I'd call it balanced, at 1.75 turns per tooth

Really, the winds are the same, just one end turn missing on each. I wouldn't think there would be a problem, unless you are approaching saturation, in which case one end would saturate sooner... And, as the number of turns goes up, the error minimizes in percentage.

I machine my bearing holders and only have about 1/2 inch or so sticking out behind my stator. There is a notched flange located about an 1/8 inch behind the stator. Behind that is the threads. 3/8-24 for 7mm od. bearings and 5/16-24 for 6mm od. bearings. The threads don't have anything to do with the bearings, that's just what fits inside of what. I use an electrical type hex nut (found on toggle switches or lamps) and re-tap them as required. (3/8-32 would work better, but I don't have that die) The flange mounts flush against a plywood firewall or tab and the nut is screwed on from the other side. A plywood key is glued into the firewall next to the hole and engages into the flange notch to prevent rotation while tightening the nut.

Wish I had a camera, then I wouldn't need a thousand words

Winding tools:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337381


Vriendelijke groeten Ron
• diy outrunner discussion group
• int. E fly-in & diy outrunner meet, June 26th, Nijmegen, the Netherlands

I snatched a Ditto with 18 teeth and had lots of 5x5x2mm neodyms, but none with 2.5mm thickness.

Some trials with stripes of a tin can (formerly filled with beans ) to fill the missing 0.5mm were unsuccessful, because I didn't get the stripe close enough to the bell.

With this methode I had success at last.



The lower image shows the motor with some test-windings.

quax

Old transformer laminations are uaually made of E and I shaped pieces
the I shaped ones are grain oriented silicon iron and are perfect to line alloy bells or use as packing behind magnets, the grain is in the correct direction wich makes it ideal. cheers.

I found a great way to strip the enamel off magnet wire. Use a hack saw blade with the wire between your thumb and the blade. Simply press gently and pull the wire through. Several passes and it's done. My blade is fine toothed, I do not know how a coarser tooth would work.
-Rick

Anyone tried one of these ?? http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide11-18.html

Try laying the wire on an aspirin and heating it with a soldering iron.
Stinky smoke but it removes the insulation!

Originally Posted by die fliedermaus

Try laying the wire on an aspirin and heating it with a soldering iron.
Stinky smoke but it removes the insulation!

the way i build ,i use a piece of fibre glass circuit board drlled with a hole saw and engraved with a dremel with holes for all the wires to poke through,after its glued to the bearing tube, i nip the wires off to within 1.5 mm of the circuit board then remove the enamel and flatten down and solder, see earlier post on my winding jig.
cheers.

I just recently tried to apply various compounds to the stator for insulation.
I just decided to try it as a long shot but it worked perfectly. First I applied
a nice coat of finger nail polish (hope she doesnt find out) and once dried
i went over the polish with thick CA. The finger nail polish helps keep the CA from going all over and looks just like a stator with an epoxy coating.

Originally Posted by grumman5277

and once dried
i went over the polish with thick CA.

CA is known to eat magnet wire's insulation over time. I would use only odorless (foam friendly) CA if it must be CA.
Why not do this with epoxy? 5minutes can be hard within less than hour. And for sure will be safe for wire.

RysiuM

Was never good at mixing epoxy. I did use the odorless thick CA. I dont think
this will harm the enamel on the wire though. The motor is in a gear box and
just gets warm . This is just during 5min static loads. Im trying to get about
16+ Oz out of this.

double 19mm 24 mag 6 pole 10 turn 26ga.
Realy unwinds with the gearing.
Swinging an 8x4.3 GWS at about 4amps. on 2 cells
going to go up a few sizes on the prop.

Don't know if this one has been mentioned, but I like to test my outrunners' magnets from time to time by putting a small, flat-blade screwdriver against each one. Once in a while, one magnet will have almost no attraction, i.e., it's been killed, prolly by overheating.

Kurt

Cutting magnets
www.powerditto.de
http://www.powerditto.de/Bautips.html
-> third picture

Vriendelijke groeten Ron van Sommeren
• e-motor building tips & tricks
• diy outrunner discussion group
• int. E fly-in & diy outrunner meet, August 28th, Nijmegen, the Netherlands