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Old Mar 22, 2014, 11:22 AM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
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"I used piano wire push rods through housing. I greased up the wire where it exits and put a nice bead of silicon over the ends. In the morning when it was dry I broke them free by moving the push rods. Now I have a push rod seal. "

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If this is what you are referring to then maybe I can help.
This is a Steven Neil build. (U-812) Steve builds models for a living. He has a lot of little tricks to get things to work. My GW boat is one of his old hull kits.

He used piano wire for push rod. He put a little bit of grease on the wire to keep the Silicone glue (bath tub caulking) from bonding permanently. After applying, he let it set for a day or two to completely cure. Then he carefully twisted back and forth to break the Silicone glue from the wire leaving a very tight fit. (seal) YOu might use sand paper on the end of the exit tube to make sure the Silicone has a good bond to the tube.

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Old Mar 22, 2014, 11:25 AM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
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While building these seals, Do Not hook either end of the push rod so it is free to twist to break the Silicone loose.

ALso leave the servo end straight until the seals are completed. You can Z bend the rudder and planes end. Then after making the seals, bend the servo end to the length you need. You can remove the servo arm to slip on the Z bend.
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Old Mar 22, 2014, 07:43 PM
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Australia, ACT, Canberra
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Thank you very much!

I have one more question about his sub before I order the parts. His rudder had some screw on hook. Do you know what this is?

I managed to salvage some parts from an old ares trainer I had. I know the 2.4ghz receiver will be useless under water, but I am only using it to test the parts before purchasing a $150 system .
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Old Mar 22, 2014, 09:09 PM
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The rudder has a post that comes up through a tube in the hull. What you are seeing is the control horn that is mounted on top of the post that the control rod connects to so the servo can turn the rudder.

In the photo, there are two things that need control rods. The rudder and the stern planes.

The item you circled is the rudder control horn.

The other items is the piece coming up through the slot in the bottom of the hull, just forward of the rudder post. If you look closely, you will see a small hole near the top of that for the other control rod.

The area these two control are in, are in free flooding and do not require any seals.
================
In this photo you can see a little clearer how it goes together.
The long rod will connect to the rudder and the short rod to the stern planes.



Looking farther in to the build thread there is another boat being built. More photos at post #39.

Here's a photo showing the control rods connected.

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Old Mar 31, 2014, 03:48 AM
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South Korea, Gyeonggi-do, Ansan-si
Joined Jan 2006
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mr_president_jk, have you seen this conversion thread on the C.C. Lee 1/150 U-581 ?

It is basically the same submarine (same method of construction and it dives) but is of course a Type VII-C. It is slightly less accurate than the IX-B but I think it could be altered to resemble a Type II. Anyway, you can use the same techniques as the OP to convert your IX-B.

Different versions of the same U-581 just for nostalgia. Once produced by C.C. Lee of course, there's also a version by Yamada, Doyusha, and of course Academy. They're all identical and they merely shared the molds.









As far as the servo rod in a sleeve goes, those can be either a plastic sleeve with a rigid wire pushrod inside or a with a flexible cable inside (examples):

http://shop.dubro.com/p/micro-push-rod-system-qty-pkg-2
http://shop.dubro.com/p/engine-contr...mbly-qty-pkg-1
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