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Old Mar 11, 2004, 07:04 AM
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USA
Joined Feb 2002
1,236 Posts
Idea
GWS spitfire build tips?

I just bought a spitfire and am wondering if there are any must have mods for this model. Mainly Im concerned with; Does it need any more down and or right thrust other than whats designed in? Does a thunder power 3s2100 fit in the stock battery location with no mods, or does the battery slot need to be reamed out? I havent bought the tp2100 yet so dont have it to fit yet. Im planning on using rz2500 power at around 13-14 amps. Has anybody figured out a retract set up for this airplane? Thanks!
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Old Mar 11, 2004, 08:31 AM
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rudderbud2000's Avatar
Lovettsville, VA
Joined Oct 2002
144 Posts
Spitfire Mods

After adding a lot of paint to my Spitfire, I found I had to add 1.5oz of lead to the nose to get it to balance. So I took out the lead and extended the fuse by 2" just in front of the wing with white foam. I could then balance with just the battery only (8cell AAA NiMh) at 16oz AUW. Flies great! Bud
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Old Mar 11, 2004, 09:05 AM
Callsign: CornDog
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Milpitas, CA
Joined May 2003
5,364 Posts
First off, you will need to carve out the battery compartement. I'd strongly suggest you get your battery first so you can make sure you have removed anough material. I discovered with mine that I also needed to test sliding it in and out before I glued the 2 halves together. I wound up removing quite a bit of foam. If you can't get the battery and want to start building, maybe you can get the demensions and then cut a piece of wood (or some other material) to use as a guide.

Balance was an issue for me. I wound up using some of the clay (which I hate to do).

Mine is a belly flopper so when I hinged the rudder, I added another hinge at the bottom for strength.

One little build tip I'd suggest is to buy some foam safe dark green paint. After you cut your ailerons, elevator and rudder and sanded a bevel to it, paint the white area green. You don't need a perfect match and it certainly makes a differance on the finished plane!

Another build tip I learned from Splash at e-flightline.com is to take your blade and strike cross hashes through all the plastic surfaced that you will be applying glue to. Also, on any foam servaces that these plastic peices will fit to, use the point of your blade to poke small holes. The holes allow the epoxy to penatrate the foam and the cross hashing gives the plastic piece a surface the epoxy can bond to better. This method makes for much stronger bonds, which in the case of the landing gear it really good.

I know that Splash is also working on retracts for this bird. You may want to send him a PM and ask him about it.

Steve
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Last edited by HawkLover; Mar 11, 2004 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2004, 08:08 PM
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USA
Joined Feb 2002
1,236 Posts
Thanks guys. I will lighten up the tail before anything gets glued, and hopefully will get a tp21003s ASAP. May go ahead and see if the esc will fit very far forward as well.
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Old Mar 11, 2004, 10:30 PM
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Joined Oct 2003
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Here's one I did that might be useful..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=187501
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Last edited by CUBANO8; Mar 11, 2004 at 10:32 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2004, 11:37 AM
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N.Y.
Joined Jan 2003
887 Posts
I suggest you make a wooden firewall with some lite birch plywood, it saves a lot of damage to the foam if you nose in.
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