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Old May 20, 2004, 09:03 PM
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Cleveland
Joined Nov 2002
40 Posts
Fuel filling valve location

Hello,

I am very new to RC Gas engines.

I am installing a "Kwik Fill" fueling valve that goes on the fuel line between the gas tank and the engine.

The engine is a OS .46 AX, with a remote needle valve.

It turns out just about the only place I can fit the valve is on the line that goes between the needle valve and the carburetor, and not the longer line that goes from the tank to the needle valve.

Is it a bad idea to put the valve between this short line between the needle valve and the carb? Or will this work OK?

Thanks,

XTO
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Old May 20, 2004, 09:05 PM
LowbudgetFlyer
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Morristown, TN
Joined Mar 2004
271 Posts
I put my in the back near the fuel tank.

Kevin
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Old May 20, 2004, 09:21 PM
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Banjul
Joined Jan 2001
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Is this what you are talking about?
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Old May 20, 2004, 09:29 PM
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Banjul
Joined Jan 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTheOwl
Is it a bad idea to put the valve between this short line between the needle valve and the carb? Or will this work OK?
If I understand you correctly, Do Not connect the Kwik Fill between the needle-valve and the carb. If you did, it would by-pass the needle-valve completely.

Place the Kwik Fill between the fuel tank and the needle-valve input nipple . . . . . just think "between the tank and the engine".

The Kwik Fill can be placed almost anywhere on the plane that you wish.

Hope this helps.

Viper
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Last edited by Viper Pilot; May 20, 2004 at 09:32 PM.
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Old May 20, 2004, 09:38 PM
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Orangevale California
Joined Mar 2004
44 Posts
I don't use fuel filler valves myself, but I can imagine that the restriction of the needle valve would cause a problem. I have always filled through the feed line from the tank and the needle. To do this you pull the line off the tank side of the needle and fill through there. Locate the line that runs from the tank to the muffler and pull it off at the muffler. When the tank becomes full, fuel will come out of the fuel line that went to the muffler. You can make a catch can out of a spare fuel tank if you want to catch the spilled fuel.
By the way, I would like to make a small correction to your post. The OS .46AX is a glow fuel engine, not gas. It is a common mistake, but there is a difference.

Have fun with your new engine.
Gabe
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Old May 20, 2004, 10:36 PM
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Cleveland
Joined Nov 2002
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Viper: Yes, that link is exactly what I have. Also, I am not sure what you mean by bypassing the needle valve. The order I was thinking of hooking things up was:

Tank -- Needle Valve -- Fill Valve -- Carb. Fuel would flow through the needle valve both when filling and when going to the engine while running, so the needle valve would not be bypassed.

Gabe: Do you mean that the needle valve would restrict the flow of fuel while filling? (And yes, I shouldn't have said gas, I meant nitromethane/methanol; I'm not THAT new to engines. )

I know the ideal placement is between the tank and the needle valve input, but it really is gonna be a pain to do this. It would fit oh-so-well between the needle-valve output and the carb.

Thanks for the replies, anyone else have a reason why this location would be a bad idea?

Thanks again,

xto
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Old May 21, 2004, 04:34 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2004
148 Posts
fuel valve

you certainly DO NOT want to put the valve between the Needle valve & the carb .LOL getting fuel into the tank! it will take forever to fill. it belongs mounted either on the plane or make a aluminum bracket & mount it close to the remote needle.(not a big fan of those things either)fuel line should be kept as short as you can without putting stress on lines. Some of these units are more trouble than they are worth. certainly it gives you two more places for air leaks.
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Old May 21, 2004, 07:27 PM
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Lytton Springs, Texas
Joined Feb 2004
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Going back to your initial post, is this a fully cowled aircraft, or can you easily get at the fuel line going to the engine (remote needle location)?
If you can get to the tank line fairly easily, gabenelson's reply is your best bet.
While the "quick fill" valves are a nice addition, sometimes "straight and simple" is the best bet. Even if it is a cowled engine, it can't take much more than, what, 2 minutes to remove 4 screws, slide (tilt, whatever) it out of the way, fuel up using the line from tank to engine, and re-attach the cowling.(?)

dano
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Old May 21, 2004, 09:57 PM
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Joined May 2004
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refueling

Instead of removing the cowl ,use a pair of hemostats to reach in & remove the lines. you can get at all but the worst installations pretty easy. you can get these at medical suppy outlets , micro mark tools & sometimes flea markets
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Old May 22, 2004, 01:28 AM
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Lytton Springs, Texas
Joined Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETIGER05
Instead of removing the cowl ,use a pair of hemostats to reach in & remove the lines. you can get at all but the worst installations pretty easy. you can get these at medical suppy outlets , micro mark tools & sometimes flea markets
I agree, but have seen too many folks over aggressive with the hemostats and actually making punctures or splits in the fuel line. That is why I suggested a 4 screw removal of being able to shift the cowling to get at the inlet fuel line without special tools.

Even with hemostats, you need to be able to reach in, disconnect the feed line (without cutting or punturing), HOLD it in a position to allow a fueling (filling) hook-up, then re-connect to engine when done. Why bother with that when I can do the above? The prop and cowling don't have to be completely removed, the cowling only shifted to one side or the other to allow getting at (by hand) the fuel inlet line. You might be suprised at how fast I can remove and re-install 4 #6 screws!

Just my .02...no harm, no foul intended...

dano
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Old May 22, 2004, 11:46 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2004
148 Posts
hemostats

Unless you are truely ham hamhanded I have rarely had a problem tearing or cutting line with these things.whole idea is to remove the line not squash it& there are serationed catches on the finger end you can preset . It does take some time to remove the prop, screws(which wear holes a little more each time and seem to get lost in the grass!) wrestle the cowl off (scale plane ) just to refuel each time esp if you fly a lot each time out --Noooooooooooo THANK YOU!
I have seen people create home made refuelers with piece of 1/8 hard plywood & two sections of brass tubing. works pretty well.
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Old May 23, 2004, 10:22 AM
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Banjul
Joined Jan 2001
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I dunno about all youse guys!!! Sounds like a whole lotta work to fill your tank!!!

I know the K.I.S.S. syndrome, but this filler works very well, and you can forget about rempoving the cowl, or fiddling with the ol' hemostats.

Try this filler - Sullivan

Instead of spending 20-30 minutes fueling, you can spend it flying.

Viper
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Old May 23, 2004, 11:35 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2004
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filling & hemostats

well, I guess when you get a scale airplane, you'll understand ."fooling " with the hemostats is not a big deal . they are , as far as Im concerned ,indispensable & very handy when working around models. I have seen SOME of these units leak after a while & it does give you two more places for air to leak into the system. LOL with the remote needle valve. usually these things are not set up very well by the designers as far as entry piont alignment for the fuel lines. The KISS principle has a lot going for it you bet.
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Old May 24, 2004, 11:36 AM
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Banjul
Joined Jan 2001
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I've used the Sullivan for two seasons now, on three planes (all cowled), without a single leak.

I'm fully aware of the many other products that DO leak, but this one is a winner!!!

VP
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Old May 24, 2004, 04:03 PM
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Cooper City, Fl
Joined Jun 2003
318 Posts
why not just use a fuel dot?...much easier to deal with..and cheaper.
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