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Old Jan 18, 2004, 11:00 PM
Straight up is all I ask
Fairfield Ct USA
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Fiasco next time dont cut out the ailerons till after you glass the wing .
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 12:35 AM
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Good suggestion. I left the elevator attached to the rear stab after learning from the wing.
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 02:42 AM
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I remember why I trimmed out my ailerons before glassing!

I wanted the aileron control linkage underneath the glass. I put the linkage in, and then filled the slot and all panel lines with some NHP white micro-filler (horizon, extremely easy to work with).

So, it was necessary for me to remove the ailerons.

I also glassed the ailerons seperately with the glass folded over the trailing edge. I think I will continue to do it this way because it worked really well. I also clipped about 3/8" of the clear plastic tubing for the rear control surfaces and put it into the aileron, then slid the aileron control wire into that. The aileron is much sturdier then I'm used to with my previous GWS planes and it deflects evenly across the length of the aileron now.

I definately added some weight to the plane. I dont have a scale so I have no clue how much weight I've added but I can feel it when I pick the plane up.

I'm not to concerned about bumping up the wingloading a bit. I have all kinds of power to pull the plane through the sky. I've easily put twice this much weight in epoxy repairs to my last mustang and it flew great.

Thats one smooth 109!

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Last edited by Fiasco; Jan 19, 2004 at 03:00 AM.
Old Jan 19, 2004, 02:54 AM
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Any guesses as to how far forward I will have to put my tanic 3S 2200 to get the plane to balance? Will be a razor2500 in a gws300 gearbox out front.
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 10:07 AM
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hey fiasco, i have an me109 i am about to start as well. could you describe your aileron modification again? also, did you find it hard to glass all the little pieces that poke out from the fuse?
-beanie
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 05:44 PM
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Beanie,

I'll assume you have done a GWS plane before. You know how sloppy the ailerons get after awhile. The aileron control linkage wire thats poked into the aileron eventually gets pretty loose.

What I did was I clipped off 3/8 inch of the clear white tubing that comes with the kit (for the elevator and rudder control wire to slide through) and I glued that into the aileron. I then slid the aileron control wire into that. Now the aileron is very tight with little play.

As far as glassing the ailerons, I trimmed them out before I glassed them. I then folded the fiberglass cloth over the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of my ailerons on other GWS birds was always getting dinged up so I hope this helps with that.

With those changes my ailerons now deflect evenly across the entire surface of the aileron when you move them.
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Old Jan 20, 2004, 04:00 AM
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I have decided to try and duplicate Rohwer's paint scheme (JG3)
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Old Jan 20, 2004, 09:20 AM
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Jakarta
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Glassing Thread

Dear All,
I tried looking for the instruction on glassing the plane, Bbut I could not find it. Can someone show me the way for glassing the GWS plane? As far as I know, I should get some thin fiberglass cloth and put it on the plan. Is there a special glue to stick the cloth onto the plane? Thanks.



Kris
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Old Jan 20, 2004, 03:10 PM
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Minwax Polycrylic from walmart. Lay the fiberglass on the surface and paint over it with Minwax water based polycrylic. Use a squeegee to remove excess minwax.
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Old Jan 20, 2004, 06:26 PM
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Jakarta
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Thank you

Thanks for the reply. Is there another name for Minwax Polycrylic? Or another substance that can be used?
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Old Jan 21, 2004, 04:34 AM
know it all
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Re: Thank you

this thread shows it all step-by-step:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...x&pagenumber=1

the secret to doing this is to strech out the minwax all the way, any excess will just add weight.

Quote:
Originally posted by tjongkristian
Thanks for the reply. Is there another name for Minwax Polycrylic? Or another substance that can be used?
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Old Jan 21, 2004, 06:46 AM
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anybody fly one of these glassed planes yet.....posibly the formosa with the stock 350C?.....I would like to know before i glass mine...
Thanx!
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Old Jan 21, 2004, 08:53 AM
know it all
Miami, Fl
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You really dont want to add weight to a stock formosa, it would drastically affect vertical performance.. every gram counts with the stock setup. If you go brushless then you have more leeway.

The stock setup with lipos has decent vertical performance, but its marginal.. no reserves. Sweet with 3s packs but watch out for the motor, you have to use the heatsink.

Quote:
Originally posted by gws fanatic
anybody fly one of these glassed planes yet.....posibly the formosa with the stock 350C?.....I would like to know before i glass mine...
Thanx!
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Old Jan 21, 2004, 08:59 AM
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what kinda brushless do u suggest? A HiMaxx 2015 & 2025 Brushless Motor to a GWS gearbox perhaps? Or maybee a razor 400 (but what gearbox to use?)
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Last edited by gws fanatic; Jan 21, 2004 at 09:03 AM.
Old Jan 21, 2004, 09:53 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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hi gws fanatic,
i fly my formosa on the stock 350 with an 8cell kan 1050 pack. she gained 1.6oz after fiberglassing with 0.75 and paint. that was first attempt at glassing, so i'm sure you can get it way under that if you have had some experience. she seems to fly well like this without evidence of being underpowered.
with regard to your brushless question, either one (razor 400 or himaxx) will fit into a gws gearbox 300/350 size gearbox without any problems. i have a razor 2500, himaxx 2015-4100 and himaxx 2025-4200 that all fit into the gws gearboxes. in my lowly opinion, the himaxx is a better deal because 1) the razors keep going up in price and 2) the razors are back-ordered everywhere (i've still got a backordered razor 2500 from nov 11 that i just cancelled).
-beanie
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