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What Steve said. My 335 is still my most-used charger, even for NiMH cells. Sometimes my Infinity 2 stays home when the 335 goes with me to the field.
The display shows voltage normally, current while you hold the 'select' button. So to set charge current, you press 'start' for a second, then hold down the 'select' button and turn the charge rate knob until the current you desire is displayed. Then release. As to what is the correct charge rate, there's plenty of info around here.. ..a |
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my apologies if i have mislead. dunno if the 320 is 'old', HL sold me one 9 months ago, and still recommend it as part of the sukhoi package. horrible charger.
I read in another thread someone having similar false peaking problems with the 335, aparently they are more different than alike. If it's a usable charger, great. otoh, I would have preferred to drop the $200 on a really good charger first things first. other than your tx, it's the most important tool you need for electric r/c. |
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Spokane WA
Joined Aug 2000
185 Posts
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CG335
Jim,
In case you are now harboring some doubt about your 335, please rest assured that you have in your possession the finest charger available for under $100.00. I've had mine now for two years. It is in almost constant use. I even use it to field charge the batteries for my cordless electric drill. You'll be in electric flight a long time before you'll need to upgrade. In addition to the information Andy provided: (I don't have the instruction sheet with me, so I'll do this from memory) The charger wants a 12 to 13.5 volt source with 10 amp capability. I use a computer power supply rated at 6 amps that works well. A 12 volt car battery is ideal. It is reverse polarity protected. A red light on the panel comes on if you hook it up backwards. There is also a panel light that changes color, from green toward red if the source voltage is low for the battery you are trying to charge. If you look carefully at the panel you will find three different outputs available. 1) 4 to 24 cells provides constant charging current, which is set by the current setting knob. This is the output most commonly used. It is also the one that is displayed on the LCD panel. Initally the voltage shown is the battery voltage at the time you connect it. Press the start button (the one on the left) to begin the charge. Press the select button to display the charge current (and set the current to the rate desired with the current knob). After the charger detects the charging peak it changes to a trickle charge and the green light on the panel starts to blink. This output also has a timer that kicks in after about an hour if it hasn't detected a peak charge. This will happen when you set the charging current too low to complete the charge in an hour or less. 2) 4 cells. I don't remember the details (I haven't used it yet) but I believe it's low current for charging a receiver pack over several hours. The charge is not monitored and does not peak. 3) 1 cell. This is normally used to charge single cell glow plug batteries. I don't use it either, but I believe it does peak detect. In all cases, red is positive and black is negative. The cute aluminum Hitech logo on top is actually a heat sink. It can get very warm, or even hot, when charging large battery packs. Hope this will help. I'll try to find my instructions to see if there's more you should know. You'll find some useful information at the following link: www.hitecrcd.com/Catalog/Chargers/cg335.html Good luck DT edit: added link to Hitec site |
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Here's a link to your charger manual. It's in the Customer service area of hitec's webpage.
http://www.hitecrcd.com/ServSup/Manuals/330335.pdf mw |
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