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#1 |
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Former bpp dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,025
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Crazy Max 3D ROCKS!!!
Watched the Crazy Max 3D fly yesterday. Very Impressive!!! Snap Rolls, Inside, outside loops, Inverted flight, etc. Looked super stable & smooth and quite quick also. Setup was stock motor/gearbox/prop, 7 x 720nimh and four hitech hs55's. The plans include provisions for flaps and spoilers!! I didn't get to fly it but at the hands of the local hobby store owner, he really but it throughs its paces. Very cool. The wing is super stiff so no folding worries there. I think with a simple prop upgrade and a few more cells, hovering might be a possibilty. I can see this is going to become a new favorite. For under 50 bucks you can get a full house aerobatic plane that you can practice all your crazy moves so you can really shine on your more expensive setups. I am picking one up on Monday
-ls77 |
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#2 |
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Hey, I wanna fly too!
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 209
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50 bucks of great fun indeed!
I picked one up from my LHS friday night. I'd say it took me about 6 hours to put it together. Pretty much stock build with four HS 55s, Hitec SuperSlim 8ch rev (minus case) 8 cell 720 NiMHs ended up at 15.0 oz AUW. Setup at recomended "aerobatic" throws, the thing is Crazy.
Quick Build Review The plane goes together real easy. Things to watchout for or mods to consider: 1. First off, standard Depron disclaimer. DO NOT use masking tape to hold anything together unless you WANT TO remove the paint. 2. Yes, it's hard to tell from the instructions, but I think the clear outlined ends of the "fuselage truss" decal are suppose to be included. One other point on the decals, take your time to cut INSIDE the lines, otherwise they are going to look funny on your plane. The lines certainly look worse the next day than they did during the 3am building spree 3. Stabilizer and fiber glass stiffner: If your anal like me, cut a small width off the trailing edge of the stab to match the width of the f/g rod before attaching said rod. This will keep the smooth radius leading edge matched up to the evevator. 4. Rudder: A test fit showed interference between elevator and rudder. I simply cut out an 180° arc in the leding edge of the rudder using a nickel as a template. 5. Servo install: easy, the HS-55s fit the cutouts perfect. For control horns, I used the long two arm pieces (with small holes as I perfer to use the Du-Bro Mini E/Z connectors). The elevator and rudders use th middle hole, ailerons on the outside hole. 6. Wing joining was easy, but as far as the saddle attachment, I found the saddle curvature did not match the wing 100%. If you are not in a hurry, use a combination of 5 minute epoxy on the leading and trailing edges and a bead of ProBond (foaming glue) down the saddle sides. 7. Ailerons: before attaching, I cut the outboard edges at an angle to match the wing tips. Dual servos, outside hole... 8. Radio gear and battery. I have a bunch of 8 cell "diamond shaped" 720AAA packs which fit the front bay perfect. That puts the speed controller (aveox zagi 20) next then the rec. Balanced dead nut! BTW, to measure easier, the balance point is 3-11/16 from the trailing edge... Possible Mods 1. I do not like hinge gaps for clearance. Trim the leading edge of the controll surfaces to a 45° angle before attaching, that away you can butt them up tight. Do the rudder before applying the decals, just be sure to do the correct (right) side. On the elevator, cut angle (on bottom) before epoxing the wire stiffner to consider clearance. Ailerons: cut bottom. 2. Possibly use masking tape to remove paint and/or mask and spray 3M-77 before attaching rudder and or elevator hinge tape. I knocked my rudder hard enough to pop it loose, orange paint and all.3. Fuselage. Wattage now runs the bottom dowel rod completely to the end (verse the Mini-Max which ran half way) If you want to really reinforce the fuse, epoxy (INSIDE) two more dowels of the same dia, full length in the other two corners. I would do this BEFORE installing the wing dowels as it might be tight. A really hard landing showed the area behind the fuselage reinforcement board to still be a weak spot (like the Mini-Max) . Alternativly, 1/16x1/4 basswood strips can be used after final assembly, though experience says it's not as easy This added about 2/10th of an oz...Flying 1. Give yourself some room, this is not your dad's Mini-Max and moves much quicker. Mine flew very netural with just a bit of down trim. 2. Have fun! within a minute you'll be throwing the thing around like Gary Wright. Well, maybe not me, but it does make a good trainer for the E3D (mine arrived in the mail today, Ya-Hoo!) Next up Power mods and Kit Bashing. I know the 720s are abit weak for this setup at 9.6 amps of current draw. BTW, a Zagi 500 pack benchtest draws 12.5 amps and quite a bit more RPM. Hmm... SeeYa, gone flying Terry Last edited by tphillips; Dec 13, 2001 at 08:19 AM. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lynn In
Posts: 118
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The BIG BROWN TOY TRUCK just droped mine off
darn iv got to go to bed to go to work |
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#4 |
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Crash Master
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Uh, oh... That means mine's waiting for me.... Darn, I needed a few more days on the Hissy-Fit...
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: sacramento, ca.
Posts: 94
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And when I want to slow fly, I just slap the mini max wing and batt. on it.
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