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Old Apr 21, 2013, 11:42 PM
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India, PB, Jalandhar
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Thunder Tiger GP 0.07 starting issues

My Thunder Tiger GP 0.07 is not able to sustain its RPM. Engine just dies after a few seconds of running. I have tried from 2 turns to four turns of HS needle adjust. Even the starting has been difficult.

I use 15% nitro 16% synthetic and 5% caster. Hand flick to start. The airbleed half open you can hear the woosh sound of air bleed at throttle 1/3 open. I am not sure where I am doing wrong any pointers from some one who has used TT GP 0.07 please help
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Old Apr 21, 2013, 11:48 PM
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India, PB, Jalandhar
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What is the glow plug which is supposed to be used with this engine. Normal medium or hot?. I am at 1500mtrs from MSL. I don't find the engine firing vigorously. The muffler gets flooded with oil while trying to start frequently requires to be drained by tillting engine.

Is that hand start no good and I need a conventinonal starter for starting ?
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 03:50 AM
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You are at a fairly high elevation. I used to live at 2,000m, now at 1,300m.

I would try a hot plug. If you are using an RC idle bar plug, I would try a non-idle bar standard plug. Also, remove your plug and check it. It may be coated with oil, preventing it getting hot to catalyse the fuel. I carefully use the end of a paper towel to wick up the excessive oil on the plug. Use of afterrun oils can compound this.

You can hand start the engine, but these smaller displacement engines are very easy to flood so you'll have to be careful. If flooded, I close the needle valve and keep flipping until it finally roars to life and burns the excessive fuel charge stored in the crankcase.

Once it is broken in, it becomes easier starting. There's a technique to it. It is more of an art than a science.
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 07:11 AM
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I always start the little ones at open throttle. All three of my .07's run at 3 to 3 1/2 turns. I noticed that the plug sticks out a bit far with the OS type mid reach plugs. I use two washers, or a short plug if you can get them. A hot would likely be best. I am using a 6 - 3 1/2" prop. Most of the little motors are hard to start. Make sure the muffler pressure is used. I use a starter on mine but make sure it isn't flooded. If it is dry I put my finger over the muffler while spinning the starter for maybe 1 second to prime. A lot of motors will just run off the prime if there is no fuel in the line, that is why I prime with the muffler. Just don't let the motor lock up and bend the rod, or break the crank. The .07 is an ok motor, but the crank to crankcase fit is a bit sloppy, and it doesn't always seal properly, so a bit of extra oil and nitro doesn't hurt, especially at higher elevations. The cost of extra nitro won't be noticeable on a little guy.
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 09:41 AM
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It sounds like it is not getting enough fuel.
Try closing the airbleed completly, and check that it does close the hole and not just bottoms out on the spring. They have made a litte design error here, I believe, in that they have a compensation in the throttle barrel already (with a smaller hole downstream). This compensation is enough and you don't need the adjustable airbleed on top of that.
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Has it ever run at *all* for more than just a few seconds? Sounds silly, but are you SURE you haven't reversed the fuel line and the pressure line? I did that one time on my test stand and I was pulling my hair out. When you fill the tank, it'll let enough fuel in the pressure line to run for just a few seconds. If the engine is in a plane and you're moving it around, it can get enough fuel in the pressure line to run a few seconds too and make you think it's running properly before it dies out.
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Old Apr 23, 2013, 09:33 AM
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I haven't seen it mentioned yet, so I'll ask: how old is your fuel? I've had small engines (usually Cox) get really cranky when I tried to use fuel that was not fresh.
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Old Apr 23, 2013, 09:57 PM
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Thanks all for the replies. The fuel is Year old all my cox and bigger Engines run nicely with it. It has surely run more than few seconds and may be a min or two. Exaust pressure line and fuel line are Correct. Even I doubt air bleed and glow plug. I am changing with a new Hot plug and trying. Can any suggest air bleed settings.
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Old Apr 23, 2013, 11:41 PM
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Regarding air bleed setting, I'd just leave it alone unless it is suspected to have been changed from factory. Normally, initial setting, unless specified otherwise in instructions, I would set the adjustment screw to about 1/2 closed when viewed through air bleed hole.

Air bleed in reference to starting is only effective when nearing idle setting. Otherwise, air bleed hole is covered by carburetor throttle barrel at settings higher than near idle. Therefore, until you can resolve the ability of the engine to run at full or near full throttle settings, the air bleed has no effect.

Once running is resolved, then the idle RPM set point and idle air bleed set point can be adjusted.
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundaramvelar View Post
Can any suggest air bleed settings.
My recommendations are the following;
- 10-15% Nitro, 20% all castor oil
- OS#8 plug
- idle screw fully in (check that it does block the airbleed hole completely)
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 08:23 AM
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The TT .07 does have a QC flaw with the front bushing having too much clearance. This can affect running consistancy. Mine seem to work ok anyway. I have repaired this and they don't seem any better really. Mine run fairly good and idle nicely. Norvels are better, but the TT is ok.
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 09:25 AM
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The TT07 can be improved on, and it will end up somewhere in between the Norvel .061 and .074 in terms power. Here is a little movie of one off mine on an APC 7x3 prop (but it prefers a 6x3 prop);

Thunder Tiger 07 modified (1 min 9 sec)
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 10:06 AM
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Impressive surfer_kris, to be able to get 3,500 RPM out of the TT GP-07, something this small in displacement.

If the TT GP-07 gives me problems, I could replace it with a 1.5 cc (.09 - .11) displacement engine. The OS Max10RC unmuffled weighs the same as the TT GP-07 (3.1 oz or 88 grams) and would fit.

However, its power might be disproportionate for the Q-Tee.
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 12:55 PM
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I think the original poster would just like to get his going properly rather than buying another motor. I think it is a fuel feed problem or leaky crankcase, old fuel? The AP .06 and .09 come to mind too if you can find them. Surfer Chris-is that the one with the Turbo plug head? I modified two of mine with opening the blocked ports and soldering up the bushing in the crankcase. One responded well and the other one didn't. I just wonder what shape your combustion chamber is and the distance of the squish band to the bottom of the plug. Maybe I can make a few heads up. I have an old Hardinge turret lathe so 3 heads don't take much longer to make than one.
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Old Apr 24, 2013, 03:01 PM
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Yes I was wondering about the comment about improving it too.

Jim
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