here are a couple of links that some may find usefull.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/9.html
cheers.

Stator insulation discussion:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373184

Removing windings from used motors.
Saw the 'winding heads' of, warm in oven and pull the windings from the slots. Pictures:
http://www.eschmidt.de/galerie/wicklung/index.htm

Here's a tip for this thread. Copy and Paste.

I highlight the info I think is helpful and then copy and paste to the Word Pad and when I'm done print it out.

Then I will have these tips handy when I start winding my first motors.

See ya,
Rod

Manuals
Most, if not all, motor kit suppliers have manuals on their sites, very useful e.g.
www.brushless.com (forum too)
www.aircraft-world.com
www.strongrcmotors.com/
www.e-foamies.com
Very good lrk manuals (different winding diagrams from cd-rom)
www.torcman.de -> English
www.high-torque.com

Personal homepages
http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/42232..._Brushless.htm
http://www.id.ethz.ch/people/allid_l...lectric/cdrom/ -> link "cd-rom conversion story"
http://homepages.enterprise.net/jayjay/cdrom_motors.htm (cd-rom conversion for helicopters)
http://haero.free.fr/maxx_motors/300-manual-2.bmp
http://www.btinternet.com/~michaelho...sion_final.jpg (step-by-step, one large picture)
http://users.compaqnet.be/retlaw (Dutch/Nederlands and English)

Cut a peice of light gauge allum' sheet drill ,debur and then roll fold as per drawing ,place over bearing tube onto stick mount clamp and drill cross holes and fasten with favourite screws bolts whatever,the lastly add a couple of dollops of epoxy in the holes on the top and let cure. PS those plastic nuts and bolts make good fasteners to the stick in a prang they can break away and save extra damage to your motor.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=150

I came up with this so that the up/down angle could be adjusted for the Hydrofoam boat?, but it could easily be adapted to any CF rod setup. Stack drill and stack sand the 2 "A" pieces and go to town! A single ty-rap will hold the motor in place.

Brad

I needed just a few thousandths of an inch more clearance between my stator and bell, and compressing the windings was not a practical option with my motor. So, I used a permanent flat file similar to the "Permagrit" variety that some of you may have to grind a brass thrust washer down to about 1/3 of its original thickness. I then placed it on the shaft with the ground end facing the bell, and the bevelled end toward the bearing. Results after reassembling the motor and testing it: no more bell/wire rubbing, and no loss in efficiency (which is what I got by "overspacing" with a full sized washer).

Like these, Button? http://www.strongrcmotors.com/thrust_washers.htm

Brad

I use a pair of side cutting fingernail clippers to cut the magnet wire, makes a very clean cut and will trim wires that have been soldered together as well.

Jason

Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.

When useing it for scraping, place notch over wire to be scraped,tilt blade slightly to the right and pull wire through with the left hand. It is good to burn the enamel with a match or a little gas torch before useing this methode.

I place the end of the wire for scraping on the edge of the workbench if the wire is already wound on the stator, so the wire gets forced through that littel notch and cleans up very nicely.

This is an awful lot of writing for such a simple action. But a good solder joint is most important for the performance of you motor.

Originally Posted by AeroNut45

Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.

Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM

Originally Posted by rysium

Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM

There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.

Originally Posted by AeroNut45

There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.

No, you didn't understand. There is no 'my way', or 'your way'. Your way and
my way is the same.
What I'm saying the other side of the knife (the one used to cut stuff) is very sharp, so by accident you can easy cut yourself. 'My way' means all that you wrote PLUS make the other side of blade dull for safety reasons.

RysiuM