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Old Aug 14, 2013, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renatoa View Post
The Taranis "pots" are connected directly to processor ADC inputs, no amp, just a RC for filtering.
They can afford this solution without an AMP, because the ADC has 12 bits resolution. Only 1/4 of the pot range is used, thus 1024 steps (10 bits) from the whole 4096 ADC range.
This solution can't be used with 9X, because the 8 bit ADC don't allow the luxury to waste stick steps this way, a 60 degree pot or an amp is required for such low res ADC.

9X has 10 bit A/D.

I though I read there were amps on the Taranis to extend the range of the pots?
http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewto...olution#p57478

You can see the pot PCB in the images here, which appear to have op amps on them:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6855

Has a schematic for the Taranis been posted anywhere yet, or will it only happen once the radios get in the hands of those interested in doing more involved mods?
(The core developers might have signed NDAs?)

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 03:53 AM
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I have both Taranis board and schematic, see my blog for pictures good enough to build yourself schematic , and there are no amps. You can follow traces coming from pots connectors directly to processor, and RC filters are right near connectors.
And you are right, schematic is under NDA, sorry.
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 05:07 AM
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The amps appear to be right inside the stick assemblies. You can clearly see the ICs in the images Julez posted
Sort of silly not to release the schematics, they will be out there before long anyway.
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex1 View Post
I think an Alarm value of 17 for SWR was mentioned earlier ?

Mine shows 0 or 1
I get 0 or 1 if the antenna points to the left and around 16 if it points to the right.

/Ville
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
The amps appear to be right inside the stick assemblies. You can clearly see the ICs in the images Julez posted
Sort of silly not to release the schematics, they will be out there before long anyway.
Yeah, those circuits aren't part of Frsky schematic...
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 09:35 AM
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Really missing accessible A1 and A2 on the X8R ....

However. as X8R has an internal A1 reading Rx Batt. volts
I'm wondering if we could Hack the X8R Rx
and make A1 externally accessible like the older Rx's ?

This would be ideal to me, I only fly electric models
and Rx supply volts is pretty meaningless.
I'd much rather have access to A1 and have it do
Flight pack voltage.

I know some have Tx schematics, but does anyone have X8R schematics ?
I'd like a look to see if it's possible to wire A1 externally.
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 11:55 AM
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This is how i tried to fix the gimbal centering issue.
Before i did't this i had -+3 ailerons, -+2 on elvator and upto +8 on the rudder?

These are all the parts:


1. I fixed the backplate, which could move a little bit with dubble sided tape.


2. Then I fixed the axle with tape, as other already suggested. And put it back into the gimbal


3. The pot also got some tape on that side which goes onto the backplate.
The whole assebly should be glapfree. I could see any movement though a lens.


4. The other backplate is fixed like that:



5. The other pot is taped aswell.


It didn't do much with the cap and the plastic holders.

This did help SOME but there is still not as good as some other have said.
I got it down to +-1 on everything...
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 12:19 PM
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+/- 1 is better than my XP 9303!!

vrey cool.

Any thought if the double sided tape might loosen?

Are certain brands better than others?

Maybe extreme but should we glue it?

How long should this fix last?

Any thought on what would happen with the glue if left in direct sunlight for a time?

Frank
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly2High View Post
+/- 1 is better than my XP 9303!!
Any thought if the double sided tape might loosen?
Are certain brands better than others?
Maybe extreme but should we glue it?
How long should this fix last?
Any thought on what would happen with the glue if left in direct sunlight for a time?
I will check much it matters, but on my DLG in the mid the derivation was about 4mm...

Don't know how much the type of tape matters. I think this should will hold quite good because the force inside there is very low, so the tape should take that very well.

It depends on the glue and how the uv resistance is. But does that matter here?
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Old Aug 14, 2013, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flydroid View Post
This is how i tried to fix the gimbal centering issue.
Before i did't this i had -+3 ailerons, -+2 on elvator and upto +8 on the rudder?
...

This did help SOME but there is still not as good as some other have said.
I got it down to +-1 on everything...
Flydroid,

Can you clarify what you mean by +3, +- 2 and +8? is that 3.0, 2.0 and 8.0 on the channel monitor screen? Or, is it 0.3, 0.2 and 0.8 on the same screen?

Thanks,

Luis
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Old Aug 15, 2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julez View Post
As I like both eneloop cells and long flight times, I made a new 8s battery for my Taranis...
What is the material you used to bridge across cells?
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 03:09 AM
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Found new packs that fits taranis bay:
http://www.rcdetails.info/Details.aspx?id=1115
http://www.rcdetails.info/Details.aspx?id=1375

However, these are propulsion packs, and don't like being full charged for long time. There is a simple solution, charge them on LiIon program instead LiPo, will charge them to only 4.1V instead 4.2V.
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turner2 View Post
What is the material you used to bridge across cells?
I think it was tin plated steel. I got a rather long strip when I ordered 50 A123 cells from ebay some time ago.

But 0.3mm Copper sheetmetal will also work.
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 11:50 AM
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Okay, Thank you.
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 12:42 PM
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SOme have used copper desoldering braid . Can be found anywhere electronic supplies are found, even RadioShack.
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