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Old Jul 09, 2013, 05:23 PM
Man from Atlantis
Sub culture's Avatar
London
Joined Nov 2003
905 Posts
Couple of things worth thinking about with brushless.

Sensored motors are generally only supplied for the car boys, and they're always 500 size motors. This will work for some but not others. They are vastly overpowered for any sub, most boats only need 50 watts or less of power, and these motors tend to be in the 150watt and higher bracket.

There are many smaller outrunenr motors available which are better suited to submarine use, unfortunately they are unsensored.

Sensorless control is pretty good, certainly fine if you like to scoot around the lake, and aren't too bothered about very slow speed running, but in no way does it match up to a good brushed motor and ESC combination for control finesse.

Retrofitting sensors to outrunners motors is possible, but only well suited to those who are a dab hand with a soldering iron. If you want to find out details of this, have a gander at folk fitting large outrunners to bicycles- they are retrofitting sensors to them to make them compatible with the throttle controls.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/vie...hp?f=2&t=15686
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Old Jul 18, 2013, 12:57 AM
Registered User
Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
831 Posts
Tsenecal did you use David Merriman's fittings kit on your Sculpin?
If not and you used the kit's stock rudders and stern planes can you discuss how you did it? Thanks
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Old Jul 18, 2013, 07:38 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,583 Posts
i did not use merrimans fittings kit.

i used a combination of brass fittings, square brass tubing, and small brass bolts. the brass tubing is glued into the plane/rudder using 24 hour marine epoxy (system 3 t88 epoxy), replacing the original plastic piece. the rear diving planes have a brass tube at the hull end, and a #70 brass bolt holding them in place at the outside end. although merriman states that the rudders have to have their pin position moved, i didn't do that, and they seem to work fine. inside the hull, a dubro collar with a brass servo horn is fitted to the brass tube. the original holes for the original pins on the diving planes were enlarged to fit the new brass tubing. the rudders had plastic tubing inserted into the original holes to reduce their size to the size needed for the brass tubing. the forward diving planes are fixed, and do not move.

i used the brass bolt on the rear diving planes because i want to be able to remove everything if a repair or maintenance is required.

I will try to get photos of the stern section and appendages at this weekend's regatta. the plastic parts are thick enough, and when basically filled with system three T88 epoxy to mount the brass tubing, they appear to be strong enough to handle the forces well enough. time will tell if they need to be upgraded.
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Last edited by tsenecal; Jul 18, 2013 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2013, 02:50 PM
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Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
276 Posts
Extremely well done, Tim! I admire your work greatly.
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Old Sep 16, 2013, 08:35 AM
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Adelaide,Australia
Joined Dec 2009
2,370 Posts
G'day mate,

Is the G factor brass prop threaded? or just bare bore? Thinking of getting one for my Skippy (As of Sunday I have the Revell version) Am pretty sure I will do USS Shark....

Just gathering research info (and parts...) before I commence any building.

Cheers Bruce
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Old Sep 16, 2013, 05:30 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,583 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyCruser9 View Post
G'day mate,

Is the G factor brass prop threaded? or just bare bore? Thinking of getting one for my Skippy (As of Sunday I have the Revell version) Am pretty sure I will do USS Shark....

Just gathering research info (and parts...) before I commence any building.

Cheers Bruce
the G factor brass prop is an exact knock-off of the original plastic part, which means the "hole" in the prop is actually square, approximately 1/8" x 1/8" (slightly more than 3mm x 3mm) it is intended to be installed on the static model using the same parts the plastic prop would use.

I milled a 4mm stainless steel shaft to fit the hole in the prop, and then glued the prop to the shaft.
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Old Sep 18, 2013, 03:14 AM
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Adelaide,Australia
Joined Dec 2009
2,370 Posts
Cheers Mate!!

I am getting the Caswell fittings kit so I shall use that prop then....for now! I might get George Sitek to make me a shiny brass one later!! This will be my first foray into subs so I will be keeping it a simple as possible.

Cheers Bruce

PS I managed to pick up a Graupner/JR MX22 and 5 Rx's(3 7ch and 2 6ch)in excellent condition which I will be using in the boat.
I shall keep an I out for the really cool 10ch and 12ch Rx's for other special projects.....
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Old Sep 18, 2013, 03:17 AM
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Adelaide,Australia
Joined Dec 2009
2,370 Posts
Also it really amazes me the creativity different modellers use to make these projects function.

Looking forward to further installments of your build!
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Old Sep 18, 2013, 08:22 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
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I am not sure if he is going to add more to the build.
These photos are Tim's Sculpin running at Keystone CO this past Summer.
It was a beautiful sub to watch run.
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