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Old Feb 07, 2004, 09:34 AM
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Gil Weiss's Avatar
Bensalem, PA.
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Filip 400 RG Settings question

I am looking for recommendations on how much right thrust and down thrust I should build into this model. I am using an Aveox 27/13/3 with a 4:1 GB and a 12x6 folder.

I also could use recommendations on spoileron settings.


Thanks, Gil
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Old Feb 07, 2004, 10:53 AM
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United States, VA, Leesburg
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re: the spoilers, assuming you have the t-tail version, you can go as high as you want and the Filip will not exhibit any pitch changes. Start with a 1/2-inch or more, but be prepared to pull back on the stick to flatten out the sudden drop in altitude.

re: thrust, a few degrees down right should be fine. Isn't the nose already cut with the offset?

With that 4.3:1 GB and the /3 turn, you could use a MUCH bigger prop. Suggest starting with a 13x7 (assuming your batteries can handle over ~22 amps).
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Last edited by down_shift; Feb 07, 2004 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Feb 07, 2004, 01:07 PM
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Bensalem, PA.
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Thanks for the reply and inforamation. It is a T tail and tge fear box is a 4.3:1 (sorry). This set up is from Northeast Sail Planes and comes with an 8 cell KAN 1050 NIMH pack. I have several other 8 and 9 cell KAN packs so I hope they work out OK. There is not much room for Batteries in the fuse as it is fairly thin. I plan on putting the elevator servo in the tail.

The nose actually shows someleft thrust and literally no down thrust. There is no mention of the correct offset in the instructions or in the many posts on this model here which is why I ask. I'm figuring on maybe 2 degrees down and 2 right?

Thanks, Gil
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Old Feb 07, 2004, 02:09 PM
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If the nose is precut, then you will be fine. Simply glue in the firewall at the same angle. Use a 1/8-inch spacer for the firewall and stand fuse on the nose. This way it will be glued in at the correct angle and leave a small clearance for the GB screw heads and the spinner will be flush.

The Filip has TONS of room for batteries. You can even fit in a 9-cell pack of FAUP. Like you said, the key is to mount the elevator servo in the fin and mount the rudder servo behind the rear wing mount. Use the factory supplied servo mount as the battery mount. Put a piece of veloco on the mount and a piece in the rear of the fuse. Be sure to slide in the battery before glueing in the mount. Leave room to mount the ESC below the mount.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 07, 2004, 02:13 PM
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Here is a pic.

Pic of servo tray used as the front battery mount
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Old Feb 12, 2004, 07:23 PM
Sir Buildsalot
MailOrderGuy's Avatar
Stockbridge, GA
Joined Nov 2002
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Quote:
Originally posted by down_shift
the key is to mount the elevator servo in the fin and mount the rudder servo behind the rear wing mount.
Can you shown a pic of this installation please

Are you using an FAUP pack, if so what configuration?

Do you need a heavier pack in the nose to offset the servos in the tail?
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Old Feb 13, 2004, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Can you shown a pic of this installation please
Sure. Will post some pictures this evening

Quote:
Are you using an FAUP pack, if so what configuration?
I used 9-cell packs of 4/5AUP and 4/5FAUP. Both were configured in 3 end-to-end rows of 3 with the 3rd row in the "valley" of the bottom 2 rows. You can also fit in any 8-cell pack w/ the end-to-end configuration. No need to move up to the FAUPs w/ your motor, but you should use them if going over 28 amps or so.

Quote:
Do you need a heavier pack in the nose to offset the servos in the tail? [/B]
Nope. Only use one servo in the tail. The MPi-50HP is an great elevator servo and it is small enough to fit into the fin. Cut the servo arm so it is narrower than the servo itself and the whole assy will fit w/in the fin for a clean installation. Okay to use the thin wire elevator pushrod supplied w/ the kit, but cut it down so it is ~ 2-inches long. Use a z-bend at the servo and a 90-degree bend (that is ~ 1/2-inch long) for the elevator control horn. When fitting in the balsa cap for the fin, cut a small notch at the top. This will support the elevator pushrod. Also make sure the elevator control horn is cut down so it is only 1/8-inch high only leaving the hole exposed at the same elevation as the bottom of the elevator. I'll post a pic later today.
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Old Feb 13, 2004, 07:11 PM
electron liberator
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United States, GA, Suwanee
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What servos would you guys recommend for the filip 400RG? Does it need the HS-81MG's for the ailerons and elevator? I was planning on using something fairly small for the rudder like one of the small Cirrus servos or an HS-55.
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Old Feb 13, 2004, 07:29 PM
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use a pair of HS-85MG servos for the ailerons. Spend the extra few bucks over the 81 as they superior to them. The Mpi-50HP is great for the elevator (if installed in the fin) and anything tiny, old, and cheap for the rudder. HS-55 would be tossing money away unless you have one laying around.
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 07:25 AM
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A shelf for the battery gives you lots of room, too.
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by flyingdogtwo
A shelf for the battery gives you lots of room, too.
Servos in the factory shelf works w/ a smaller pack, say 8 Kans, which limits you to <20 amp motors. But moving up to >25 amp motors and C or 4/5A size cells, stick the servos in the rear of the fuse. It is a must.
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 07:51 AM
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Filip Rudder Servo

Profile a piece of balsa to match the fuse contour and epoxy it in for a servo mounting point. The goop the servo on its side as far back as you can go, but first remember to install the pushrod w/ the z-bend on the control horn:
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 07:55 AM
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Filip Elevator Servo

Goop it in the fin as high as it can go. Keep the pushrod short and square to the servo output shaft and arm:
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 08:03 AM
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Filip Elevator Servo Location

The servo is located here:
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Old Feb 14, 2004, 08:07 AM
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Filip Elevator Control Horn

Cut it down so it is tiny nub. Cut a matching slot in the elevator. No need to cut all the way through the elevator. Med CA works fine.
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