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Old Mar 29, 2004, 05:39 PM
ProBro #261
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Coogee, Australia
Joined Aug 2003
610 Posts
V2 cool

I like the film, thats crazy


Matt
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 07:03 PM
GW
Shula Who??
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Guntersville, AL
Joined Aug 2003
932 Posts
Great info there Griz.
I would like to see more of that mount. I am installing a /26 wind in a 36" version now.

The axi spin-up is a small bit slower than a GB/Razor, but not by much. The noise loss is worth it to me right now.

OF course I will not hold you to one engine, because, as you know, I have a favorite motor of the day, and it changes frequently.


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Old Mar 29, 2004, 08:33 PM
Registered User
Vancouver Island
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438 Posts
Hey mc71 and GW.
A couple of pics.
This 1st one shows the film packaging in case you want to track it down...
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 08:40 PM
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Vancouver Island
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This second one shows the mount...Well actually, it shows you one of the 3" long 0.125" CF tubes...Repeat 4x...I selected small screws that just barely split the tube if you tried to insert them before the tube was captured in the mounting plate hole. Once the tube is inserted in the mounting plate hole it prevents the tube from splitting. I did use a little thin CA on the tube/mounting plate joint area for peace of mind...

Hope this helps.

edit: Note that this system is new to me and has not been really torture tested yet. It may prove to be fragile???

Cheers,
Griz
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Last edited by grizzlyone; Mar 29, 2004 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 09:43 PM
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Johns Island, SC, USA
Joined Jan 2004
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I use the MP Jet 25/35. Its a little heavy, but the 4:1 gearbox is very durable, and at $50, you can't beat it—or ruin it...I've tried.
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Clifton, VA
Joined Mar 2003
87 Posts
Yakety-Yak;Axi power!

grizz -
Nice planes! Nice work. A few Qs'.
Flying stab? Details please!

I have the 2212/26 as well and want to put it in the 36" yak. You mention the wing loading vs the 39 - does it really make that much of a diff?

I'm currently flying the 3DX with a razor 350 and now with the 2015/4100. There is some diff since Himax is almost 1oz heavier.
11.5 oz with 350 and close to 12.5 with 4100.

I plan to use Hobby Lobby's Axi mount sys they show for the ShockFlyers 2208/34 on their site. It's a plywood disk monted to the "+". It's cut into the foam to hide the motor like yours. Your mount looks good as well. Might be best because of torque from larger motor.

I'm about to cut the depron from the templates for the 36. What do u think? Go for the 39 or 40".

gw - nice designs! thanks keep 'em coming.
Pat
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Johns Island, SC, USA
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One-piece, or Two-piece fuse....which is better.
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Clifton, VA
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Wrong picture

I meant to show this one...........

Pat
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Old Mar 29, 2004, 11:29 PM
GW
Shula Who??
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Guntersville, AL
Joined Aug 2003
932 Posts
Capn_Marlin
It really is a toss up the 2 piece takes longer to build but ties things together better.
the 1 piece is quick and most like the ease of constuction.

They fly the same IMHO.

A request:

to Anyone I sent the original 1 piece fuse 40" Yak full sheet pdf file to.

COuld you email me a copy of it back to me . I have 3 copies of it and they all read corrupted now. I guess it did not like all the mods I was making to it.


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Last edited by gw-ezone; Mar 29, 2004 at 11:40 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 12:09 AM
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Vancouver Island
Joined Nov 2003
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Pat,

You'll be fine with the 36". You could always increase the wing chord and span a tad to help with the loading. Why not add 3/4" to the wing chord and 2" to the span. You'll up your area a bunch and it shouldn't hurt anything.

I went to 39" as much as anything to optimize utilization of the Depron Sheet. My next 39" wing will have a slightly longer chord.
I love the way these things float and they can only float better with a lower wing loading...

I took some pics of the FF Stab set-up for you...This one is hinged on the original hinge line as per the plans. You might move the hinge line forward 1/2"...I've got a little flutter going on at high speed. I may be able to get rid of some of the flutter by using less stretchy pull-pull line. I haven't had a chance to experiment yet...I think the decreased aero-balance with a slightly advanced hinge line will help. Too late to try it on this one...

The FF STab bearing is 4mm CF Tube in a blue nylon outer pushrod tube of indeterminate (Sulivan?) origin. It's a nice slip fit over the CF Tube. I drilled out a straight servo horn to 4mm for the control horn and once everything was glued and lined up, pinned the servo horn/control horn to the CF tube with piece of a T-pin.
The pics will help.

-Make the full length groove for the CF before you cut the elevator halves from the fixed stab portion.
-Cut off the moving portions and trim 1/8" off the moving portions to give you clearance between the fixed and moving portions.
-Enlarge the groove in the fixed stab portion to house the bearing tube. I left the bearing tube long and trimmed it after I glued it. Slip the CF inside the bearing tube while you are gluing the bearing tube to the fixed portion of the stab. This will keep it aligned.
-Cut the bearing tube flush with the outer edges of the fixed stab.
-Cut a slot in the fixed stab for the servo/control arm long enough that the arm will fit in the slot lengthwise. It's nice to be able to leave the control arm loose and able to fold "into" the stab until final airframe assembly is complete.
-Assemble all the pieces, don't forget the control horn, and glue the CF tube into the groove in the moving portions.
-Later, rotate the elevators to vertical and the control arm to horizontal and drill a 3/64" hole through the control arm collar and CF tube and use a T-pin or similar to pin the horn to the tube. A drop of CA will fix things nicely. Don't (voice of experience here) get CA in the bearing tube...

If you have any questions post 'em.

Cheers,
Griz
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 12:10 AM
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Vancouver Island
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Another pic

A little closer
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 12:11 AM
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Vancouver Island
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Last One

Another angle...
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Nashville, TN
Joined Jun 2003
267 Posts
Nice Flying Stab Griz !!

While I have been away from the foamies getting my nitro guzzling birds ready for the new Pro Bro season, I see you guys have been hard at work improving the designs.

As soon as I get all my planes squared away for the comming flying season, I'm going to get back to the foamies, and it looks like I have a lot of new ideas to pick from here. Great work guys !


Alfster
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 12:42 AM
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Vancouver Island
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438 Posts
Hey Alfster,
Welcome home! Thanks for the comp.
I just finished gearing up a slimer myself...
Little bit different for me. The local club pylon races a little 0.15 sized one design and I thought I'd give it a try. I'm going to have to really work on flying straight and turning left...I wonder if flaperon mixing will get me round the turns faster....
Shame of the whole deal is that I finally had to strip my Su-Do-Khoi for gear...
Su-Do wing is in good shape. Fuse had been repaired too many times between the TE and the stab. I've got a chunk of 1/2" CF tube that'll end up intimately associated with the wing at some point. Too many projects...
Later
Griz
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Old Mar 30, 2004, 01:12 AM
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Nashville, TN
Joined Jun 2003
267 Posts
Pylon Racing sounds like fun, but my eyes can't keep up with the fast planes anymore.... I had a Patriot that only flew 115mph, but it was getting to be a handfull to watch. I do good to keep up with a slow 3D plane.

If you find yourself behind in the races, just yank the little racer up, do a bit of 3D flying, get their attention away from the race, then bust a move toward the finish line.....

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