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Old Nov 20, 2013, 06:02 AM
kha
openLRSng haxor
Finland, Espoo
Joined Mar 2011
2,017 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by grunff View Post
Can you please send me a link to your blog. I would like to see taranis schematic.

Have a nice day.
Schematic is so simple that one can figure pretty much everything needed from opentx code alone.
:-D
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Old Nov 20, 2013, 06:12 AM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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You could figure out what the inputs and outputs are from the source, but there is a lot more to a schematic than that.
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Old Nov 20, 2013, 06:14 AM
Registered User
Romania, Dolj, Craiova
Joined Sep 2007
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^^^ ... and is under NDA, sorry

Do you intend to clone a Chinese product ?
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Old Nov 20, 2013, 06:20 AM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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Schematic needs to be put out there for hacking purposes.
Anyone wanting to clone the radio would find it a trivial task to figure it out anyway, so the NDA makes no sense
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Old Nov 21, 2013, 01:37 PM
Happy FPV flyer
Kilrah's Avatar
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFixit View Post
Is the Taranis safe in this area, or do I have to add somme sort of protection (Diode or zener diode)?
Trainer input has a 100 Ohm series resistor, with a diode to VCC.This goes directly to the CPU output pin, and thropugh a transistor buffer to the CPU input pin.
Positive should not be a problem (at least for the Taranis, maybe not so much for the slave radio).
Negative might not be very healthy, would need to check if the CPU is OK with negative voltages on Hi-Z configured pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
Anyone wanting to clone the radio would find it a trivial task to figure it out anyway
Same for a hacker, nothing a pair of eyes and a continuity tester won't find out
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Old Nov 21, 2013, 07:55 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilrah View Post


Same for a hacker, nothing a pair of eyes and a continuity tester won't find out
What about a lazy hacker ?

Details of things like how the audio circuit is powered for example could help in figuring out how to address the noise.

This is a hack thread, but the lack of schematics is keeping the number of hacks way down.
No haptic yet for example, something a lot of guys would probably want to add.
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Old Nov 21, 2013, 09:11 PM
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ChristianGeek's Avatar
United States, CA, Carlsbad
Joined Sep 2013
323 Posts
FrSky Taranis hardware hacks

A couple of questions regarding the module bay pins:

1. I'm only measuring 2.3V between voltage and ground...does that seem right?

2. Does anyone know what the high/low range is for the PPM and S.PORT pins (I don't have easy access to a logic analyzer).

Thanks.
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Old Nov 22, 2013, 08:58 AM
Happy FPV flyer
Kilrah's Avatar
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Sep 2006
4,898 Posts
PPM is battery voltage through 10k. SPORT would accept up to 5V I reckon.
2.3V likely suggests you have external module turned OFF, and as such supply is off as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
No haptic yet for example, something a lot of guys would probably want to add.
http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewto...p=63998#p63982

The devs don't hang out on RCG much.
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Old Nov 22, 2013, 04:20 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2013
28 Posts
New Power Switch Board

Aloft now stocks the new power switch board capable to charge 2000mAH.
What's the difference between the new and the old?
Can old one be modified (replacing voltage divider resistors?) to handle 2000mAH cells?
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Old Nov 23, 2013, 05:43 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Innisfil
Joined Aug 2010
507 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by svjerk View Post
Aloft now stocks the new power switch board capable to charge 2000mAH.
What's the difference between the new and the old?
Can old one be modified (replacing voltage divider resistors?) to handle 2000mAH cells?
I just did the swap tonight and it's a totally new PCB with some extra components. It's so cheap, I'd just buy the replacement switch.

Cheers
Tim
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Old Nov 23, 2013, 06:09 PM
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Canada, ON, Innisfil
Joined Aug 2010
507 Posts
I think my next hack will be to install a removable antenna on the Taranis, so I can use the antenna from the External Tx module and simply screw it on and off.

http://www.alofthobbies.com/2db-module-antenna.html

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Old Nov 23, 2013, 10:08 PM
Chris Khosravi - KK4LJH
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United States, GA, Atlanta
Joined Jul 2004
880 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorvald View Post
I think my next hack will be to install a removable antenna on the Taranis, so I can use the antenna from the External Tx module and simply screw it on and off.

http://www.alofthobbies.com/2db-module-antenna.html

That was the first modification I did with my Taranis:
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Old Nov 23, 2013, 11:20 PM
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Canada, ON, Innisfil
Joined Aug 2010
507 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gymnast View Post
That was the first modification I did with my Taranis:
Awesome! Can you provide any details on how you did it?

Did you manage to find a connector that fit snug in the throat of the old antenna mount or did you have to glue it in and futz with it? (I assume its an SMA correct?)

That looks perfect!
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Old Nov 24, 2013, 05:53 PM
Sparky "Electrics Rule"
bobf's Avatar
Mission, BC Canada
Joined Jul 2002
3,782 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
First thing I did to my Taranis today was swap the momentary with the 2 way switch on the other side. Didn't feel like soldering in any wires, so here is how it can be done.

1) open radio
2) remove the nuts holding the two switches in place.
3) remove the switches and unplug the connectors from each.
4) plug the switches in to the opposite side.
5) re-install them. Keep the connectors facing left as before to get the correct switching directions.


Now to keep the programming the same: (Momentary switch has some special applications in opentx)

6)Carefully unplug connector from P8 on the RF daughter board (top one on the right side) pulling on alternate ends seems to be the best way to remove it.
7) Swap the two wires shown, first from the left with third from the right.
(Use the tip of an xacto, small jewellers screwdriver to hold up the plastic tab while pulling on the wire) Make sure they are in all the way and the right way up when you re-install them.
8) plug back in the connector. Support the free end of the PCB while rocking it in end to end as you did when removing it. Make sure it is fully seated.

Done.

Ultimately i will replace the momentary with a SPDT ON-OFF-Momentary switch, that will probably require some soldering.

While I had it open I used a bit of hot melt to fasten the wires to the switches to keep them away from the gimbals. My throttle was hanging up on them a bit.
Sounds simple enough. Frsky should do that on all mode 2 radios. Got love the Taranis.
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Old Nov 24, 2013, 06:25 PM
Registered User
USA, WA, Olympia
Joined Jan 2001
1,239 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilrah View Post
PPM is battery voltage through 10k. SPORT would accept up to 5V I reckon.
2.3V likely suggests you have external module turned OFF, and as such supply is off as well.



http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewto...p=63998#p63982

The devs don't hang out on RCG much.
Very cool. Thanks Kilrah.
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