I have two sets of these. They have 3.5mm plugs on one end. it enables me to hook up any motor (see if it runs.. see which way it turns ect) without soldering to the motor's leads.. One set is for small motors.. One set is made from a cut up connection block from a large audio speaker. Saves me lots of time I use them all the time..
Jimbo

Eljimbo.

Thanks for tip. this is a clone of your idea.

Manuel V.

Originally Posted by mlh1961
The fork tube that attaches the forks to the frame, is a good one, most are a tad over 1 inch OD, and generally do not have a seam due to the gooseneck clamping inside the tube. Alot of the down tubes and main back tubes work, along with the seat posts. You can even use the bearing carrier where the pedals attach, and the head post if you need a larger ring.

You can generally find bikes for little or no money, either as junk or at a yard sale for a couple of bucks.

Mitch

Added, must read diy chapters:
http://www.gobrushless.com/kb/index.php?title=Articles

When in a very tight winding situation, round the top of the wire to remove the burr. This will prevent it from scratching the insulation (shorts ).
Or, as Don (bz1mcr) put it:
Dull the end of the wire when sewing the last turns in.

Originally Posted by bz1mcr

Site says it is retailed by NAPA and Murry's auto stores, that should pretty well cover the USA.


Is this the product that desolves CA?
"PB Penetrating Catalyst-Quickly breaks loose the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust and corrosion."

If you need to disolve ca just use acetone in a small jar. It works slick and is cheap

Added:
Motor construction articles by Christo v.d. Merwe, user 'skylar' here at rcgroups (nice motor colours )
www.bavaria-direct.co.za

We filmed an experienced winder when he did a class for our club. Maybe it can help someone.

www.utahflyers.org

I also made a buzzer that attaches for the entire winding and alarms at the slightest short. I found a buzzer at Radio Shack that will handle the voltage of a 3 cell lipo and put a plug so I can just plug in one of the lipos I seem to have laying around. I hook one end of the buzzer lead to the wire being wound and the other to a bolt on which I mount the motor. I can wind accurately the first attempt almost every time.

I ground the end of a 3/8" X 3" bolt so it gently screws securely into the stator and will hold it while I wind. I covered it with electrical tape so I don't accidentally touch my alligator clips together getting false alarms.

We are winding hot 20 mm motors with 8 winds of 22 gauge wire for a ballistic 36 wing we fly. We have had speeds in excess of 80 mph on an outrunner single and higher than 100 mph on a double. I don't think outrunners were designed to do this but it sure is fun when they do.

Lee

Here is an idea that came to me contemplating sharp edges stators causing shorts,take the pack coat the face with hard setting epoxy and dip into a tray of miro balloons ,the micro's overlap the sharp edges ,it may take a couple of coats any overflow can be trimmed flush with the inside with a *11 blade.

Save weight on cdrom motor:
replace shaft with a stylus pen.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643984

Best tool i have found to pack windings is a tooth broken off a plastic fork. Jams thing more flatly than a bamboo skewer and is also wedge shaped. Method of discovery... forgot to bring skewer to work when I was going to wind a motor during break... and cheaper that CF flat rod.

A broken plastic prop blade can be shaped as desired and used for this purpose, it can also be shaped into an epoxy glue spreader, etc. The epoxy can be removed later on.

I have one such blade I have been using for years - certainly much longer than the broken prop

Heres my contribution to the cd-rom motor gallery: http://diymania.hv4all.com/motor%20c...%20cd%20motor/

Heres another cd-rom motor: http://diymania.hv4all.com/motor%20c...d-rom%20motor/

Note: i used the orig magnet ring because there are no magnets available that are small enough.

discontinued video.