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Old Jan 13, 2004, 03:15 PM
My hangar is,... "almost" full
No Step's Avatar
Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
3,978 Posts
Trim paint on Monokote/Ultracoat

Been modeling for decades and decades but never tried painting trim on Monokote or Ultracoat. I've trim out a rather large area (in red) on my Volksplane with trim sheet but can't seem to get away from having many small air bubbles. I tried using Windex under the trim sheet to enable me to sweep out all the air but it didn't work as well as I had hoped. When it dried I still had bubbles.

Anyone have success painting trim on film covering? Does it scratch off?

Fred G.
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Old Jan 13, 2004, 11:01 PM
Love my Pike Superior!
averen's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Jul 2003
1,709 Posts
When I'm doing trim I generally use Monokote Solvent. You just put it on the underside of the top layer of film and press it against the second...it forms a great bond and you have some working time to get rid of air bubbles...no need for a heat iron either.

Averen
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Old Jan 13, 2004, 11:25 PM
My hangar is,... "almost" full
No Step's Avatar
Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
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Oh thanks, I'll try it. I never thought of that.
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Old Jan 14, 2004, 06:06 PM
My hangar is,... "almost" full
No Step's Avatar
Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
3,978 Posts
I tried the Monokote Solvent. It worked much better. I used it to lay down Monokote over Monokote. I didn't use Monokote Trim Sheet. Since it was a large piece (24 x 2 3/4), I did it progressively rather than laying it down all in one shot. (I tried that and had to remove it. It dried too quickly.) I have hardly any bumps at all, smaller pieces would be simple.

I also did a test on scrap Monokote by scuffing it up with steel wool and painting with Krylon (for electric planes). It did excellent as well. I couldn't scratch it off after drying 24 hours. But It didn't have the same gloss as Monokote. I don't know what would happen if you had to go over that area with a iron or gun to tigthen up the covering though.

I'm happy with the Trim Solvent. Thanks.

Fred G.
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Last edited by blaze; Jan 14, 2004 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2004, 09:33 AM
Love my Pike Superior!
averen's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Jul 2003
1,709 Posts
Glad it worked out for you!

Averen
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Old Jan 18, 2004, 05:53 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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I'm using thin sign making vinyl. The seller says it is actually porous and so the bubbles will disappear. We'll see...
It does stick to solite well and it's not very opaque.
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 11:30 AM
My hangar is,... "almost" full
No Step's Avatar
Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
3,978 Posts
Let us know if it indeed is porous. I've used the vinyl from small businesses that cater to modelers, but isn't porous.

I also tried the Monkote Solvent on Solite: Ultracoat and Monookote ON TO Solite and it didn't seem to work. The edges curled some and it didn't stick well after 24 hours.
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Old Jan 19, 2004, 11:34 AM
Love my Pike Superior!
averen's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Jul 2003
1,709 Posts
The Monokote Solvent generally only works when it's monokote to monokote...I haven't found anything else that it will work on.
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Old Jan 22, 2004, 10:09 AM
Use the 4S Luke
feathermerchant's Avatar
USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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Another technique on the vinyl is to wet the surface with soapy water so you can slide the vinyl around and squeegee the bubbles out before it dries.

The trapped bubbles do seem to be getting smaller...slowly
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Old Jan 29, 2004, 01:35 PM
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United States, PA, Beaver
Joined Sep 2001
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I've scuffed the surface of the covering lightly with a scotch bright pad, and cleaned with aceton/denatured alcohol Then painted with normal Rustolium. Even after 10 years, the paint hasn't come off. THis was on a glow plane. For my electrics I use the Krylon fusion. No need to scuff. Stays tight. I hear this is not fuel proof. Haven't tested as I haven't built a glow plane in about 2 years.
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Old Jan 30, 2004, 01:10 PM
Aerial Shutterbug
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San Mateo, California, United States
Joined Nov 2001
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcav8r2
I've scuffed the surface of the covering lightly with a scotch bright pad, and cleaned with aceton/denatured alcohol Then painted with normal Rustolium. Even after 10 years, the paint hasn't come off. THis was on a glow plane. For my electrics I use the Krylon fusion. No need to scuff. Stays tight. I hear this is not fuel proof. Haven't tested as I haven't built a glow plane in about 2 years.
Which covering exactly did you do this on? MC or UC? I am looking to do some trim work on Ultracote Lite myself.

Thanks,
Roger
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Old Jan 30, 2004, 05:10 PM
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United States, PA, Beaver
Joined Sep 2001
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Well I did this on older Monocote. The forumal has seemd to change. I no longer use Monocote as it seems to shatter after a few years. Since I switched to Ultracote, I haven't had a plane where I needed to paint. I did use the Fusion on SoLite this past summer, and it worked GREAT. Looks like it is part of the covering. Misted the first coat, and then did a heavier 2nd coat. I forget how long I let it dry between coats, but it wasn't too long. I also have it on some open areas and it looks just as good as on sheeted surfaces.
I don't see why it(Fusion) won't work on the UCLite though. Maybe try a test patch. This is what I did for testing on the Solite. I covered a mock up of an open and sheeted surface. Skuffed half, and then painted strips of various paints. Found the Fusion stuck the best by far, and it didn't need skuffed. Testers ModelMaster was a distant second amd that was after I skuffed it. I didn't try Rustolium.
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Old Feb 01, 2004, 11:13 AM
Marion
USA, NC, Hillsborough
Joined Oct 2003
1,020 Posts
I like Xylol (get it at your local "home depot") for sticking Monocoat to Monocoat. It sticks as tight as the Monocoat solvent, but is less "aggressive" in use. It doesn't make as much a mess as the Monocoat solvent -- no bleading of the color from the bottom of the Monocoat. Besides, it is LOTS less expensive :-)
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Old Feb 02, 2004, 10:38 PM
My hangar is,... "almost" full
No Step's Avatar
Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
3,978 Posts
I just noticed today that Monokote's LustreKote matching paint says it can be painted onto Monokote. I thought it was for painting things like fiberglass cowls to match adjacent Monokote. They say scuff it with steel wool, clean, and paint. That would solve my disimilar gloss problem of using Krylon. I've used LustreKote to paint a fiberglass fuselage to match Monokote wings. I wasn't impressed how the paint comes out of the can. It's a very course spray, doesn't layout nice on the model, but it ends up smoooth when dry. I tried everything to get a nice spray out of the can,... heated it under running hot water, warm room air temperature, etc,.. still sprayed poorly but nice when dry. Don't know how it could apply well to Monokote without getting a thick coat on it.

Fred G.
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Last edited by blaze; Feb 03, 2004 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Feb 03, 2004, 08:49 AM
RJB
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Joined Oct 2003
135 Posts
You can apply paint to MonoKote or UltraCote. I've been doing it for a few years now with good results. The surface first needs to be scuffed, I use sanding pads from my local auto paint store. Don't use 400 wet/dry as it very easily cuts through the covering. Before painting, wipe the surface with alcohol to remove all dirt and finger oils. I've used LustreKote and Krylon paints and haven't had any problems with either.

To answer the question about shrinking MonoKote after painting it: yes you can. You'll need to use a heat gun (not an iron) on a low heat setting. Don't heat one spot for very long or you'll blister the paint, keep the heat gun moving. You'll see the paint start to get glossy as the heat softens it. Hope this helps!

Cheers!
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