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Old Jan 10, 2014, 06:32 AM
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^ Not only that, but the screws on the tarot kit are soft. It's easy to strip them without any loctite. With red, you'll be drilling them out after.
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RDTague View Post
Red is too permanent, IMO. Red can pull the threads out, if you need to remove. Blue is a better strength of loctite, IMO, in our application.
Yup I used Z42 blue. The red is like a retaining compound which I use on some of the components on my Heli tail assemblies. The only way to loosen the stuff is a blowtorch !
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RDTague View Post
Foxtechfpv just came out with These, which will aid in transport, too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gltkGkS1r5I
I've seen that. Has someone tried? Is it as safe as they say?
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fanch72 View Post
I've seen that. Has someone tried? Is it as safe as they say?
This seems to be the "New Thing." The self locking props started with the Phantom 2 and since then, T Motor and Foxtechfpv has jumped onboard. I can't really see any problems, as long as the correction direction adapter is used. I know there are a ton of flyers who remove their props during transport. I, for one, have never done so. Threads stretch each and every time they are tightened, so I really never wanted to take a chance. But, that's just me, too.
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 11:57 PM
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Australia, VIC, Geelong
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Just like to say thanks to RDTague for this build thread.

I have just finished building my 680pro and flew her this afternoon.

Approx 3.2-3.3kg

680pro Stock Kit
3508-580 Multistar's w/ 12x4.5 APC Multirotor Props
DJI 30amp Opto's
Gopro + t2-d Gimbal + Video gear
2 x 5000mah 25c Zippy Compact's

Flew to 20mins with 14.5V on the OSD, Batts are on charge now and will edit with how many mah's they take back.

Couldn't be happier!

btw still cant get over how heavy these things actually are compared to a f450!
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 01:20 AM
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Very nice Aurora
My order is in transit and almost same setup like yours.
Can you tell me , did you drill motor plate to fit your motor holes ?
I believe RDT drill the plates for older version because the holes spacing were not match
and your motor spacing is 19mm and 25mm , and I'm planing to use 4108-600KV same holes spacing like yours. Thank you
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RDTague View Post
This seems to be the "New Thing." The self locking props started with the Phantom 2 and since then, T Motor and Foxtechfpv has jumped onboard. I can't really see any problems, as long as the correction direction adapter is used. I know there are a ton of flyers who remove their props during transport. I, for one, have never done so. Threads stretch each and every time they are tightened, so I really never wanted to take a chance. But, that's just me, too.
You're probably right.
They're out of stock now...
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 04:38 AM
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I upgraded to the Foxtech Carbon Supreme 1240 props and saw a huge improvement in stability and efficiency.

My OSD was reporting around 39 amps during hover with the plastic Gemfan 1245 props I was previously using. With the Foxtech Carbon Supreme 1240 props it was hovering at around 32 amps. That's like a 18% improvement in efficiency. Amazing! Unfortunately I crashed into a small bush/tree while messing about in manual flight mode to see how much throttle it took to hover. It looked like it was taking around 80% throttle to hover. I was testing with a single 4S 5400 battery. Unfortunately when I looked up I had lost control of the craft and barely avoided a catastrophic crash. Seems like the only damage I sustained are 3 broken props. Time to order more props. No more flying till I get more props.

Note to self, do not fly in manual mode in my backyard!!!
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 07:50 AM
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Hey guys, I have a specific question reguarding this setup. I have the Naza V2 and the T2D gimble. I cant seem to get control of the tilt function of the gimble. Im plugged into the F1 on the Naza and I use the small servo cable that splits to three heads. I have the white plugged into the "T" at the top row and the black into a negative on the bottom row of pins. I have the opposite end plugged into the NAZA so that the white cable is on top pin in the F1 port. I think the problem may be in my TX setup.. I have the input for my right knob on my dx9 going to the AUX1 port on my RX which goes to the X1 port on my NAZA. Does any of this match what anyone else has?
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by multi phobic View Post
Hey guys, I have a specific question reguarding this setup. I have the Naza V2 and the T2D gimble. I cant seem to get control of the tilt function of the gimble. Im plugged into the F1 on the Naza and I use the small servo cable that splits to three heads. I have the white plugged into the "T" at the top row and the black into a negative on the bottom row of pins. I have the opposite end plugged into the NAZA so that the white cable is on top pin in the F1 port. I think the problem may be in my TX setup.. I have the input for my right knob on my dx9 going to the AUX1 port on my RX which goes to the X1 port on my NAZA. Does any of this match what anyone else has?
I'm not sure what radio you are using, but Here is a video I posted on my blog page for a DX8.
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aurora912 View Post
Just like to say thanks to RDTague for this build thread.

I have just finished building my 680pro and flew her this afternoon.

Approx 3.2-3.3kg

680pro Stock Kit
3508-580 Multistar's w/ 12x4.5 APC Multirotor Props
DJI 30amp Opto's
Gopro + t2-d Gimbal + Video gear
2 x 5000mah 25c Zippy Compact's

Flew to 20mins with 14.5V on the OSD, Batts are on charge now and will edit with how many mah's they take back.

Couldn't be happier!

btw still cant get over how heavy these things actually are compared to a f450!
Awesome!
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchutinaton View Post
I upgraded to the Foxtech Carbon Supreme 1240 props and saw a huge improvement in stability and efficiency.

My OSD was reporting around 39 amps during hover with the plastic Gemfan 1245 props I was previously using. With the Foxtech Carbon Supreme 1240 props it was hovering at around 32 amps. That's like a 18% improvement in efficiency. Amazing! Unfortunately I crashed into a small bush/tree while messing about in manual flight mode to see how much throttle it took to hover. It looked like it was taking around 80% throttle to hover. I was testing with a single 4S 5400 battery. Unfortunately when I looked up I had lost control of the craft and barely avoided a catastrophic crash. Seems like the only damage I sustained are 3 broken props. Time to order more props. No more flying till I get more props.

Note to self, do not fly in manual mode in my backyard!!!
Man that SUX! Hopefully the damage isn't too bad!
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 08:22 PM
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United States, CO, Windsor
Joined Aug 2013
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Need Help!

Hey guys - I sure could use some help. I just completed my 690 build based on RDTague build (stock 690 frame with SunnySky 580kv motors). This is my third copter build (F450 + F550) so I have a little experience but still learning.
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Build Config.
- Sunnysky 580kv motors - ZTW Spider 30A ESC Opto with SK firmware - Naza V2 - Spectrum AR8000 w/ TM1000.
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The problem I'm having is the motors are not lifting properly. The craft lifts on the right side. If I try and punch it to get it into the air it will flip over. Now I know what you are thinking... wrong prop set up or wrong MC wiring - no... not that easy... I believe all this is correct. I can say from experience with the Naza V2, the craft should lift off amazingly even and smooth - so I know how a good lift off should look.

Here's my config details:
- MC is wired correctly - both from receiver and motors
- I Throttle calibrated each ESC individually and got the confirming beep
- Each ESC has 3M foam between it and the frame - to remove vibration and electrical flow.
- Naza V2 allows you to test each motor individually to make sure it's wired correctly and spinning correctly - they are...
- all props are perfectly balanced (I use scotch tape on bottom - worked great on other crafts)
- when I spin up the rotors they look and sound great. Not seeing any unusual vibration or hearing anything funny.
- when I move the sticks the craft responds correctly (eg. AIL tilts craft left and right, etc..)
- I originally used bullet connectors for the ESC's but soldered directly after reading RDTague post regarding this.

I'm kind of at a loss on what to do next...? ESCs and motors seem ok. It seems like a calibration problem... From just looking at rotors spinning, it kind of looks like rotor #4 is spinning slower than the others - but I might be hallucinating.

I would appreciate any assistance you guys can offer. Thanks!!
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 08:50 PM
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What mode are you flying when it flips? Have you tried flying manual mode? If manual mode works, then there's possibly something amiss with some of your sensors: GPS, compass, accelerometer. Did you try the Naza IMU calibration?
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 10:20 PM
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United States, CO, Windsor
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Originally Posted by LoneStriker View Post
What mode are you flying when it flips? Have you tried flying manual mode? If manual mode works, then there's possibly something amiss with some of your sensors: GPS, compass, accelerometer. Did you try the Naza IMU calibration?
Thanks for the fast reply! I have tried all modes - GPS, ATTI, Manual. I did notice when I try to lift-off in GPS & ATTI it lifts on the right side, but when I try in Manual it appears to lift from the rear. By the way my motor config is Hex-V.

I did select IMU Calc but the software said I did not need to do this. Should I try this if software is telling me that it's not nesscessary?
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