|HobbyKing Product Video - Durafly Bf.110 1200mm electric warbird (PnF and ARF) (3 min 26 sec)|
|Flying Weight:||1300g-1400g (45.86 - 49.38) oz.|
|Servos:||4 x 9g, 2 x 4.5g|
|Transmitter:||6+ Channel Programmable DSM2 2.4GHz|
|Receiver:||Orange 6 CH 2.4GHz R620|
|Battery:||3S 2200-2600mAh 25C LiPo|
|Motors:||2 2620-71350KV Brushless Outrunners installed|
|ESC:||2 x 20Amp Opto Brushless pre-installed|
|Propellers:||2 8 x 4 3-Bladed propeller|
The Bf-110 was conceived to be a destroyer to take out the enemy fighters while leading German bombers on their raids. In the Battle of Britain it was quickly established that the Bf-110 needed fighter planes to protect it from the British fighters during the daytime. Having failed at its original mission the plane was used as a ground attack plane in the Greek and Cypress theater of war and was successful there. It also was big enough to hold German's air borne radar system and was very successful as a night fighter over Germany against the British bombers. The Germans found a way to take their lemons and make lemonade. However, this Durafly RC plane is cherry all the way!
|Durafly Bf-110 Assembly Video (12 min 21 sec)|
The wing spar fit into the left wing half perfectly but would not go all the way into the right wing half. Looking inside the wing it appeared that there was a little extra foam or something at the the very tip top tip of the wing channel so I sanded off a bit of the last 1/4" of the spar at the top until the spar fit all the way down the wing. (Always test fit your parts before you apply glue, never assume they will fit perfectly.) With the spar now fitting properly into both wing halves I could go forward with the general assembly of the plane.
Having adjusted and slightly sanded the wing spar I again trial fitted it into the wing halves and it now fit perfectly. I applied the supplied glue to the four sides of the spar on one 1/2 of the spar and fit it into the right wing half. I repeated the process and added some glue to the wing root on one side and slid the second wing half onto the spar and lined up the two halves at the wing root. I uses a rubber band and two clamps to keep them aligned and set the wing aside for the glue to start drying. After a couple of hours I added glue to the bottom of the wing bolt plates and slid them into proper position and set the wing aside to allow the glue to set up over night.
Early the next day I did some additional work on the wing by adding the control horns to the ailerons. That was the state of the wing when I started the assembly video. I proceeded to the radio installation before resuming work on the wing.
The receiver was ultimately installed in the back of the wing saddle in the fuselage. However before I worried about the final assembly I bound the receiver to my transmitter and connected the wing and the rudder servos to the receiver and turned everything on. The control arms for the ailerons and the rudders came down out of the foam to allow me to connect the control rods to the control arms on the servos and to the control horns that I mounted on the control surfaces.
With servo arms down and ready to be connected I temporarily disconnected the receiver from all wires and mounted it using Velcro like material in the back of the wing saddle. I was using only a six channel receiver and this plane has a lot of wires with the lights to connect to the receiver. Ultimately I had the following controls and lights connected to the receiver. 1) Throttle 2) Aileron Y-harness, 3) elevator 4) Rudder Y-harness, 5) Landing gear Y-harness, 6) Lights 3 connector harness, Battery) UBEC (6 and Battery can be connected either way.
As with the wing I started some sub-assembly of the tail during some free time before I started the video of the assembly. I secured the control horns to the elevators and to the rudders. Next I carefully glued the vertical stabilizers to the ends of the horizontal stabilizer. There were blocks on the outer ends of the stabilizer and molded spaces on the vertical stabilizers that fit those blocks. I added some of the supplied glue and set the tail assembly aside to dry. It was in that state of assembly when I started the assembly video.
I used the supplied rudder control rods with clevises to connect the rudders to the servo arms. With the rudders connected and in their proper position for normal flight I plugged the rudder servo wires into the two wires at the end of the fuselage and carefully worked those wires into the fuselage being careful not to get in the way of the tail wheel servo in the fuselage. With the wires in place I then glued the tail section onto the fuselage using thick CA and firmly holding the tail assembly in place on the fuselage for a couple minutes while the thick CA set up.
I next connected the control rods coming out the back of the fuselage to the elevator control horns. The tail assembly was now complete.
I connected the supplied aileron control rods between the aileron servo arms and the control horns on the ailerons. I adjusted them to make sure the ailerons were in the neutral position. I then got out my razor saw and carefully made the cuts to free the outer portion of the ailerons from the wing tip. The ailerons were now free to function properly. The wing was now ready to be attached to the fuselage.
With the radio installed in the fuselage as described above I turned the fuselage upside down and set it in my plane holder. I carefully lowered the wing into the wing saddle and fit the various wires from each wing half into one of two holes in the fuselage wing saddle designed for those wires. Two of those wires were very short. I mounted the wing to the bottom of the fuselage with two of the three supplied wing mounting bolts and put the spare bolt in a safe place. I rotated the plane over and placed it back into the plane holder but now right side up. I connected all of the control wires to the receiver as described above and I also connected the two electric speed control power connectors to the power connector that matched them.
I secured the supplied Velcro like material to the front inside bottom of the fuselage and the matching piece to the bottom of the flight battery. It connects to the ESC Y-harness to supply power to the two motors. The plane was now assembled. I positioned the wires in the wing saddle so that the canopy fit in place and covered them.
Installing the two props was a simple matter of watching how the motors turned and installed the proper one for each side as they are counter rotating. The props were secured with a nut and some non permanent thread lock. The spinners were secured over them with one screw per side. I went with the way the motors were spinning and that worked perfectly for me.
The recommended Center of Gravity is given as being from 60-70mm back from the leading edge of the wing as measured at the fuselage. I started at 65 mm back for my initial flight testing and found that that worked very well. All flights have been with the C/G at between 65 and 70mm back from the wings leading edge. I have used both a 3-cell 2200mAh pack and a 3-cell 1800mah pack. I get a full 8 minutes with the 2200mAh with some throttle management and have a minute of spare flight time. The 1800mAh packs gets positioned more towards the nose to balance the plane properly but there is still space in front of it in the nose of the fuselage.
The instruction manual gave recommendations for both low and high rates movements and they are as follows.
Recommended dual rates
As described above I use seven channels to connect up everything for the plane with the receiver. Their are four flight controls and landing gear. The navigation and landing light use a sixth channel and the UBEC a seventh slot for the battery. For flying their are the four basic flight controls of throttle, ailerons, elevator and rudder. The rudder channel is important as it controls the tail wheel for steering on the ground and the twin rudders are very helpful in keeping the plane properly tracking down the runway in a cross wind. Once airborne the ailerons are the main turning control and they work best with a bit of rudder added into the turn with some up elevator added as the turn progress to keep the plane flying level. If your transmitter has differential for the ailerons I recommend programming in a bit to avoid adverse yaw or use the rudder in coordinated turns or as a mix with the aileron to avoid the yaw. The elevator is very responsive so I now frequently have it on low rate unless I am doing sport aerobatics.
Thanks to the counter rotating propellers this plane has no bad habits and no problem with torque that can be such a concern with gas powered twins. I just line her up into the wind and supply power and she goes nice and straight down the runway. I can advance the throttle quickly and make a short field takeoff or do it more slowly and have a more scale like takeoff. For landing I line up with the runway and reduce power slowly and fly the plane all the way onto the runway. Reduce throttle too quickly and you get a bit of a bounce on landing as seen in the flight video below. Done right the landings are greased. But fly the plane to the ground with power on for best results.
The plane has some very nice main landing gear with landing gear doors. The doors are held closed by springs and are forced open by a plastic bar on the landing gear that pushes them open as the gear comes down and holds them open as long as the gear is down. Retract the gear and the springs close the landing gear doors after the bar on the struts disengages the panels on the inside of the door. Very cool way to do it and works great in actual operation. I did have one gear that didn't close all the way for two flights but a little adjustment on my transmitter for gear travel and it worked as designed.
The plane does rolls, loops and all of the sport maneuvers that I have tried. Her rolls are, as would be expected, much better when done with the gear up than when done with the gear down. She is almost as graceful as a single engine sport plane in most of her maneuvers. I had good control with proper speed in all rolls, loops, half pipes, split Ss etc. An inverted loop around the field is not a strain and she can do a string a rolls around the field at full throttle with the proper insertion of up elevator at the start of each roll. Handling is more like a twin engine sport plane then one might expect and that is part of the advantage of flying an electric with counter rotating propellers.
She has no bad habits and is easy to assemble and fly but I recommend her for a second or third plane and not a first plane for a beginner. With so many good trainers available today I think it makes sense to start with a good trainer plane first. I like planes that self correct for beginners and this one goes where last directed so NO for a beginner.
|The Durafly RC BF110 in Flight (3 min 46 sec)|
This is one very sweet looking plane. A scale looking twin engine plane with three bladed props and nice molded in panel lines. The paint scheme is a real color scheme used by Germany in the Greek theater during World War II. The color scheme might have looked a little cartoonish to me at first but the color scheme quickly grew on me watching her in the air. She was easy to assemble, affordable, in fact I consider her a good buy at the price available from the USA warehouse. There are admittedly a lot of wires in a small wing saddle area but they tucked out of the way with no problem. I kept her fully assembled and transported her to the Arizona Electric Festival on top on the luggage in our Prius hatchback ready to fly. She has good power, good handling and sells for a reasonable price. The Bf-110 is powered with a very affordable 3-cell 2200mAh battery pack with a dean connector. She flies bigger and by that I mean with more authority, than I would expect from a plane with only a three foot wing span. As a prior work buddy, Tom Bone, used to say with happy enthusiasm: "Winner, Winner Chicken Dinner!" That phrase comes to my mind watching her in the air! If you are looking for a nice flying twin engine plane that won't break the bank I strongly recommend the Bf-110 for your consideration.
My thanks once again to my friends Chris Tapangcura and Dick Andersen for their help getting the air media shots for this review. Thanks to our editor, Angela, and to HobbyKing for supplying the plane to RC Groups for this review.Last edited by Michael Heer; Feb 12, 2014 at 10:22 AM..
|Feb 15, 2014, 08:47 AM|
Very nice review Mike. The 110 has been on my Must Have plane list for a long time. I've always liked the lines of the 110, but never wanted to go to all the trouble of a scratch build. Looks like Durafly has come up with a solution to my problem.
It looks like you are using all the channels on the orange Rx, so I guess you haven't tried differential throttle yet. I think I have an eight channel Rx laying around here somewhere so I guess I should get out my CC and start warming up the wife to the idea of another visit from the big brown truck.
|Feb 15, 2014, 10:57 AM|
It is a very nice flying plane. I will be interested to hear from you if the differential thrust was worth the added effort. I expect to see more go to the spring close push open landing gear doors in the future. Mike H
|Feb 15, 2014, 12:32 PM|
|Feb 16, 2014, 02:56 PM|
This is one of my favorite relaxing scale flyers. My only gripe would be the gear doors have extremely fragile hinges, and grass fields can break them easily, as will transporting it with the gear down. The props/hubs are pretty fragile too, so buying spares is a pretty good idea....------Metalguy
|Feb 17, 2014, 04:01 PM|
Durafly is evil on my wallet. They make some sweet-looking planes. If this one were smaller I'd be poorer today.
I'm pretty much set on flying minis around 20 inch wingspan as the larger fields get harder to come by and harder to drive to.
|Apr 02, 2014, 03:03 AM|
i have one and my main problem is that i broke most of the hinges on the retracts and some just pulled out so they need to be glued in also i ordered extra props in case of brakage but i have yet to use them but i have broken three hubs so you need these in your flight box as they break very easy on tip overs on grass strips but i love flying mine and is always first packed on flying days
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