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Cosmic Wind

Looking for something that delivers a little more punch? Look no further than the Cosmic Wind.

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Specifications:
  • Wingspan: 47 in.
  • Wing Area: 403 sq. in.
  • Length: 38 in.
  • Flying Weight: 86 oz.
  • Wing Loading: 30.7 oz/sq. ft.
  • Motor: Jeti Phasor 45-3
  • ESC: Jeti Jes 40-3P Opto
  • Prop: Graupner CAM 11x8
  • Cells: 2x 7-cell packs, 1900mAh SCR
  • Manufacturer: Graupner
  • Available from: Hobby Lobby Int., Inc.

Introduction

The Graupner Cosmic Wind is modeled after a Formula 1 race plane of the same name. I've been unable to find much history on the full-scale version of this plane. If I had to say it looked like something, it would be a sleek P-51 Mustang. No matter what its history is or what it resembles, it definitely looks fast! If anyone has more information on the history of his plane, please send it my way.
When I first saw this model on Hobby Lobby's web site, I was very serious about getting this model for myself. I had just completed converting my gas Great Planes Fun One to electric using the same Jeti 45-3 brushless motor that is recommended for this kit. I was amazed at the performance of my electric Fun One and just couldn't imagine how well the Cosmic Wind would fly being 20 ounces lighter flying the same system.

Kit Contents

The kit was packaged very well to keep its contents safe and as a result, all of the components were received without damage. The contents of the kit include a one-piece foam core balsa sheeted wing and horizontal stabilizer, a beautifully gel-coated fiberglass fuselage, a pre-shaped rudder, assorted light ply sheets containing all of the pre-cut bulkheads, motor mount, servo tray, etc., a parts kit, clear canopy, plastic aileron servo covers, a sheet of stick on decals, the building instructions, and plans.
The parts kit contains a nice set of heavy-duty pre-bent landing gear, a set of 2 3/4" lightweight wheels, pushrods, control horns, ball-links, quick-links, canopy latch, nylon wing hold-down bolts, and other miscellaneous hardware.

For the review, Hobby Lobby also provided all of the items needed to build and fly the model with the exception of the transmitter, receiver, receiver battery, "Y" harness, and paint for the fuselage. You also need two 18" servo extensions for the aileron servos. All of the provided items are those recommended by Hobby Lobby for use with the Graupner Cosmic Wind.
The list of provided items are: a Jeti Phasor 45-3 brushless motor, a Jeti JES 40-P Opto brushless motor controller, a Graupner 60mm spinner, two 7-cell 1900mAh SCR battery packs, four HS-81 servos, a Graupner CAM 11x8 propeller, and an accessories kit. The accessories kit includes four sets of Sermos battery connectors, two rolls of red Oracover covering, a 1-ounce package of 5-minute epoxy, and 1-ounce of some other adhesive called Pattex Stabilit Express, which is called for in the building instructions.

Construction

The construction of the model was fairly easy but I did find there were a few things that just didn't seem to fit right and required some minor tweaking. Most of the instructions and the text on the plans are in German. One sheet of instructions is provided in English. It does take a little time to figure out exactly what they are trying to tell you to do since you need to read the English instructions, reference the English parts list, and reference the German plans and photo sheets. Because of this, I would say the builder should have moderate building skills. Later in the review, I will discuss a modification to the battery-mounting scheme. If you're building the model with Jeti 45-3 motor, you most likely will be required to fabricate a new mount, but it is fairly straightforward.
There are two strangely named adhesives called for in the instructions. The first is called "UHU plus schnelifest". I believe this is nothing more than epoxy. At least that is what I used in its place. The other adhesive is called "Stabilit Express". It is a two-part adhesive, one part being a thick liquid, and the other being a white powder. As listed on Hobby Lobby's web site, this adhesive is used to provide a structural bond between dissimilar materials like plastic or metal to fiberglass. I tried it out some scrap material just to see how it worked. It definitely was strong, both physically and in odor. I decided not to use it and substituted epoxy in its place.

Wing

The wing is an absolute work of art. The balsa sheeting work on this wing is incredible. I couldn't image being able to do this kind of work with such a high quality of workmanship. The best part is that most of the work on the wing is already done for you.
The servo wells are precut, as are the servo lead routing paths and exits. If you choose not to remove the servo mounting tabs, a small amount of cutting will be required. The servos are not installed until the wing was covered.
Landing gear hard points are pre-routed, but they did require a small amount of cutting and sanding to get the gear into them. I pre-drilled the pilot holes in the wing for the landing gear mounting straps and temporarily mounted the landing gear to check the fit.
The ailerons and hinges are built in as part of the wing. Two of the three inside edges of the ailerons are either cut or routed out. The wingtip end of each aileron was cut free. A small amount of trimming was also required on the root side to free up each aileron.
On the bottom side of the wing, a clearance slot is routed along the leading edge of the aileron to allow the aileron to move down. The depth of the slot is almost down to the aileron hinge, which resides just below the balsa sheeting on the top side of the wing. There was a small amount of balsa remaining on the bottom side of hinge within this slot. A small flat-bladed screwdriver having the same width as the routed slot was used carefully to remove the remaining balsa without damaging the hinge. Initially the hinges were fairly stiff. Repeatedly moving the ailerons back and forth past the range of motion that they would normally undergo made the hinges much less stiff.
I covered the wing starting at the bottom, doing one-half at a time including the aileron. The covering along the sides and leading edge of the aileron was cut free before I covered the top of the wing. When covering the top half of the wing, I ran the iron along the entire wing except the aileron. The covering along the sides of the aileron was cut and the aileron was held at its furthest downward position before applying the iron to the aileron. The covering didn't seem to add stiffness to the hinge.
With the wing covered, the covering was removed from the servo wells, servo lead exit, landing gear hard points, and front wing hold down dowel holes. Servo extensions are required for the aileron servos. Given that there is no room for the plastic servo connectors in the provided wire path, the extensions must be soldered onto servo lead. On each extension, the end opposite the receiver was cut off and routed through the wing before soldering it to the servo lead. After each servo had been connected to a radio to check the neutral point, it was glued into the wing with epoxy.
The aileron pushrods are made up of two quick-links, an M2-20 bolt, and an aluminum control horn. The head of the M2-20 bolt is cut off and threaded into both quick-links. A hole is drilled into the bottom of the aileron, close to the leading edge without going through the top of the aileron. As a unit, the pushrod is attached to the servo and the control horn is glued into place. I needed to cut 1/8th to 3/16th of an inch off the bottom of the aluminum control horn before gluing it into place because the pushrod had too much of an angle on it. I wanted to get the pushrod a little more parallel to the wing surface, the way the plans showed it. The pushrod was adjusted to get neutral aileron with a centered servo and the aileron deflection was adjusted to the recommended 5-8 mm. A dual rate deflection was set to approximately 10-12mm.

The servo covers were cut out using scissors and an Exacto blade. A small amount of trimming was required along the trailing edge of the cover to match the taper of the wing. These covers are side dependent so take note when you are trimming them. Once fitted, I painted them using Top Flite LustreKote Missile Red paint. The color match to the Red Oracover is almost exact. There is a small shade of difference, but it is only mildly noticeable in certain lighting conditions. Once painted, the servo covers were attached with clear tape on three sides.

A small amount of sanding was required on the front wing hold-down dowels to get them to bottom out in the wing. These were not glued into place until the mating holes in the fuselage were drilled. The landing gear was mounted into place and the wheels were secured using the supplied collars. The placement of the landing gear straps allowed some motion of the gear on the end opposite the wheels when the wheels where pushed forward and backward. A little epoxy was used at that end to secure it.

Fuselage

Before I begin discussing the work on the fuselage, let me state that I completed the building as designed, but I had to modify the bulkhead and battery-mounting scheme due to CG balancing and battery support problems. As I am discussing the building, I will be showing the as designed method first and then have a section dedicated to the modifications. If you are building this model, I recommend you read all of this review before you continue building to help you decide which method you need to use.
The fuselage required most of the work. Prior to working within the fuselage, I recommend that you sand the inside using some 120 grit sand paper. You will be required to put your hand inside and there are quite a few interior fiberglass burrs. You will have to put your hand in to do this and will probably get a few burrs in your hand to begin with, but this initial sanding will significantly reduce the number of burrs that you do get.
First up is the motor mounting plate, which is constructed using two pieces of light-ply, laminated together with epoxy. Four indentations on the mounting plate mark where the motor mounting screws are drilled. As I found out, the Jeti motor doesn't have equally spaced mounting holes. One set of holes match the indentations on the mount, but others are slightly closer together. Drilling all four holes where indicated. Slotting one set of them will allow all four mounting bolts to be used.
There was some excess fiberglass material on the inside of the fuselage at the attachment point for the motor mounting plate. This was cleaned up with a Dremel tool with a fiberglass-cutting disk using the surface of the disk as a sanding wheel. The motor mounting plate, with the motor and spinner attached were used to check the alignment of the mount before I glued it into place. The spinner end plate is the same diameter as the front of the fuselage, which makes it easy to see if the mount is off center and/or not parallel to the front of the fuselage, by looking at the spinner's alignment to the fuselage. The motor mounting plate was glued in with epoxy (photo below on left).

The front wing hold down support is built by laminating two pre-cut pieces of light ply with epoxy. A small amount of sanding at the ends was needed to get the support into position just in front of the bottom fuselage opening without putting excessive pressure on the fuselage sides (causing it to bulge). I wasn't able to get the support's rear face to fit tightly against the fiberglass, but I kept it flat against the bottom of the fuselage when gluing into place with epoxy. Later, I filled the gap between the support and the fiberglass at the front fuselage opening using micro-balloons filler and epoxy (photo above on right).
At the rear bottom fuselage opening, the rear wing hold down support, pushrod outer sheath support, and servo mounting plate were epoxied into place as indicated on the plans (photo below on left). It wasn't until much later that I discovered that the holes pre-drilled in the pushrod outer sheath support were too far toward the outside of the fuselage. This made for an indirect pushrod path from the servo to the sheath entrance causing binding. I would advise drilling new holes 1/2 inch further toward the inside of the support (photo below on right). I managed to get around it by bending the pushrods, but drilling new holes is the better solution.

The pushrod outer sheaths were routed through the support and fuselage exits and glued into place with epoxy. I found it necessary to glue some balsa blocks on the inside of the fuselage to provide some stress relief at the fuselage exits and allow the pushrods to exit straight out (photo below on left). Access for gluing is provided through the horizontal stabilizer cutouts in the fuselage (photo below on right).

There are two bulkheads, which provide some stiffening to the fuselage. They also provide a means to mount the flight battery. The forward bulkhead has a cooling cutout and a cutout for the battery. There are two options for the rear bulkhead, depending on whether you want to install and remove the battery from the wing side (bottom) or the canopy side (top) of the fuselage. For the number of cells used in this configuration (14-cells), the battery must be accessed from the bottom. In both configurations, the rear bulkhead has a plywood strap to hold the battery in place (2 photos below on left). Once the bulkheads were built, they were epoxied into place as shown on the plans (photo below on right).

The battery configuration shown in the plans was a single 12-cell double-stick pack. Since I wanted to build the model as designed, I ended up soldering the two 7-cell packs into one 14-cell pack where the cells are soldered side by side. This involved removing the shrink-wrap, removing the battery leads, soldering a strap to connect one pack to the other, soldering new battery leads on, and shrink-wrapping the new pack. I also had to trim the front bulkhead battery hole slightly for clearance.
Prior to gluing the horizontal stabilizer into the fuselage, three things had to be done first. The elevator is built as part of the stab and is partially cut along the hinge line for you. However, it still must be cut at the ends to free it completely. The one-piece elevator is then cut into two pieces and shaped as shown in the plans. Next, the stab is slid in place and the 90-degree angle between the stab and vertical fin is checked. Finally, the alignment of the stabilizer to the fuselage was adjusted per the plans and marked to allow re-alignment if needed prior to the glue setting. Gluing the stab in place was a bit tricky. I found that if I pushed the fuselage in slightly on each side while applying the epoxy and then allowed it to return to its normal state, the fuselage movement forced some epoxy on the inside surface of the fuselage. Running my finger along the glue joint before it hardened made a decent filet (photo below on left). For this activity, 5-minute epoxy is pretty quick setting, so do one side at a time. Your top priority is getting the alignment correct.

The rudder requires a little sanding to reduce its width to match that of the fin. A pre-bent tailskid was provided in the kit, but I occasionally fly from a paved surface and prefer a tail wheel. If you only fly from grass, the provided tailskid should suffice. I purchased a DuBro .40 sized tail wheel kit and bent it to match the tailskid (photo above on right). The collar on the tail wheel is only there because I forgot to take it off before I bent it. Once satisfied with the new tail wheel shape, I epoxied it into the precut slot using the two light-ply pieces for support (photo below on left). Finally, the two hinge slots in both the rudder and fin were cut out and the rudder installed for a trial fit (photo below on right). If you have an extra hinge lying around, I would advise adding a third hinge for additional rudder strength especially if you have a rough field or tend to make a lot of single point tail landings.

The wing alignment was adjusted per the instructions. Once satisfied with the alignment, the location of the front wing hold-down dowel holes were marked and drilled. The dowels were glued into the wing with epoxy and the wing was placed on the fuselage. The alignment was rechecked and the rear wing hold-down hole locations were marked and drilled. Blind nuts and nylon bolts are used for the rear hold-down. The supplied blind nuts were longer than the thickness of the plywood plate but some slotted spacers made from scrap plywood solved the problem.
The horizontal stabilizer was covered and then masked. This left a 1/8" of covering unmasked near the fuselage. The fuselage was prepared for painting by lightly sanding and wiping it down with alcohol. Again, Top Flite LustreKote was used to paint the fuselage.
Holes were drilled in the elevator halves and rudder for the control horns approximately where indicated on the plans. I moved them slightly to better align them with the pushrods. Once the elevator and rudder were covered, the control horns were epoxied into place. I recommend replacing the supplied rudder control horn with one similar to the one shown in the lower right photo. I ended up breaking the original one off when the tail wheel brushed against the ground while moving the fuselage from one place to another. It didn't seem like it took much to break it. As shown below, the supplied ball link was used but this seemed to give the rudder a little play due to the ball link slightly twisting the control arm. It is up to you if you want to replace the ball-link with a standard quick-link. I felt it would be fine for flight and it tends to have a "servo saver" kind of quality to it. The elevator control arms were left as is. The elevators were hinged using covering.

The rudder and elevator pushrods are made using an outer plastic sheath, a hollow inner plastic rod, and thin music wire to give the inner rod some rigidity. Setscrew style pushrod connectors are used on the servos (photo above on right) at one end of the pushrod and threaded couplers are glued to the plastic rod at the control surface end. For the rudder, both the plastic rod and music wire are routed through the pushrod connector and the setscrew clamps both of them down. This works just fine.
The elevator actually has a separate pushrod for each elevator half. Since both plastic rods cannot fit into the servo pushrod connector, the plastic rod is stripped back an inch or so on both of them to expose the music wire which is then clamped into the pushrod connector. This is could lead to a disaster. If the elevator pushrods are not glued correctly, it is possible that when the elevator servo pulls on the music wire it will slip inside of the plastic rod. If the threaded coupler is only glued to the plastic rod, then the servo will move, the music wire will move, the plastic rod stays, and the elevator doesn't move. A solution is to trim back the plastic rod by 1/4 inch before gluing the threaded coupler on. This results in both the plastic rod and music wire having a mechanical bond to the threaded coupler. I didn't discover this until I was adjusting the elevator travel, so I just put some glue on the servo side where the plastic rod is stripped back before going to the servo pushrod connector. I would recommend gluing the plastic rod and music wire at both ends. A better solution may be to leave the music wire 1/4 to 1/2" long and bend it back over plastic rod before gluing it into the threaded coupler. The threaded couplers are slotted but I don't know if the pushrod would fit if it were done this way.
One thing I did on this model that I've never actually done before was to put in a pilot. The pilot, cockpit floor, headrest, and canopy supports are purely optional. Doing this extra work not only adds a nice touch to the model but also allows for a removable access hatch. If you don't want to bother, the canopy can be glued directly to the fuselage. Three plywood pieces make up the cockpit floor, the front, and the rear canopy support. Two pieces of plywood and a length of aluminum tube cut into three pieces are used to make the headrest. The pilot did not come with the kit and I don't believe the specific one called out in the instructions is available from Hobby Lobby. I just went to my local hobby shop and picked one out. I know that I didn't choose a pilot that was scale to the plane, but that was all I could find at the time. Overall, I think it came out fine.

To finish the canopy, the canopy latch was glued into place and a matching hole was drilled in the rear canopy support for the latch plunger (photo below on left). The canopy was cut to fit and glued into placed. A little masking and painting completed the task (photo below on right).

As I thought I was getting closer to finish, the receiver, receiver battery, flight battery, and speed controller were mounted approximately where the plans indicated. With the model setup in its flight configuration, I checked the balance (CG) per the plans. The plans specify that the CG should be 65-70mm from the leading edge. I checked it at 65mm, but the model was very tail heavy. I moved the flight battery further forward until it hit the back of the motor. I moved the receiver battery as far forward as I could. In the end, I could not get it any better than a slightly tail heavy condition at 65mm. The other thing I didn't care for was the flight battery configuration, now that the battery was positioned forward all the way. Only six of the fourteen cells were supported. The remainders were "floating in the breeze." It is possible the model would have flown fine since it technically was in balance within the 65-70mm specification. I just didn't want to risk a tail-heavy condition with this model. It has been my experience that a tail-heavy condition on a short moment (short tail) plane like this is usually catastrophic.

I believe the CG problem lies in that the motors this model was designed for were heavier than the Jeti and/or the battery configuration are different. It was originally designed for the Ultra 1300-8 brushed motor or the Ultra 300/30-2 brushless motor. Whatever the reason, something needed to change and it wasn't going to be the motor. I came up with an alternative battery-mounting scheme that uses two separate 7-cell packs instead. There may be other ways to do this, but I believe this new mount only adds a little weight. It is relatively simple, even though it takes a little trial and error fitting. It also allows for motor removal, and most importantly will allow for easy CG adjustments via battery placement while keeping the battery secure when the Cosmic Wind is screaming around the sky.

Battery Mounting Modifications

The first thing I needed to do was remove the front bulkhead. If you are doing this modification as you are building the model, cut the front bulkhead (item 9) as shown (photo below on left) and glue it into place where indicated in the plans. In my case, I just cut out the material after it was glued into the fuselage. It probably isn't absolutely necessary that you put the modified bulkhead in, but it helps to stiffen the fuselage sides a little.

Five items needed to be fabricated to complete the battery mount. The front mount required three of those five items: two hard-points and a plywood plate (two photos above on right). The hard-points were made using some 1/4" basswood and on one of them, I used a threaded hardwood block. (I just had one and wanted to use it.) The hard-point, without the hardwood block used two pieces of 1/4" basswood laminated together to allow for a larger gluing area and to allow for more threads when it was tapped. This same method could be used for both hard-points. Both hard-points were threaded for a 1/4-20 bolt since I had plenty 1/4-20 nylon bolts and that was the only tap I had. You could use woodscrews or metal/nylon bolts with blind nuts or anything else you have on hand to attach the plywood plate to the hard-points as long as you make it removable. The height of the hard-points ended up to be approximately 1/2-3/4". Leave them on the high side to begin with since you will need to take material away to fit them.

The front plate is made using 3/32" plywood. The dimensions are shown in the drawing above. The measurements are what I ended up with, but they may require a little tweaking to get the fit right. Once I did some initial fitting on each hard-point to get the general fuselage shape, I assembled all three pieces of the front mount and repeatedly installed, removed, and sanded the hard-points until I got the mount to fit nicely about 1 1/4" behind the motor. Measuring from the front top fuselage opening, the plywood plate was about 7 3/4" inside the fuselage (photo below on left). Once satisfied with the fit, the hard-points were glued in place with epoxy (photo below on right).

The rear mount attaches to the rear bulkhead in the same place where the battery strap is mounted. Actually, the battery strap can be used make the rear battery mount. I just used some 3/32" plywood and added basswood so I could tap it for a 1/4-20 nylon bolt (photo below). I originally installed the bottom-battery-access rear bulkhead and therefore kept the battery installation/removal from the bottom of the fuselage. If you are doing this modification as you are building and you are building the removable canopy, I suggest that you go with the alternate rear bulkhead so that the battery can be removed from the top without removing the wing. Just build the rear bulkhead per the instructions and add the new mount.

Finally, the last thing that is needed is the battery stick. This is also made from 3/32" plywood. The drawing above shows the dimensions. Once the stick fits nicely in the front mount slot, position it so that it is pushed into the slot half way and the other end is resting on the rear mount. Drill the hold behind the stick and through the rear mount. This hole can then be slotted to allow for battery placement adjustments. Slot the stick just enough to give it a good range of motion without pulling out of the front mount. A little Velcro on the stick and rear mount provide some friction to help prevent the mount from sliding.

Placing the batteries on the stick cannot be done until the model is just about ready to fly (in terms of completeness). Velcro is placed on both sides of the stick and on one side of each 7-cell pack. Place the batteries on the stick almost to the end and temporarily install the battery stick in the plane with it clamped down at its center of travel (photo above at middle). With everything installed (RX, RX battery, servos, wing, canopy, motor, prop, spinner, etc., check the balance at the 65mm mark. Balance the plane by moving the batteries around on the stick and rechecking the balance with the stick at its center of travel until it is balanced. Once you get the balance right, use tape or heat shrink to secure the battery on the stick. Do not rely on the Velcro alone.

Electronics

As stated above, the Jeti 45-3 Brushless motor is used in the Cosmic Wind. The motor was paired up with the Jeti Jes 40-3P Opto controller, which is capable of handling 6-16 cells. For more information on Jeti Motors and controllers, check out Steve Horney's review: Jeti Phasor 30/3 and 45/3 brushless motors
The 40-3P controller is opto-isolated and does not have BEC. Therefore, a receiver pack is required to power the electronics. I used a RX pack made up of 4-500A cells, which allowed it to fit between the servos on the wing side (bottom) of the servo mounting plate. A standard square flat RX pack will only fit between the servos on the opposite side of the plate.
The receiver was mounted using Velcro behind the rear bulkhead near the canopy so it could be accessed when connecting the aileron and battery leads with the canopy off.

Flying

I couldn't ask for more from the Cosmic Wind's first flight. When I got to the field, there were a few gas flyers there. One or two were flying and the others were watching. I pulled out the Cosmic Wind and the gassers seemed interested. When I told them it was electric, the jokes started coming. As I got closer to getting it up in the air, those that were flying landed and came over to watch and get in on the some of the jokes.
As I fired the motor up, the gassers started asking if I needed a rubber band to help launch it or if I needed a hand launch. Paying little attention, knowing that they were all just kidding, I taxied out to one end of the field and throttled up. I kept the tail pasted to the grass for a bit and then released it when I got some speed. A little further and I lifted the model from the ground.
Initially, the model wanted to nose up quite a bit. Some down trim solved that. I put it into a turn and throttle back to 1/2 power as I straightened out. I was quite surprised how fast the model zipped by even at 1/2 throttle. I noticed one other thing; the gassers were now quiet.
After zipping back and forth for a few passes, I had it all trimmed out. The rolls were nice and on axis, but were a little slow for me using the recommended throws. Once I kicked it up into high rate, it was much better. The rudder and elevator controls were fine using the recommended throws. A few loops later, the Cosmic Wind had me hooked. With the throttle off, this bird seems to fly as if it still has power. Some planes show a noticeable nose drop when the power is killed, but not this plane.

The final test was to check out the ballistic flight characteristics. I took the plane full-throttle and straight up from level-flight. I doubt it has unlimited vertical, but it was high enough for me and I pulled out first. In "vertical mode," the model has a tendency to slide left a little. I'm not sure if this is a natural tendency or if it due to the rudder being a little off.
Finally, after five minutes of having the time of my life, I brought the model around for final approach. I cut the throttle and brought it in. I chose to keep it fast coming in since I was not yet familiar with its slow speed characteristics. The Cosmic Wind touched down nicely on the main gear as the tail flew down the runway a little further, until the grass slowed the model enough. Once it stopped, I taxied it back to the pit and turned it off. It doesn't get any easier than that.

Conclusions

Congratulations, you made it to the end of the review. I should give you a prize or something. I know it was long, but there was a lot of good information that I needed to tell you. If you choose to build this model, I hope this information will help.
Well, what can I say? This is the fastest flying model I've built. It took a little extra work to get it flying, but it was definitely worth the effort. Most of the construction was straight forward, but the instructions are just a little incomplete at times. I believe anyone with moderate building skills would have no problem building this model. As far as flying it, I think some mid or low-wing flying experience is required before taking on this model.
The Graupner Cosmic Wind is a fantastic flyer. It tracks beautifully and as far as I can tell, has no bad habits. It flies fast and when you throttle back... well, it still flies fast.
The Great Planes Fun One was my favorite plane when it was gas and became my favorite when it became electric, but the Graupner Cosmic Wind is the new #1. I will guarantee* the Graupner Cosmic Wind will become your next #1.


* Disclaimer: Your actual results may vary, but I doubt it. :-)

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