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Old Jan 15, 2014, 08:27 PM
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Plywood - painting, then covering with thinned epoxy

I'm building some skis from plywood. I'd like them to be white and waterproof, so my plan is to paint them white first, then coat them with thinned epoxy.

If you have any pointers on paint type, application method (spray or brush) and prep (before paint, between coats and before epoxy) I'd like to hear them.
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 06:24 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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I would go about painting ply skiis a little differently than your plan

I'd sand the skiis, and glass them with 3/4 oz cloth, using laminating epoxy.

After glassing, the weave filled, and everything is sanded, I would prime with auto primer and paint with Rustoleum.

Thinned epoxy isn't a suitable "paint" It's ok for firewalls, etc, but I wouldn't use it for a top coat.

If you desire an epoxy top coat, I paint the skiis using Klass Kote white, and save a step.

I've never done it, but I suppose the laminating epoxy could be used as a top coat. It will definately flow out better than thinned epoy glue.

I prefer to spray, but for what you are doing, brushing should fine.
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Last edited by TomCrump; Jan 16, 2014 at 06:48 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I would go about painting ply skiis a little differently than your plan

I'd sand the skiis, and glass them with 3/4 oz cloth, using laminating epoxy.

After glassing, the weave filled, and everything is sanded, I would prime with auto primer and paint with Rustoleum.

Thinned epoxy isn't a suitable "paint" It's ok for firewalls, etc, but I wouldn't use it for a top coat.

If you desire an epoxy top coat, I paint the skiis using Klass Kote white, and save a step.

I've never done it, but I suppose the laminating epoxy could be used as a top coat. It will definately flow out better than thinned epoy glue.

I prefer to spray, but for what you are doing, brushing should fine.
Tom, thanks for the tips. I have limited experience with fibreglass so I have some questions...
  1. Where should I look for 3/4 oz cloth and laminating epoxy?
  2. What does "the weave filled" mean?
  3. Where can I find Klass Kote white?
  4. If I use Klass Kote white, which step am I saving?

Much appreciated!
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Traverse City, Michigan
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Originally Posted by grosbeak View Post
Tom, thanks for the tips. I have limited experience with fibreglass so I have some questions...
  1. Where should I look for 3/4 oz cloth and laminating epoxy?
  2. What does "the weave filled" mean?
  3. Where can I find Klass Kote white?
  4. If I use Klass Kote white, which step am I saving?

Much appreciated!
Tower has the glass cloth
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL491&P=0


Tower has the finishing resin (Laminating Epoxy), too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX58&P=0

Klass Kote White is available here: http://www.klasskote.com/

The step you could eliminate is the clear coat, but they handle clear, as well.

When you glass using finishing resin, the weave in the cloth is still exposed after the first resin coat. After the epoxy has cured, everything gets a light sanding, and a second coat of resin is applied. This is called "filling the weave".

My guess is that there are multiple vids, on You Tube, illustrating the process.

Hope this helps
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 09:15 AM
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grosbeak's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
Tower has the glass cloth
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL491&P=0


Tower has the finishing resin (Laminating Epoxy), too. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX58&P=0

Klass Kote White is available here: http://www.klasskote.com/

The step you could eliminate is the clear coat, but they handle clear, as well.

When you glass using finishing resin, the weave in the cloth is still exposed after the first resin coat. After the epoxy has cured, everything gets a light sanding, and a second coat of resin is applied. This is called "filling the weave".

My guess is that there are multiple vids, on You Tube, illustrating the process.

Hope this helps
It does, very much. Thank you.

The total surface area of the skis is a little over 300 inē plus a little extra for the spines, axle blocks and runners - a liberal estimate would be 350 inē. I see that the cloth is sold by the square yard (1296 inē) so that will be plenty... Any idea how much a the epoxy resin (6 oz bottles) will cover?

I'm contacting Klass Kote directly to ask some questions about products and applications.
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 10:46 AM
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Still looking into Klass Kote but there are time and cost factors. If I paint with Rustoleum, would I still need a clear coat?
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 11:29 AM
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The resin, linked above, will be more than enough. A more suitable size may be here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&P=9&I=LXCJYF

You're just looking for waterproofing. You'll have that after you glass, using the epoxy finishing resin. I don't see a need for a clear coat.

You could probably use the finishing resin as a clear coat, if you want. I'd do a test panel, though, just to see how it looks.
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 12:27 PM
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grosbeak's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
The resin, linked above, will be more than enough. A more suitable size may be here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&P=9&I=LXCJYF

You're just looking for waterproofing. You'll have that after you glass, using the epoxy finishing resin. I don't see a need for a clear coat.

You could probably use the finishing resin as a clear coat, if you want. I'd do a test panel, though, just to see how it looks.
Makes sense - thanks!
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 02:44 PM
Rob H
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United States, MD, Rosedale
Joined Jul 2011
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Another idea that you could do is if you have a local boat store or maybe some hardware stores, they sell pigments for epoxy. (Similar to the link below)

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...FaxQOgodoSUASA
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Old Jan 16, 2014, 03:04 PM
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The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Joined Oct 2002
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With respect I'd suggest that this is pretty much overkill.

Assuming the skis are built from birch aircraft plywood laminated over a form so it holds the shape the plywood itself will be a nice firm grounding to accept paints and varnishes and give a lovely finish that resists gouges as long as you fly from snow and not from gravel.

To prep the wood you can either coat it with epoxy FIRST or just use a good durable polyurethane varnish. Either is highly durable and water proof.

If you seal the wood with epoxy then get the two hour cure stuff. Mix up enough and thin it with 99% denatured alcohol that you get from the drug store. Paint it over the wood thinly and let cure. Sand off the fuzzies and put on a second coating of epoxy. When that cures wet sand with 600 grit to dull the surface overall. Then paint.

If you go with the polyurethane varnish I'd suggest the old oil style used with mineral spirits (AKA "low odor paint thinner"). Thin the fist two coats of varnish to a water like consistency so it soaks in and acts more as a bonding sealer. Sand between coats when dry to remove the fuzzies. With the two thin sealer coats done apply a couple of coats of full strength varnish to build the surface finish and give a good water proof film. Wet sand with 600 between these coats to remove the gloss only. By now the fuzzies should not be appearing. If they still appear you sanded too much. Just build up another coat or two of varnish until there's no fuzzies. Don't over sand the edges. It's easy to mess that part up.

With the nice water proof base on the wood it's time for colour. My suggestion is Flecto brand enamel. It goes on with a good build, it's very scratch and scuff resistant after it fully dries for about a week and it has a nice high gloss shine. It's also exhaust oil resistant even with glow fuel. Although it won't resist raw glow fuel. If this is a glow power model I'd top coat the enamel with another coat or two of the polyurethane varnish which IS quite glow fuel resistant.

This is all still a bit of work what with the multiple coats and drying time involved. But at least it only takes three relatively low cost products. Namely the thinner, varnish and enamel. And you can get all of it at the local hardware or paint store.
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Old Jan 17, 2014, 03:46 PM
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And from an ancient Mariner, Marine stores have the Glass cloth, and fiber-glass "Gel-coat", which can be your paint of choice throughout the lay-up and finishing.

The Gel-coat can be tinted to your white, and if it wears away from hard surface contact, it will still be white, down to the base wood.

They make a one-time use spray can of resin. You inject the hardener into the can, shake it violently for a while, and spray the Gel-coat as you usually spray paint.

It's tough as nails, but NEVER matches any boat color I've seen.
In your case,m the "White" is white enough.
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Old Jan 17, 2014, 05:51 PM
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And that would be another fine option with even LESS need for lots of different stuff.
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Old Jan 18, 2014, 10:21 AM
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Lots of great tips, and many thanks. I have already ordered the fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin so I'll be going that far at least. My current thinking is to glass, sand, prime and paint. If I can paint from a rattle can, that's what I'll do.
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