

[advance]

Originally Posted by t_j_walker

I would recommend contacting Innov8tive Designs and seeing if they will repair it for you.

From my limited experience, their stuff works well and they stand by it.

Tim

Thanks for the help Tim, I was hoping to do some sort of repair myself.

[Ron van Sommeren]

Guys, I try to keep this thread lean and mean, I will remove your posts, and this one, in due time.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron