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Old Jul 20, 2005, 12:07 PM
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Here is a good tip, I accidentally came across last nite.

If you need a short 3mm shaft for the GB cans (with optionall set screw hub from Strongrcmotors.com), then a MPI replacement shaft works great. It already has a machined groove for the circlip and had a machined spot that is flattened as well
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Old Jul 20, 2005, 12:17 PM
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Best technique I've found for removing wire coating: ( I don't like scrapping wires...)

Use a bit of zinc flux. simply dab a very small amount onto your wire and submerge this into a glob of hot solder. Strips wire and tins it at the same time. Just don't drip any of it on your nice new windings

http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.as...8517&pgid=misc (zinc flux, near bottom of page)

Its fast, and removes every bit of the coating and you can visually inspect that the wire is tinned.
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Old Jul 21, 2005, 08:24 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
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near Nijmegen, Netherlands
Joined Feb 2001
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Never ever connect a brushless motor (whether in- our outrunner) directly to the battery, your motor will burn! Brushless motors MUST be operated with a brushless controller!

edit: removed stupid error
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Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Jul 21, 2005 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2005, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bz1mcr
Klong66,
MPI replacement shaft works great? Can you provide a link or picture?
Part no:

ACC3966-5 Shaft w/ E-clip for ACC3966, ACC3937

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-99.html

Turns out that the tail end of the shaft with the groove sticks out quite a bit. But i really do like the nice machined flat spot. This is where the gear with allen set screw would normally lock down. Picture of motor will be posted soon.
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Old Aug 19, 2005, 01:21 PM
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Memphis, TN
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I get lots of hookup wire scraps from old CPU power supplies. The wire are multi-colored.

1. These leads make great motor leads.
2. Strip the wires the sleeves make good insulators for the motor leads.
3. Standardize the color to the ESC and Windings for no guess hookup for motor direction. For example white phase 1(A), black phase 2(B), red phase 3(C) on my CC Phoenix 10 always at a glance gives CCW rotation.
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Last edited by beaver newby; Aug 19, 2005 at 04:44 PM. Reason: sp corrections
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Old Sep 04, 2005, 02:01 PM
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A broken APC "E" type prop makes a good, stiff tool to push wire in between and against the stator teeth. Very thin on its trailing edge with a semi-flat side and a curved side. Cut and sand back from the tip until you have what you need.
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Old Sep 05, 2005, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colbyweb
Hasn't anyone figured out how to make a winder yet? Even if it was manually powered I would like to make one. I just can't figure out how to make it work.
-Rick
Here is a manual winder that works great for me. If someone figures out how to replace busy fingers I'm all for it

This one is similar to others shown in these threads but with a digital counter that REALLY helps keep track of your winds.

Haven't done the file upload thing before. The file was a bit too large for one file so I broke it down into two files. I hope they show up in this message!

Good Luck,
Jim
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Old Sep 05, 2005, 08:34 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
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You may notice

in my origonal design posts 22 and 23 the hanging forcepts ,i use a piece of folded felt around the wire,this acts as a clutch as well as allowing me to take my hands away from the winding jig and stops any slackening of the wire ,very handy when you are called away it is especially good on wires awg 20 down to awg 36awg, by holding the forcepts up close to the felt a lot of wear and tear on the fingers is removed,the ratchet built into the handles are adjusted to give the best tension required for the wire,and because you dont lose sight of the way the wire is meeting the stator you can do some nice neat winds. cheers, Lez.
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Old Sep 05, 2005, 10:07 PM
Good Better Best quest.
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
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ok

after mounting the stator with bearing tube fitted its just a matter of twisting the end of the wire around a screw i have placed as an anchor point on the wooden frame,make sure the counter is turned back to zero and thread the wire into the first slot with your right hand holding the forcepts/haemostats,the left hand rotates the wheel on the left ,pushing the top edge away from you while you lay down the first 3 turns then with a chisel shaped knitting needle i slide the windings accross towards the hub then lay down more winds stopping occasionly to do any adjustments to the spacing till the required turns are completed, undo the start wire on the anchor point ,undo the locking screw so the stator can be rotated and skipping 2 teeth to the next tooth clockwise looking at the rear bearing tube side ,reset your counter and your off winding again, from this point on i think you should pick it up pretty quickly cheers. Lez.
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Old Nov 12, 2005, 11:13 PM
Tied to the whipping post
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Warm-Sunny-no-Wind, Az.
Joined Dec 2003
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I have had a motor pull out of one of these twice! Second time resulted in the need for a rewind. I had it very tight. I would suggest roughing it up a bit or some locktite.

Mike
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Old Nov 13, 2005, 07:52 PM
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United States, MI, Houghton Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerBird
I have had a motor pull out of one of these twice! Second time resulted in the need for a rewind. I had it very tight. I would suggest roughing it up a bit or some locktite.

Mike
Thanks for the report. It may save a few airplanes.
The KMS motor mount appears to have two "fins" that the motor holding screw pulls together. But, the fins are not even close to parallel and that would make it almost impossible to keep the clamping tight. Any vibration at all and I think it is likely to come loose. It looks like a faulty design to me.

Can the "fins" be bent to resolve this problem with out weakening them? That would depend on the type and quality of the Aluminum.
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 06:20 PM
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Trying to remove Ca? Forget those long soaks in acetone! Try some PB penetrating lube. AKA PB Blaster or PB Knockerloose.

While using Ca to attatch a bearing to a mount, I slipped and glued the bearing too. Since the bearing couldn't spin, I figured I would lube it and use it as a bushing until I got a replacement. A drop of this stuff and 30 seconds later I destroyed the motor when the bearing worked loose.

Since the can was shot, I dribbled some PB on one magnet to see what would happen. 30 minutes later, I tried prying the magnet out. Surprise! All of them came out with just a touch from a #11. The stuff had wicked around the whole can.

Acetone may still be handy for a solvent to get the PB off but rubbing alcohol will do. The PB must be totally removed or Ca is useless. Fortunately this is very easy, but remeber to wash your hands before handling any parts that will be Ca'd.

The PB doesn't smell lovely, but it sure beats anything I've used that can break down Ca. Luckily I haven't tried on skin yet, but I'm sure it will cause less (0) skin damage than acetone or debonder. It doesn't evaporate either, so no cover is needed to soak parts and fumes are not a problem.

These were not lighltly stuck magnets. They had been coated several times and spun in a dremel (thanks olmod) Even with the thick Ca that was several months old, it took just a few minutes to lift them out and no prying was needed.
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 08:17 PM
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Stockbridge, Georgia, United States
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www.pbblaster.com

Glenn
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 08:28 PM
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United States, MI, Houghton Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Depdog
Site says it is retailed by NAPA and Murry's auto stores, that should pretty well cover the USA.


Is this the product that desolves CA?
"PB Penetrating Catalyst-Quickly breaks loose the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust and corrosion."
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Last edited by bz1mcr; Nov 15, 2005 at 09:28 AM.
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Old Nov 14, 2005, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bz1mcr


Is this the product that desolves CA?
That's the stuff. Guess I should have put a link, but that's a pain from here. New magnets in the can now, and a somewhat different wind on the new stator. New thread to follow.
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