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Old Mar 02, 2004, 06:01 PM
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Aces High Tony's Avatar
Cleveland
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Question
Latex house paint

I've read forum where guys use Latex house paint for their coloring. How much can it be thinned out for airbrushing before it doesn't adhere well? Final coat will be with Top Flite Dull Coat. ANY COMMENTS OR ADVICE ON LATEX PAINT, REGUARDLESS, WILL BE HELPFUL. Thanks
Tony
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Old Mar 04, 2004, 07:47 AM
I can 3 point
Paul Wilson's Avatar
Mount Dora Florida
Joined Aug 2002
731 Posts
Hi Tony,
here you go. never done it myself but may on my next plane.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
Good Luck
Paul
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Old Mar 04, 2004, 06:03 PM
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yup, Roy's article is the bible for this topic.
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Old Mar 25, 2004, 04:46 PM
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Land O' Lakes, FL
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Great finishing site!

check this out...go all the way through it. It is the best 'how to paint', etc. I have ever seen!

http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/html/paint.htm
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Old Mar 25, 2004, 08:03 PM
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I tryed this with a "Sig Morsey Bravo". I rushed to much as I was taking the airplane to work, getting to work, Oh an hour or so early and trying to paint before work, and then bringing the plane home at the end of a 12 hour shift.
I got far enough into it to see that it will work and will work very well.
Take a lot of time to read the articles that Paul and sailr have linked to and above all don't rush it I did looks sorta OK but I wish that I had set up at home and realy taken my time.
Rick
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Old Apr 06, 2004, 12:30 AM
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How about latex over iron on plastic covering?

Those two articles have made me think about trying latex on my planned P-40 project. I was thinking about the possibility of covering the model with aluminum and/or chrome iron on covering such as 21st century film or monokote, then painting the cammo paint with latex on top of this. All of this with the hope of going back over it and weathering the plane by chipping off the paint in a normal wear patterns along the wing leading edges, etc., like many of the tired warbirds I've seen in pictures. Maybe scuffing the surface of the covering with a very fine sandpaper would allow the latex to adhere well enough? I'm game at this point... sounds fun!

Brad
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Old Apr 06, 2004, 10:21 AM
12th Cavalry
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I would think that you are sort of adding insult to injury. It's not a bad idea, if your looking into competiton modeling, but why add 2 coverings if your going to fly for yourself? Paint it once, then add chipped detail with aluminum paint. Only my opinion but, why add more weight and more work?!? Either way, sure it'll look great. By the way, I will use latex on the rest of my planes in the future. Works great, easy clean up, no fumes, any color imaginable, durable...just make sure you seal it well with dull or gloss coat.
Good Luck, Tony
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Old Apr 06, 2004, 11:10 AM
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The only thing to be aware of is latex paint is NOT glow fuel safe. it is OK for gasoline though, and as Tony just said it will need a sealing coat of something. I've just been sorta hired to build a plane for someone and after that I really want to get started on my F4U-Corsair, (Ziroli design) I keep getting distractions, and putting off starting it. But I will try the latex paint on it.
Rick
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Old Apr 06, 2004, 01:30 PM
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Both the above sources are GREAT. I have the MAN article archived from a while back, but havn't seen the second one.

I think I'm certainly going to use latex on my next large scale model, but my only question is how much weight the latex paint job will have ove a light weight model masters paint job for a non sealed electric finish. If it's comparable I will certainly move over to latex for everything. I hate the fumes and the temperature critical nature of my laquers and enamels.

Just to clarify:

Gas engines are fine to use with a Latex finish.

Glow engines are not good to use with latex finishes. However, if I'm reading into this correctly, you can use latex with a glow engine if you clear coat polyurethane over the whole model.

Thanks for the 2 links guys
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Old Apr 06, 2004, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eddie P
Just to clarify:

Gas engines are fine to use with a Latex finish.

Glow engines are not good to use with latex finishes. However, if I'm reading into this correctly, you can use latex with a glow engine if you clear coat polyurethane over the whole model.
YES:
Quote:
I think I'm certainly going to use latex on my next large scale model, but my only question is how much weight the latex paint job will have over a light weight model masters paint job for a non sealed electric finish.
I don't know for sure. But when I ordered Bob Banka's catalogue for all the airplanes that he has pic's of Roy's article was in it.
Roy mentions that he built and flew a large warbird using epoxy paints. After flying it for a while, it had an accident, and was in need of repairs. in his article he mentions that after striping off the epxoy paint. and refinishing the airplane with latex it was 4 1/2 lbs lighter. This airplane was said to have a 92" wingspan, I just went and checked the article. This is Roy's experance that he shared in this article.
Hope it helps.
Rick
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Old Apr 07, 2004, 10:50 AM
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Hey guys,
Yes, latex DOES NOT need to be sealed when using gasoline BUT for glow fuel it DOES. Latex is extremely durable, cheap and easy to fix. Also, does make a sizeable difference when comparing weight. As far a sealing goes, I used Top Flite Dull Coat, which does add some weight(clear epoxy). I used water based polyurathane on my control surfaces, (to seal the mesh in fabric) and am planning on trying it as a top coat in future. (TEST, TEST, TESTS). Not sure if it's fuel proof, at least the water based, I would imagine so. Anyhow, like I said,as far as Epoxy goes, paint matching, high prices, "is this paint compatable with this paint"...BS...Just go latex and make it easy on yourself. OH, reminder, I thinned my latex down to ....oh.....1:1, or in some testing instances, even less water, but paint got stringy coming out of airbrush. 1:1 works just fine. I've also heard you can thin paint with automotive windsheild washer fluid. Whatever the formula, latex is the way to go. Swear by it.
Tony
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Old Apr 07, 2004, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aces High Tony
I've also heard you can thin paint with automotive windsheild washer fluid.
OH one more thing here.
Paraphrasing a few things from Roy's article;
He adds aprox 1-2oz of a product called "Floetrol" to a quart of paint. You add it once and that's it. It looks a little like milk kinda a creamy white. I talked with the paint store guy and what it is, is basicly the paint base that holds everything together like a binder. It becomes very important if the colour that is mixed has a lot of pigment.
The soap content in windshield washer fliud, and the floetrol allow the paint to flow out giving a smooth finish.
Lastly even though it can be masked and painted the next day latex needs 3-4 weeks to be fully cured, If you grab it tightly you could leave a finger print in it, then a day or two later the finger print is gone. (at least that's what Roy was saying) I'm kinda guessing here but it might be the soap content still comeing out.
I'm definitly going to give it a go when I do the Corsair.
Rick
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Old Apr 13, 2004, 03:17 PM
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Sounds pretty convincing.

What airbrushes and compressors have you guys been using? I'll have to get a new "larger coverage" setup anyhow.

As far as detail work goes - My fine art airbrush is still in excellent shape, but will latex gum up the "fine" brushes?
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Old Apr 13, 2004, 04:09 PM
12th Cavalry
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Cleveland
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I use a Aztec from Testors....$25??? I also use a craftsman 3 Gallon handyman comp. Play with the airpressure and the thickness. It'll still shoot thick, but it'll be stringy. I found out best to use 50:50, you could also go thinner. Funny thing was, it'll still cover great.
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Old Apr 30, 2004, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aces High Tony
Hey guys,
Yes, latex DOES NOT need to be sealed when using gasoline BUT for glow fuel it DOES. Latex is extremely durable, cheap and easy to fix. Also, does make a sizeable difference when comparing weight. As far a sealing goes, I used Top Flite Dull Coat, which does add some weight(clear epoxy). I used water based polyurathane on my control surfaces, (to seal the mesh in fabric) and am planning on trying it as a top coat in future. (TEST, TEST, TESTS). Not sure if it's fuel proof, at least the water based, I would imagine so. Anyhow, like I said,as far as Epoxy goes, paint matching, high prices, "is this paint compatable with this paint"...BS...Just go latex and make it easy on yourself. OH, reminder, I thinned my latex down to ....oh.....1:1, or in some testing instances, even less water, but paint got stringy coming out of airbrush. 1:1 works just fine. I've also heard you can thin paint with automotive windsheild washer fluid. Whatever the formula, latex is the way to go. Swear by it.
Tony
does the windshield washer leave a blue cast and will the polyurathane turn yellow after a year or so.thanks
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