HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jun 17, 2004, 07:03 AM
....When pigs can fly
W@CC0's Avatar
Duffel - Belgium
Joined Jan 2004
1,637 Posts
indeed, my HD crashed also one time, and the only thing I actually lost was most of my operating system. all my pics, saved games and other important stuff were uploaded on a new disk with the kind of program and pc guru vintage is talking about. it costed me a new HD an a 6 pack of beer(for the PC guru, he couldn't work without

grtz
Tom
W@CC0 is offline Find More Posts by W@CC0
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 17, 2004, 10:12 AM
D W
I love you man.
D W's Avatar
United States, NY, Pelham
Joined Sep 2002
2,735 Posts
Glenn,
If you're doing the 'splinter' camo scheme you may want to consider lightening the lighter green a tad. I airbrushed the RLM colors over silver Solite and found that the two colors , black green and dark green, are almost indistinguishable. I know that scale modelers who know more than I routinely lighten the 'correct' colors to get a proper scale appearence on a small ship.

-David-
D W is offline Find More Posts by D W
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 10:26 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2003
17 Posts
Hi Guys;

I've also been slacking off due to work and home considerations.

But I've restarted this week with some considerable progress.

I hooked up the aileron linkages (.032' muisic wire) from the centrally mounted HS55 servo in the center wing. I used the x type servo arm. This seems to give some good differential aileron movement. I didn't use any sort of guide tubing for the aileron linkage; though that was sort of a last minute decision. I used Dubro micro control horns and micro bellcranks.

I've got a question.
When covering balsa sheeting with silkspan for finishing, do you adhere the perephery of the covering and then shrink it, like a frame covering? Or do you basically wallpaper it on?

Thanks, Rich
FDXmech is offline Find More Posts by FDXmech
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 12:35 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
Glenn,
If you're doing the 'splinter' camo scheme you may want to consider lightening the lighter green a tad. I airbrushed the RLM colors over silver Solite and found that the two colors , black green and dark green, are almost indistinguishable. I know that scale modelers who know more than I routinely lighten the 'correct' colors to get a proper scale appearence on a small ship.

-David-
Thanks for the info, David! I found that it looked good to me, since I airbrushed mine in just a couple of thin coats over Clearfilm and the white plastic detail parts. If you hold the wing up to light it still goes rather translucent, even through 2 painted layers. Looked comparable to my scale reference. and this isn't meant to be super-rivet-counting scale anyway. I am not at all displeased with my results.

Just curious, which paint did you use? I'm partial to the Polly Scale military acrylics myself. I did my as-yet-not-quite-finished BV-141 in splinter on doped tissue and their difference is very clear. I think I remember reading that the manufacturer 'tunes' the colors a bit to compensate for the scale effect. (shrug) Lemme hunt up a pic...

I'm using a little different paint scheme on my own Sturzkampfflugzeug anyway; remember, I built mine as a Ju-87B trop with the big squared off airbox. Besides, splinter camo is just so...run of the mill...

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Last edited by mu2freighter; Jun 17, 2004 at 12:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 12:46 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Ah, so, found the little beasty. See pic:

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 12:54 PM
....When pigs can fly
W@CC0's Avatar
Duffel - Belgium
Joined Jan 2004
1,637 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
Glenn,
If you're doing the 'splinter' camo scheme you may want to consider lightening the lighter green a tad. I airbrushed the RLM colors over silver Solite and found that the two colors , black green and dark green, are almost indistinguishable. I know that scale modelers who know more than I routinely lighten the 'correct' colors to get a proper scale appearence on a small ship.

-David-
the green of the stuka I posted pics of is a bit lighter than the original RLM (I hope your talking about RLM 70, 71). I think its maybe to light.

I bought a couple of little plastic modeller paints of the right RLM colors. painted a little plastik stuka the way I wanted the big one to be. then went to the lokal "do it yourself" store. they have a machine to mix your own color. I came out of the store with 4 half a liter cans of paint(two green, one yellow and one light blue)
now I have enough paint to paint a whole squadron of Stuka's. but it was cheaper as a load of those little plastic modeller paints
I saw the lady of the store thinking:"he's nuts if he is going to paint the doors and windows of his house in these colors" when she was managing the the computer to mix my paint
I'll post a pic of the 1/72 scale tomorrow

grtz tom
W@CC0 is offline Find More Posts by W@CC0
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 01:49 PM
D W
I love you man.
D W's Avatar
United States, NY, Pelham
Joined Sep 2002
2,735 Posts
Glenn, Tom,
Used tamiya Acrylics. RLM 70, 71. Got a chart off the net that tells which popular modelers paints match RLM colors.
Still the Stuka looks one shade of green. May be partly due to the silver under coat I lightly sprayed over.

That BV-141 is TOO COOL. Nice work! Thaty's the color my Stuka was SUPPOSED to be.

Rich,
Wallpaper it. Good article on covering with silkspan in the "How-Tos" section:
http://www.rcgroups.com/links/index.php?id=3540

Only thing I do different is to lay out tissue on a towel and spray it well with H2O. He dips his in sink but I can't see how he gets it out without it folding over an edge. Nearly impossible to get it straightened after this. At least that's been my experience with the light 00 grade.

-David-
D W is offline Find More Posts by D W
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 01:51 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by W@CC0
the green of the stuka I posted pics of is a bit lighter than the original RLM (I hope your talking about RLM 70, 71). I think its maybe to light.

grtz tom
Yes, I'm talking about those regarding the splinter camo. The Libyan colors I'm using are RLM 80, 79, and 78 (olive, sand yellow and sky blue...a bit darker than the usual light blue due, I assume, to the skies in that area being clearer and deeper blue than in more urban/European areas).

I am only willing to go so nuts on the colors since this is a stand off scale machine. I know lots of plastic modelers are happy with Polly Scale paints, and most of these people know way more about authentic finishes than I ever will, so I'm trusting that Polly Scale got it right.

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 01:56 PM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
12,233 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FDXmech
Hi Guys; I've got a question.
When covering balsa sheeting with silkspan for finishing, do you adhere the perephery of the covering and then shrink it, like a frame covering? Or do you basically wallpaper it on?

Thanks, Rich
Rich, Apply the silkspan moistened. Pull out the wrinkles, dope the perimeter, or dope completely. It may dry a hazy white, but will disappear with successive coats of dope. Use nitrate. Be sure the balsa is properly sealed to a smooth sanded finish before applying. Approx. 3 coats 50/50 dope thinner.

Steve
St. Martin is offline Find More Posts by St. Martin
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 02:51 PM
D W
I love you man.
D W's Avatar
United States, NY, Pelham
Joined Sep 2002
2,735 Posts
Glenn,
Here's that website that matches RLM colors to todays paints.
Polly Scale is there:
http://www.naplak.com/modeling/tips/color_guide.htm

Hope it helps,
-David-
D W is offline Find More Posts by D W
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 02:59 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
Glenn,
Here's that website that matches RLM colors to todays paints.
Polly Scale is there:
http://www.naplak.com/modeling/tips/color_guide.htm

Hope it helps,
-David-
That's a very handy chart to have, thanks!

The Polly Scale colors listed there for 78,79, and 80 are indeed the ones I used.

Mind, you, I finished all major painting last week...I'm doing final details, decals, and an overspray of Krylon matte clear this week and next, then R/C installation...then you should see the build thread. I will have the olive out again over the next day or two, as I'm peeling the cured liquid mask from the canopy framing today

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 03:04 PM
Registered User
JIMA's Avatar
New Boston, Texas, United States
Joined Jan 2003
2,390 Posts
Glenn,

From the experiences that I have had with my P-40, the numbers on the GWS site can be a little missleading. Static thrust will not predict what the airplane will do in the air. I would suggest the 1060HD prop to start with. The 1047 will give you the thrust, but not the airspeed. My P-40 needs speed to fly well as I am sure any low wing monoplane will need. Right now, I am flying it with a cut down 10x7 APC E prop.
and can barely maintain enough speed to fly. Granted I am a lot heavier than you are and I am using a C gear box. Motocalc says that the best prop for me is an APC 9x7.5 APC E prop


Jim
JIMA is offline Find More Posts by JIMA
Last edited by JIMA; Jun 17, 2004 at 03:10 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 03:08 PM
easily confused
mu2freighter's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennessee, United States
Joined Sep 2003
2,183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMA
Glenn,

From the experiences that I have had with my P-40, the numbers on the GWS site can be a little missleading. Static thrust will not predict what the airplane will do in the air. I would suggest the 1060HD prop to start with. The 1047 will give you the thrust, but not the airspeed. My P-40 needs speed to fly well as I am sure any low wing monoplane will need. Right now, I am flying it with a cut down 10x7 APC E prop.
and can barely maintain enough speed to fly.

Jim
OK, but how about that cool 9070 3 blader. Must have 3 blade prop on Stuka or lightning strikes you...

Glenn
mu2freighter is offline Find More Posts by mu2freighter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 03:16 PM
Registered User
JIMA's Avatar
New Boston, Texas, United States
Joined Jan 2003
2,390 Posts
Try it and see. But I am pretty sure that in order to get the speed to fly this baby you are going to want a prop with more pitch than the 47. The 3 blade may be just what you want. However, I dont know if the D gearing will spin it fast enough.

Jim
JIMA is offline Find More Posts by JIMA
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2004, 09:05 PM
Real men fly scale planes
Mad_Duk's Avatar
Port Richey/Tampa, Florida
Joined Aug 2003
157 Posts
Stuka Revival!

Hey kids!

I too was one of the many Stuka's being built last year, Mine was the only one that was to be a slimer........

I used some guillows wood and some not, clear monocote (ewww!)

Hitek Lazer-4 radio w/feather 55's

and the worst peice of junk power-plant ever made for a RC plane: a COX .074 queen-bee (w/carb,throttle, and muffler)

The plane weighed in at 14.5oz w/fuel and reciever batterys.

Due to a very bad decision to add washout at the "workshop" at my local field, 10min prior to maiden, the ailerons were put in a bind after the washout was put in, and she crashed real bad on maiden.

Hindsight being what it is: the ailerons were linked and i used the outer and middle ones together, which, was NOT needed! had i just went with the outer ones only, she may well may be still flying today.

I since have switched to Novel power GWS electrics.

Current projects on the board:

A.A.Lidberg 40"ws FW190/Ta152

"Big" Guillows BF109 "Zwilling" conversion,

I have bought a comet Stuka on Ebay....to replace the dead one!

a Dumas Fi156 Storch

I got a guillows B29 as a gift recently

and a DPC Albatross for lightweight conversion.



the next Stuka will be N.Eastern front "snow-camo" one.

great to hear some of the updates from some of the guys I was getting advise from when mine was still "up and coming" instead of "dead and gone"!
LOL

Cheers!
Paul "Mad-Duk" Mapes
in sunny Florida
Mad_Duk is offline Find More Posts by Mad_Duk
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Berg Suppliers? Where did they all go? Valid8r Radios 4 Oct 09, 2005 12:09 PM
Hey Im Mad, Where Did The Zagnutz Girl Go? Summer Foamies (Kits) 3 Oct 03, 2003 03:49 PM
Where did officeshops.com go? Wiseguy Vendor Talk 3 Jul 30, 2003 10:39 PM
Where did my thread go??? WilliamSettle Sport Planes 10 Jan 07, 2002 02:01 AM