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Old Feb 14, 2014, 11:23 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
331 Posts
Those were awesome Vids ! Thank you very much.

Sooooo, tonight, I was trying to figure out some things on the sub. And so, I ended up disassembling it a bit more and a bit more.

Ya. Have no Fear, I did watch and clock repair for 10 years, so Im no slouch when it comes to taking things apart and putting them together again.

However, there will be some retro-fitting going on here.

There are two bolts that hold the motor firm in to the transfer case. One of those is loose, and will have to be epoxied back into place.

And then there is the set screw for the dorsal rudder. Its loose and it is a micro allen bolt. So that means I have to find the allen key that will take care of that. Then the off set angle is odd, so I will most likely have to drill a hole in the aft section of the hull to get to the set screw.

And then there is the paint. EEESH!! Ok Im all for a quick and easy paint job, but this was done with a brush. I figure some high grit wet dry to smooth it out followed by some spray paint to make it look decent.

On the note of finish, I still need to locate some decals so I can put all the white markings on the boat in the proper places. I want to giver her the SSN 664 Sea Devil registry.

On a happy note, I picked up some silicone oil, and some clear silicone today. The oil is for the gaskets and such, and the clear is for the leaks around the screws and what have you.

Can anyone identify the transfer case? Im wondering in case I have to replace it at some point.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 12:06 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
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Do not worry about the finish yet. Get it working, bump it into a couple of things, get a few newbie scrapes, then go ahead and finish it.
Contact information on the way.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 12:33 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
331 Posts
OH absolutely its getting run. And I'm sure I will bump into things. And yes, the finish is second to the function. But those screws!!!

Don't get me wrong. I'm happier than a pig in slop to own this sub. And I totally respect the man who built it. Now I just want to do him proud with what I still kinda consider his model.

Next thing I need to purchase is silicone grease or paste. I forgot that today while I was at Lowes.

The new RX is a bit larger than the old one. So I have to mod the electronics bay a touch. But that's ok. Then get that bolt re-fixed into the motor mount and seal the point in the WTC where the bolt passes through. Then the Set Screw for the rudder, but as long as I can get a extra tiny allen key that shouldn't be a worry either. I just don't like having to put yet another hole in the hull. But I'll make up for it by removing the screws and patching those holes.

I gotta tell you though, this is pretty exciting. Its kind of puzzle like. But after the puzzle I get to play with it!!
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 04:48 AM
Man from Atlantis
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London
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Can anyone identify the transfer case?

If you're referring to the end cap/motor housing, that looks like a bespoke item custom made by the previous owner. The original unit would have had a polyurethane resin cap with a uniform taper. I expect the owner had his reasons for making it that way, and to be honest it looks well made and should not need to be replaced. If something has come unglued just get some decent slow cure epoxy and bond it back in. Don't go looking to fix things that aren't broken.

Regarding refinishing the boat, what Tom said- get it sorted mechanically and electrically first. When it comes to repainting I would look at a chemical stripper (make sure it's compatible with resins), as it will get all the paint off fairly easily without rubbing away the scribed detail, which would be easy to do with abrasives.

Then a light rub down with 400 grit to key the hull, prime and spot putty, rub down with 600 grit then add top coats.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 10:27 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
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Definatly, the transfer case will remain. I was just curious because I want it to remain as is, but I am concerned if the case were to break or become brittle due to age. Then I would want to get the same part to replace it with.

I like the chemical stripper idea. I have some 400 wet dry already. And yes the holes have to be filled and smoothed. Also I need to secure the WTC supports in place. So all in all, a fun set of challenges.

Off to lowes after work to pick up some silicone gel. Then this evening I think I will probably dremel the electronics box to fit the new receiver. Place the antenna wire outside the WTC and seal the hole. Then I will put it all back together and do a seal test again.This time I will be able to static dive it in the tub, so I can test the ballast chamber as well.

SIDE NOTE: Ive got a 10yr old son who flies planes with me, and he thinks this is really cool. He was very surprised when I told him I would let him drive it in the pool at work. So now he's even more excited since its not a "dad only" rc toy. LoL
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 10:47 AM
Man from Atlantis
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Well as it's clear I would hazard a guess that it was made from either acrylic or polycarbonate/lexan. Both tend to be very stable plastics, e.g. they don't tend to degrade with time provided they don't come into contact with certain chemicals e.g. certain solvents and industrial cleaners which will craze them.

Unless there are obvious signs of distress in the item, then i would use it as is.

You might want to look at some the citrus based paint strippers. Caustic soda works well for many paints, but it's nasty stuff, whereas the citrus strippers are safe and work just as well. http://www.wmbarr.com/citristrip/default.aspx
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 11:28 AM
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United States, NY, Rochester
Joined Apr 2008
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Regarding the brushed on paint job, this may possibly be a previous owner's method of simulating a "weathered" look. I can't really tell from your photos if this might be the case, or how well the effect was achieved. Submarines generally don't retain their smooth, shiny look for long once they have left the dockyard and spent some time at sea. Of course, you may prefer that fresh-out-of-the-yard look for your boat, and this is perfectly fine too. Above all, do what pleases you and have fun with it!
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 11:45 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
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I kinda want it to be able to be mistaken for a static model when its at the house. Some place where when people come over and see it they go " Oh thats a nice model" and not say to my wife, "ah your husband plays with toys." LoL

but really I just want to do it all justice. Have it work well, look nice and provide years of fun and entertainment. And have people who observe it be impressed by it as well.
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 12:51 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Do NOT run the antennae out a hole. One, it is fine in the wtc. Two - water finds a way and it will travel up the antenna to your receiver maybe not at first, but in time. David Merriman has a story about that. It will be a slow cancer that in time will give you fits. If you must have it out of the WTC then put a thread or nut that you would cut your antenna and solder one part outside and the other on a washer that is bolted down inside.
My Skipjack just has the antenna wadded up in the WTC (as a radio guy I can see you flinching already), but I have as good a reception with that as I have with one run out the hull.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 01:40 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
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Ok, I see your point on the antenna. The way it was built there was a small hole, and the antenna was put out that hole and had a glob of silicone over it. I guess I could put the antenna inside the Electronics suite and just plug the hole with a screw and some silicone. Im really concerned with the SWR though. Mainly though I just plan on using this in a small swimming pool at the Hotel at the truck stop where my shop is at.

Tonight I began working on the WTC. I took out gaskets, and re-lubed them. I took out screws and reset them with clear silicone made for aquariums.

I fit the new RX unit into the electronics suite. And repaired the loose motor bolt with some JB weld.

Hopefully tomorrow, I should be able to reassemble some stuff and do a quick water test. We shall see.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 08:52 AM
Man from Atlantis
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London
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I run antennas internally. I'm sure you lose quite a bit of range doing that, however what you will find when you run the boat, is that you keep it very close to shore anyway, especially submerged, because otherwise you can't see what is going on.

With model subs, clarity and depth of a pool/pond is far more important than area, unless of course you're building very large boats.

If you want to run the aerial externally, just make sure you put a blob of epoxy over the end of the aerial, so water doesn't wick down between the wire and insulation- this is what tends to cause the problems some experience.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 11:39 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Up in his area there are some very clear waters. He could run it at Pyramid Lake, but the salmon there would dwarf his sub (maybe even think of it as a snack) although I remember it being pretty clear water, but the one of clearest lakes is Lake Tahoe - someday I want to run my subs there. There is Lake Spaulding (also a glacier fed lake) and ..... I think I am coveting Ronin055 location.....sigh must repent.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 12:09 PM
Man from Atlantis
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London
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Well I would advise somewhere that runs no deeper than your ability to hold your breath to reach the bottom for the first few runs at the very least. Avoid lakes with weed too.

The cylinder, in theory, should be good down to about a 100 feet in depth (1/8" thick walled polycarbonate tubing), but I wouldn't like to test that to destruction , and at those depths recovery would be a diver job.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 12:39 PM
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Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
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The gear reduction you to which you are referring was a scratch built unit by Merriman. He is the person who designed and built that ballast system. It is a fairly old cylinder, but one of the best made. Hold on to it.
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 12:51 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
331 Posts
NO need to covet my locations. They are for everyone. LoL

And I plan on mainly running the sub in the pool at work. So its all good to go there. I can watch for bubbles, play with the kids, and be able to recover it in the event of any catastrophic events.

So I may just seal the WTC and leave the antenna on the inside after all. Although the radio man in me wants it on the outside, because of reception as well as keeping it original.

Well time will tell. I want to dive test it today. So I guess I should make a decision.
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