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Old May 30, 2005, 08:21 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
10,535 Posts
Amp and resistance measurements

here are a couple of links that some may find usefull.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/9.html
cheers.
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Last edited by olmod; Sep 28, 2006 at 08:25 PM. Reason: dead link
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Old May 31, 2005, 10:08 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,937 Posts
Stator insulation discussion:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373184
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Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; May 31, 2005 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jun 01, 2005, 06:13 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,937 Posts
Removing windings from used motors.
Saw the 'winding heads' of, warm in oven and pull the windings from the slots. Pictures:
http://www.eschmidt.de/galerie/wicklung/index.htm
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Old Jun 01, 2005, 09:01 PM
hardhats required
rchotrod's Avatar
ks, usa
Joined Feb 2004
438 Posts
Here's a tip for this thread. Copy and Paste.

I highlight the info I think is helpful and then copy and paste to the Word Pad and when I'm done print it out.

Then I will have these tips handy when I start winding my first motors.

See ya,
Rod
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Old Jun 02, 2005, 06:34 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,937 Posts
Manuals
Most, if not all, motor kit suppliers have manuals on their sites, very useful e.g.
www.brushless.com (forum too)
www.aircraft-world.com
www.strongrcmotors.com/
www.e-foamies.com
Very good lrk manuals (different winding diagrams from cd-rom)
www.torcman.de -> English
www.high-torque.com
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Old Jun 02, 2005, 06:35 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,937 Posts
Personal homepages
http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/42232..._Brushless.htm
http://www.id.ethz.ch/people/allid_l...lectric/cdrom/ -> link "cd-rom conversion story"
http://homepages.enterprise.net/jayjay/cdrom_motors.htm (cd-rom conversion for helicopters)
http://haero.free.fr/maxx_motors/300-manual-2.bmp
http://www.btinternet.com/~michaelho...sion_final.jpg (step-by-step, one large picture)
http://users.compaqnet.be/retlaw (Dutch/Nederlands and English)
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Old Jun 26, 2005, 10:29 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
10,535 Posts
EZ stick mount

Cut a peice of light gauge allum' sheet drill ,debur and then roll fold as per drawing ,place over bearing tube onto stick mount clamp and drill cross holes and fasten with favourite screws bolts whatever,the lastly add a couple of dollops of epoxy in the holes on the top and let cure. PS those plastic nuts and bolts make good fasteners to the stick in a prang they can break away and save extra damage to your motor.
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Old Jun 26, 2005, 12:51 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Niagara Falls/Toronto area
Joined Dec 2003
4,536 Posts
EZ CF rod mount

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=150

I came up with this so that the up/down angle could be adjusted for the Hydrofoam boat?, but it could easily be adapted to any CF rod setup. Stack drill and stack sand the 2 "A" pieces and go to town! A single ty-rap will hold the motor in place.

Brad
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Old Jun 27, 2005, 11:57 AM
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button's Avatar
Nashville
Joined Apr 2004
297 Posts
I needed just a few thousandths of an inch more clearance between my stator and bell, and compressing the windings was not a practical option with my motor. So, I used a permanent flat file similar to the "Permagrit" variety that some of you may have to grind a brass thrust washer down to about 1/3 of its original thickness. I then placed it on the shaft with the ground end facing the bell, and the bevelled end toward the bearing. Results after reassembling the motor and testing it: no more bell/wire rubbing, and no loss in efficiency (which is what I got by "overspacing" with a full sized washer).
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Old Jun 27, 2005, 12:23 PM
Dismembered Member...
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Niagara Falls/Toronto area
Joined Dec 2003
4,536 Posts
Like these, Button? http://www.strongrcmotors.com/thrust_washers.htm

Brad
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Old Jul 14, 2005, 02:06 AM
Duh
crashawk's Avatar
grain valley mo, or about 25 minutes east of kansas city
Joined Jan 2004
599 Posts
I use a pair of side cutting fingernail clippers to cut the magnet wire, makes a very clean cut and will trim wires that have been soldered together as well.

Jason
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Old Jul 17, 2005, 04:33 AM
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AeroNut45's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Keysborough
Joined Jun 2004
2,107 Posts
Useing old scalpel blades to get the enamel off your winding wire

Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.

When useing it for scraping, place notch over wire to be scraped,tilt blade slightly to the right and pull wire through with the left hand. It is good to burn the enamel with a match or a little gas torch before useing this methode.

I place the end of the wire for scraping on the edge of the workbench if the wire is already wound on the stator, so the wire gets forced through that littel notch and cleans up very nicely.

This is an awful lot of writing for such a simple action. But a good solder joint is most important for the performance of you motor.
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Old Jul 17, 2005, 01:52 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
1,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroNut45
Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.
Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM
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Old Jul 17, 2005, 06:30 PM
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AeroNut45's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Keysborough
Joined Jun 2004
2,107 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM
There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.
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Old Jul 17, 2005, 07:23 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined Jun 2003
1,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroNut45
There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.
No, you didn't understand. There is no 'my way', or 'your way'. Your way and
my way is the same.
What I'm saying the other side of the knife (the one used to cut stuff) is very sharp, so by accident you can easy cut yourself. 'My way' means all that you wrote PLUS make the other side of blade dull for safety reasons.

RysiuM
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