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Old Oct 28, 2006, 06:41 PM
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I have two sets of these. They have 3.5mm plugs on one end. it enables me to hook up any motor (see if it runs.. see which way it turns ect) without soldering to the motor's leads.. One set is for small motors.. One set is made from a cut up connection block from a large audio speaker. Saves me lots of time I use them all the time..
Jimbo
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Old Nov 01, 2006, 12:51 AM
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Eljimbo.

Thanks for tip. this is a clone of your idea.

Manuel V.
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Old Nov 01, 2006, 07:17 AM
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scource for flux ring materials

Originally Posted by mlh1961
The fork tube that attaches the forks to the frame, is a good one, most are a tad over 1 inch OD, and generally do not have a seam due to the gooseneck clamping inside the tube. Alot of the down tubes and main back tubes work, along with the seat posts. You can even use the bearing carrier where the pedals attach, and the head post if you need a larger ring.

You can generally find bikes for little or no money, either as junk or at a yard sale for a couple of bucks.

Mitch
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 01:18 PM
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homo ludens modellisticus
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When in a very tight winding situation, round the top of the wire to remove the burr. This will prevent it from scratching the insulation (shorts ).
Or, as Don (bz1mcr) put it:
Dull the end of the wire when sewing the last turns in.
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Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Dec 31, 2006 at 07:04 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2006, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bz1mcr
Site says it is retailed by NAPA and Murry's auto stores, that should pretty well cover the USA.


Is this the product that desolves CA?
"PB Penetrating Catalyst-Quickly breaks loose the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust and corrosion."

If you need to disolve ca just use acetone in a small jar. It works slick and is cheap
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Old Jan 29, 2007, 12:50 PM
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We filmed an experienced winder when he did a class for our club. Maybe it can help someone.

www.utahflyers.org

I also made a buzzer that attaches for the entire winding and alarms at the slightest short. I found a buzzer at Radio Shack that will handle the voltage of a 3 cell lipo and put a plug so I can just plug in one of the lipos I seem to have laying around. I hook one end of the buzzer lead to the wire being wound and the other to a bolt on which I mount the motor. I can wind accurately the first attempt almost every time.

I ground the end of a 3/8" X 3" bolt so it gently screws securely into the stator and will hold it while I wind. I covered it with electrical tape so I don't accidentally touch my alligator clips together getting false alarms.

We are winding hot 20 mm motors with 8 winds of 22 gauge wire for a ballistic 36 wing we fly. We have had speeds in excess of 80 mph on an outrunner single and higher than 100 mph on a double. I don't think outrunners were designed to do this but it sure is fun when they do.

Lee
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Last edited by Lee; Aug 20, 2007 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007, 08:16 PM
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Here is an idea that came to me contemplating sharp edges stators causing shorts,take the pack coat the face with hard setting epoxy and dip into a tray of miro balloons ,the micro's overlap the sharp edges ,it may take a couple of coats any overflow can be trimmed flush with the inside with a *11 blade.
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Old Feb 17, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Save weight on cdrom motor:
replace shaft with a stylus pen.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643984
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 01:03 PM
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Best tool i have found to pack windings is a tooth broken off a plastic fork. Jams thing more flatly than a bamboo skewer and is also wedge shaped. Method of discovery... forgot to bring skewer to work when I was going to wind a motor during break... and cheaper that CF flat rod.
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Old Apr 06, 2007, 06:56 AM
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A broken plastic prop blade can be shaped as desired and used for this purpose, it can also be shaped into an epoxy glue spreader, etc. The epoxy can be removed later on.

I have one such blade I have been using for years - certainly much longer than the broken prop
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Old Apr 28, 2007, 11:23 AM
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Heres my contribution to the cd-rom motor gallery: http://diymania.hv4all.com/motor%20c...%20cd%20motor/
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Old May 05, 2007, 07:34 AM
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Heres another cd-rom motor: http://diymania.hv4all.com/motor%20c...d-rom%20motor/

Note: i used the orig magnet ring because there are no magnets available that are small enough.
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Old Aug 04, 2007, 06:30 PM
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discontinued video.
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Old Aug 18, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Insulating Enamel for minor touch-ups and repairs / winding

I use Vanguard Insulating Enamel for repairs on stators, corners that appear to have a thin coating or chipped areas. Or wire that may have been scratched in order to prevent shorts. Also I use it for general insulation purposes anywhere in my electrics to prevent shorts. It's "class F" so it's good to 155 C (311 F) and it dries in about 10 - 15 minutes which is a plus. I usually apply it with a toothpick unless I need to coat a general area then I spray. If you do spray be sure to mask off you don't want coated first. I got mine at an electric motor repair shop. I asked them what they use and that's what they said they used. I believe there are other insulating coatings besides "Vanguard" also.

I have a question... Most winding diagrams on a 9 tooth stator show it being wound clockwise around a tooth and then skipping 2 teeth going in a clockwise direction and then winding the second tooth then skipping 2 more teeth then winding the third. If you wound clockwise around a tooth and then instead of going in a clockwise direction you travelled in a counterclockwise direction skipping 2 teeth winding the second tooth skipping 2 more teeth going counterclockwise then winding the third. Is there any implications for this? I ask this because this way the last winding on the tooth is "closed" vs being "open" if using the original method.
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Old Aug 20, 2007, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xduggy
....
I have a question... Most winding diagrams on a 9 tooth stator show it being wound clockwise around a tooth and then skipping 2 teeth going in a clockwise direction and then winding the second tooth then skipping 2 more teeth then winding the third.

If you wound clockwise around a tooth and then instead of going in a clockwise direction you travelled in a counterclockwise direction skipping 2 teeth winding the second tooth skipping 2 more teeth going counterclockwise then winding the third. Is there any implications for this? I ask this because this way the last winding on the tooth is "closed" vs being "open" if using the original method.
Both ways work fine.
Don
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