SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 09, 2014, 09:48 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
452 Posts
Yes. It will recognize loss of radio signal and put the sub into a pre-configured mode (like blow the ballast tanks).
tchalfant is offline Find More Posts by tchalfant
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 09, 2014, 10:07 PM
Registered User
Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
277 Posts
That is a second release Thor Design SSN 637 Sturgeon class SSN.
ThorDesign is offline Find More Posts by ThorDesign
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 09, 2014, 11:21 PM
Registered User
California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
378 Posts
Matt, do you still have available your manual for the second release 688?
Cliff Hanger aka Ralph --- SSBN 598
Cliff Hanger is online now Find More Posts by Cliff Hanger
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 12:32 AM
Registered User
Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
277 Posts
Ralph,

Sorry, I do not. Those were sent along with the molds when I sold the kit off. However, they were almost identical to the digital instructions for the PERMIT kit which I still sell. I do have an all new SSN 637 Sturgeon class kit due out the end of 2014. Whoever owned that boat before placed an LA prop on the kit. It is much too large for that boat and should be replaced with the proper screw! It will not handle correctly with that oversize screw on her.

I would not replace that WTC that boat came with. That version of the WTC 3.0 was one of the best made.

Leave it as is...go to ebay and buy a used 75 Mhz transmitter (cheap). Get the proper crystal and see how everything works. No need to re-invent the wheel here. As Andy said earlier, this appears to have been assembled by someone who knew what they were doing.

You may download the PERMIT instructions for free in .pdf format here:

http://www.precisionpattern.biz/subs...structions.pdf
ThorDesign is offline Find More Posts by ThorDesign
Last edited by ThorDesign; Feb 10, 2014 at 12:38 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 01:05 AM
Registered User
Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
899 Posts
Lucky bloke
redboat219 is online now Find More Posts by redboat219
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:09 AM
Man from Atlantis
Sub culture's Avatar
London
Joined Nov 2003
907 Posts
WTC stands for Water Tight Cylinder (or Compartment).

Your background in CB repair may be an advantage when looking for a radio. 72mhz sets tend to be cheaper than 75mhz, so you can probably retune one.
Sub culture is offline Find More Posts by Sub culture
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:36 AM
Registered User
Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
899 Posts
You also need to put on a new waterproof boot on the power switch on the front bulkhead.
redboat219 is online now Find More Posts by redboat219
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 10:45 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
387 Posts
Thanks for the intel guys.

The switch on the front, is actually a slider. That knob actually pulls out or pushes in to activate the electronics. Personally I would have put a water tight toggle, but thats me not the guy who built it. Im struggeling with wether or not ill replace that. Because honestly, I want to keep this original.

And now that Ive said I want to keep her original, I have to go sideways from that and ask if anyone runs Lipo in subs. My friend at the hobby shop seems to think its a bad idea. And I want to keep it original.

Oh ya, and two more questions.

How do I use the front schrader valve to equalize the pressure?

And where do I acquire an adapter to put the duster air into the copper cylinder?

Thanks guys.
Ronin055 is offline Find More Posts by Ronin055
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 11:20 AM
Registered User
California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
378 Posts
Front Schrader valve.

When you install the End caps on the cylinders it produces a slight internal pressure. This pressure pushes on the end caps and can if there is not a tight fit push the caps out. After installing the end caps, just push on the Schrader valve and release the internal pressure. It just takes a second or two and the inside pressure will equal the outside pressure securing the end caps from being pushed out.
Cliff Hanger is online now Find More Posts by Cliff Hanger
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 12:31 PM
Semi-Official Tinkerer
Subdave's Avatar
Rochester NY
Joined Mar 2005
832 Posts
This is also a good way to check that everything is sealed up.
Give it a minute or so and then listen after you push the schrader in.
You should hear a short. Psssssssssss!
If not you may have a leak. Dave.
Subdave is offline Find More Posts by Subdave
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 02:08 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
387 Posts
Awesome! You see that didn't even occur to me. I was thinking that I had to attach a small hand pump or something to it and suck a little pressure out of it to make it seal. I didn't even think about just regulating pressure.

Man this is getting closer and closer in my mind to being understood.

And some good news. I called my friend at the hobby shop, and he thinks he has the original radio laying around for the sub. hes not sure where, but he thinks he has it, or at least something in the dungeon that will work with it.

I feel like a little kid !!
Ronin055 is offline Find More Posts by Ronin055
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:17 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
452 Posts
If you do not hear any sound when you put on the end cap or suspect a leak,
Remove the stem from the Schrader valve.
Name: Skipjack_build_322.jpg
Views: 25
Size: 105.6 KB
Description:
Name: Skipjack_build_323.jpg
Views: 25
Size: 171.3 KB
Description:
Attach a vinyl hose
Name: Skipjack_build_324.jpg
Views: 24
Size: 83.4 KB
Description:
and you can suck some air out using your mouth. Seal the hose with a clamp and look for water coming in anywhere. Sometimes it is hard to see. You can blow air in, BUT If you blow air in, hold on to the end caps to keep them from popping off. Look for any air bubbles escaping.
tchalfant is offline Find More Posts by tchalfant
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 06:09 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
387 Posts
Thank you, that is a helpful tip. I was just thinking that I was going to unhook the linkage to the rudder and dive plane, and do a leak test in the sink or tub tonight.
Ronin055 is offline Find More Posts by Ronin055
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 08:00 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
452 Posts
As redboat219 recommended, the boot over your toggle switch looks a little frail. When you replace the boot (if needed, I can not tell for certain, is it completely missing?), I like RTV rubber to seal the new boot at the bottom to the end cap, but a good marine silicon would work too. You can get the replacement boot at hardware stores or even Walmart. Do not test your system if the rubber is cracked, missing, or torn, water will get in through that.
Also before you test get some silicon grease on the seals, o-rings, and pushrods. You have beautiful sub there made by Matt and as Matt said a perfect wtc (water tight container or cylinder) to complement your sub. Do not rush and with care you will have a great sub. Really want to see you succeed.
tchalfant is offline Find More Posts by tchalfant
Last edited by tchalfant; Feb 10, 2014 at 08:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 10, 2014, 09:04 PM
Registered User
California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
378 Posts
Ronin055,

I'm sure you are picking up on the very steep learning curve. Most is common sense once you are exposed to what is happening and what has to happen.

After one sub you will understand the terminology and some of the different system associated with working subs. There are several. All different. All work just fine.

Looking at the list of responders, I will tell you without hesitation that some of the very best and some who pioneered these functional submarine systems are here.

I can only imagine that other pros in this hobby are watching. They are here as well. Just haven't had anything to add yet. It is a rather a small group of people who commit to submarine models and they all want to see new to subs be successful.

There are lots of answer once the questions are asked.

Keep going. Help is at hand if you needed it.
Ralph SSBN --- 598 (aka Cliff Hanger)
Cliff Hanger is online now Find More Posts by Cliff Hanger
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion I just inherited a plane and I am undecided on what to do. osanties Beginner Training Area (Fuel) 22 Jan 16, 2014 07:46 PM
Help! "Inherited parts" REDAZRAEL Foamies (Scratchbuilt) 2 Sep 23, 2013 06:21 PM
Discussion ThorDesign 688i for sale War Fish Submarines 3 Jul 10, 2009 08:55 AM
Discussion inherited a T-rex brickwoodward Mini Helis 7 Jun 14, 2006 08:06 PM
Help with Inherited ASP 80 4-stroke tomfowler Engines 11 Jun 26, 2004 07:47 PM