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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:03 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
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Norbert Brüggen - Modell-Uboot-Spezialitäten - Delta

Okay,

I am far enough along on this sucker that i can see the light at the end of the tunnel, so I have a few photos to post.

Alot of people have built this sub, and tycare had an excellent build thread going a few years back, ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=delta ) so i won't be going very deep on this thread, but if you have any questions, i will definitely answer them, however, i will primarily only touch on the areas where i deviated from the standard build... (or goofed up)
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:06 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
first couple of pictures show major items from the kit, and how it compares to my other 1:8 scale research sub (what a difference, huh?)
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:23 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
major work proceeds on the construction of the hull... until i discovered one minor flaw... I had built the front resin piece rotated 180 degrees. the submarine has 2 windows on the port side and three starboard. my model had it opposite.

what to do...


thought about it, and the solution was relatively simple... since that part of the model is resin, i can add new resin to the part with little effort, so i filled the port side porthole with resin, shaved and sanded the outside to remove any remaining indication of the previous porthole, and then used a .040 thick piece of ABS glued with CA Gel to match the weld bead on the starboard side, making a new porthole on the starboard side.

what a relief. it came out much better than anticipated. the CA Gel bead looks the same as the other 4.
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:44 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
okay, most of you know that i am a brushless bigot, so the whole time i am working on this, i am trying to convince myself that using the brushed motors on the pump and main motor are fine, no need to get worked up because they aren't brushless. then i found this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._10_1_12_.html


for less than $25, it had one thing that would let me drop a standard 1:10 scale brushless car motor into the delta: the programming card gave me the ability to set a governor for both max forward speed and max reverse speed at 10% intervals. this allowed me to take an 1800kvm 21 turn rock crawler motor and effectively make it a 540kvm motor. after emailing norbert, he let me know that the original motor spun the prop at 4500 to 5000 rpm, so that was my target for the new motor. I ended up getting the hobbyking ESC and the LRP crawler motor. using a 2 cell lipo and the governor at 30% gave me 4300 rpm at the prop. I also didn't like the way that the initial design had the water bladder/bag sitting on top of all the electronics, constantly getting mangled every time i took out the tech rack, and with the big heavy battery on the bottom. major rework of the tech rack now. Since the original system is designed for 12 volts, I used two batteries. a 3 cell lipo for all the 12 volt items (lights, and ballast pump) and a 2 cell for the receiver and new brushless main motor. I rebuilt the tech rack so that it is two layers, the electrical is now above everything else, with the batteries on the main level, and almost 2 pounds of lead weight under the rack, with the water bladder at the very bottom, taped to the lead.
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:52 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
with all the structural changes inside, it is now time to get the boat finished.

outside gets a coat of white primer first, then a color coat. I found that tamiya spray acrylic TS34 "Camel Yellow" is a really good match for the color in the photos of the Delta i have. then it is time to add the 18 porthole windows.. I was able to source the black gooey caulk type adhesive Norbert recommends for the windows. that was a mess.
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Old Jun 04, 2013, 11:56 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
if you look closely at the last photo, you will see that the hull is wet. I spent several weekends putting the sealed hull in the "submarine testing facility" to fix the leaky windows. the problem was that you couldn't tell if the black goo actually had a good seal against the plexiglass windows. they had to be individually sealed one by one with thin CA from both the inside and outside before i could even begin ballasting and testing.
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 12:00 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
okay,

the boat is in the water. this is the 2012 "Colorado Crew" annual regatta in june of that year. the Delta was in the water for about 3 minutes total. I discovered that something was wrong with the main seal on the forward diving plane. about 3 tablespoons of water leaked through that penetration in that 3 minute timeframe. you will also note that it isn't submerged. I didn't have it ballasted low enough in surface trim to completely submerge when the ballast tank was full. major work still needed before...
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 12:05 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
the 2012 Subcommittee Sub Regatta.

no better way than an "acid test" or a "trial by fire" to get one's butt hustling to get those problems with ballast and leaks fixed.

it debuted to better performance at the regatta, and a few people commented on it... however it was discovered that my attempt to fix the forward diving plane leak was only about 70% successful. It was also a pain in the behind to open the sub up to work on it, I had to wrench the servo rod everytime i wanted to pull the tech rack. I still got about 3 teaspoons a day with about an hour running per day. good news was that the 2 batteries carried more than enough juice for a day's run-time, and the lights worked!

some video from Carmel:
delta submersible (2 min 8 sec)
(ever tried to steer a sub and shoot video at the same time?)
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 12:18 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
so, over the winter, only one task remained: fix the leak. I really didn't like the fact that the diving plane servo was also not directly attached to the hull like the rudder servo was to the rear portion of the sub, it added a lot of slop to the connection, and as stated earlier, it made maintenance of the tech rack difficult. I redesigned the front seal to be as close to the rear seal as possible. using a "Mike's Subworks" shaft seal, i changed the forward/aft movement of the rod to a rotary motion like the rudder. I built a bracket for the diving plane servo, and also replaced the diving plane servo with a smaller mini servo. the bracket is epoxied to the pvc hull, making the servo a "permanent" fixture that doesn't move around with the tech rack. a rod goes from the servo to the shaft, shaft penetrates hull, then a rod goes from the shaft to the horn on the diving plane, identical in theory to the way the rudder works. a triangular wedge was cut into the pvc tube behind the ring where the forward resin molding is glued to the pvc tube, allowing all the mechanical parts to be hidden underneath the metal deck piece on the outside of the hull.
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 12:20 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
so here we are, last week in the "submarine testing facility" with the new modifications, and some decals and details added to the sub, the only remaining details to add are the cabling for the floodlight and camera, as well as the electrical hull penetrations. the presentation is now concluded and open for questions
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 02:41 AM
TheyreComingToTakeMeAway!
derk's Avatar
USA, ID, Coeur D'Alene
Joined Dec 2003
5,481 Posts
excellent build, looks like a fun kit to put together.
is the front nose area behind the large windows a dry section?
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 08:24 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by derk View Post
excellent build, looks like a fun kit to put together.
is the front nose area behind the large windows a dry section?
nope.

both the cone shaped area behind the motor, and the cone-ish shaped nose area are free flooding. they ARE the ballast tanks on the real sub.
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 09:15 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
448 Posts
Really like your build! The black stuff you mention was that an aquarium sealer? Years ago, just after the wheel was invented, I had to repair my fish tanks with a messy black sealant, once it was set, it worked great.

Thank you for posting these!
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Old Jun 05, 2013, 09:57 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,603 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchalfant View Post
Really like your build! The black stuff you mention was that an aquarium sealer? Years ago, just after the wheel was invented, I had to repair my fish tanks with a messy black sealant, once it was set, it worked great.

Thank you for posting these!
no its this weird caulk stuff called sikaflex. its a semi elastic general use polyurethane sealant/adhesive that cures when exposed to humidity. I can see why Norbert thinks it is good for this situation, but it ended up being expensive ($15 a tube after shipping) and it came in the standard caulking gun size tube, so i used about 1% of that total for the windows on the sub.
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