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Old Aug 11, 2013, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaygrovr View Post
I am a little confused with this entire thread. There are a lot of people posting a lot of things. Here are my questions.

1- What version firmware should I be loading on a 1.2 board?
2- Do i need to install the SM resistors across the fet legs? If so, what is the correct value?
3-To change settings while 2s-3s is connected i only use the tx rx and gnd pins on uart4?
4-What value is pot for autopan. I see 1-100k, does that mean any linear pot rated from 1k to 100k? or is the sweep value 100k at may and 1k at lowest only?

I am sorry if some if this is repeated, I just dont know who to trust. Also when posting instructions for flashing the pcbs, dont say "select hex file".. i should actually tell you which file to use.

Thanks
Jason
in order
1) any of the versions will run on the 1.2 board, there is only one set of source codes... the latest is 0.3g in the git repo and then in the original-src directory.
2) if you have a 1.2 board, and you do not have the resistors across the FET legs (as shown by the picture that exists in the thread), you need to add them - 3.3k as referenced early in the thread.
3) I'm not sure why people have so much problem with this. a) DO NOT- NEVER, EVER (especially if you don't have the 3.3k resistors across the FET legs) connect LiPo and uart 1 - put that firmly in your brain!!! b) when trying to program the PID's, etc with the GUI, you should be able to power the board from the UART4 connector only. TX-RX, RX-TX (may not need to swap depending on your usb/serial adapter), GND-GND, 3.3v - 3.3v (ONLY USE 3.3V usb/serial adapter), this connection powers the entire board (minus the motor drive/FETS/etc) and you can't put anything but 3.3v on that connection or you will blow up the processor. There is a way to do it with LiPo power (remembering NOT to do the a) rule above, but I wouldn't suggest it as I know of 2 others who didn't plug and unplug in the right order and blew up the FET's and the processor!!!
4) AutoPan is a special feature that you probably don't need to start with... I would suggest you ignore it until you get the board working and the camera stabilized. Then come back to it. The resistor as referenced is a 100K *variable* that should go to low resistance (1ohm as referenced, but I doubt that's critical), it's simply used with the ADC channels on the processor to read a value and act accordingly. But again, its not needed for initial setup and tuning.

I'm sorry that the thread isn't better organized, the originator seems to come and go at very infrequent intervals and he's the only one that can maintain the thread....

I suppose at some point, we'll need to fix that as there are a variety of people that try to help, but I know if they are like me, they seem to repeat the same information over and over again ...

Good luck, this is a very new board, it's got some growing pains, but once you get it working from all accounts it works *extremely well*...

Alan
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Old Aug 11, 2013, 10:20 PM
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Thanks Tom,

I got my order yesterday!

Looks great,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frisch View Post
For folks on the group order, I have all the PCBs and stencils, will get them to the post office tomorrow morning.

In the mean time, here's a tutorial for using those nifty new stencils:
http://eraviv.com/wp/?p=162
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 01:35 AM
ntc
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Can someone please tell me if the USB port on this board is usable, or do I need to buy a FTDI to usb or a USB to TTL cable? there is a lot of mixed messages. also an updated link to the appropriate cable will help out a lot of people.
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 02:20 AM
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the USB on board 1.2 does not work, on 1.3 it does but there is no software for it yet. So use something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/290956124724...84.m1439.l2649 on UART1
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 03:23 AM
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Poland
Joined Jul 2011
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ntc - current firmware makes no use of it, however hardware is working - so in the near future you can expect it will work via USB as well
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 04:31 AM
ntc
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for those interested in starting with this board. it can be bought from:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=111142270823
note that you will need to add resistors mentioned in first page.
the firmware update can be done through this adapter:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170946368201...84.m1497.l2649
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 04:42 AM
Ready to fly MRs
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Swanton, OH
Joined Jul 2007
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This looks like a good candidate for this board when it gets a little more mature.

http://www.himodel.com/multi_rotors/...3x_Motors.html
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntc View Post
Can someone please tell me if the USB port on this board is usable, or do I need to buy a FTDI to usb or a USB to TTL cable? there is a lot of mixed messages. also an updated link to the appropriate cable will help out a lot of people.
Just to clarify acc007's answer. The usb port can not be used to flash or update the PID settings at this time for either the 1.2 or 1.3 version of the board. The 1.3 version is capable but there is not code for this yet.

So yes you will need to buy a USB to TTL adapter to flash and use the GUI control to update the PID settings. This adapter does not have to be an FTDI chipset though. The FTDI chipset is very stable and has good driver support, but the CP2102 is also a good option and usually includes a 3v3 output as well. 3v3 is required during the flashing and PID updating process as you CANNOT power the board via the battery without causing damage.

Also please not that many of the adapters are mislabeled and you may have to try both tx->rx,rx->tx and tx->tx, rx->rx combinations to get your adapter to work.

Chris
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
I don't have anything to release just yet, but we've found some issues with the 0.3x code. The resolution on the IMU's gyro should be 8192.0 (floating) and it's coded in 0.3 as 8000.0 (floating), there are also some other timer initialization issues that need to be corrected.... Deadband calculations, etc
I am trying to figure out how you got the value of 8192.0? My attitude estimation seems to be quite far out before being corrected by the acc.

Could you post the code used in calculating dt?

Thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulPhill View Post
I am trying to figure out how you got the value of 8192.0? My attitude estimation seems to be quite far out before being corrected by the acc.

Could you post the code used in calculating dt?


Thanks
8192 is related to how the resolution of the 6050 is configured. In the software it should be configured to use 8192 steps instead of 8000, the code is configured for floatingpoint, hence the .0 to convert the number to float.

The dT calc is not just a simple drop in, but we are getting closer to releasing all of these changes... And I'm about to sacrifice a board for science to make sure they run correctly...

Also note, there were a number of issues with the timers being configured correctly that we hope to resolve as well. My hope is that this version will be incrementally more stable than the prior and more accurate and may even resolve some of the large motor issues - but no promises.

Alan
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Last edited by aadamson; Aug 12, 2013 at 03:36 PM.
Old Aug 12, 2013, 10:57 AM
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Well, it took me 3 days (on and off), but I've done it. I've read all the posts in this thread.

Congrats on a super project, people.

I've got myself a v1.2 board from eBay, it already has 2.2k resistors on the FETs.
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/141000183841
28.89 ($38.59) with $2.50 shipping from China. Comes with a 6050 board, cable, and a voltage regulator board.

I've a proper serial port (9-pin D-type), on my laptop, so I was able to use an RS232-to TTL module, which I powered with 3.3V. I had one handy lying around.

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-MAX3232-R...item3381cf1c12

Connecting Vcc, Gnd, tx-rx and rx-tx, setting COM1 settings to 115200,E,8,1 I was able to connect to the GUI fine, change settings, read, write, etc. Getting the firmware flasher working was a bit more tricky, but it ended up that I just needed to jumper Boot0, nothing else. Oh, and remembering to switch uarts on the EvvGC.

Next to get my hands on some motors (other than recycled hard drive motors), and build myself a gimbal. Oh, I'm aiming for DSLR hand held.

Great work, all.
Dave.
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aadamson View Post
8192 is because the resolution of the 6050 is in bits. And in the software it's configured to use 13bits 0-8191 or 8192 steps, the code is configured for floatingpoint, hence the .0 to convert the number to float.

The dT calc is not just a simple drop in, but we are getting closer to releasing all of these changes... And I'm about to sacrifice a board for science to make sure they run correctly...

Also note, there were a number of issues with the timers being configured correctly that we hope to resolve as well. My hope is that this version will be incrementally more stable than the prior and more accurate and may even resolve some of the large motor issues - but no promises.

Alan
Are you sure that it is 13 bits and not 16? One also needs to take into account that it is provided in degrees as apposed to radians?

I have rewritten much of the code and slowly ironing out most of the issues. Currently working on being able to control the camera with a second IMU to be used as a handheld platform. This is where having the correct orientation becomes quite relevant.
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Old Aug 12, 2013, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulPhill View Post
Are you sure that it is 13 bits and not 16? One also needs to take into account that it is provided in degrees as apposed to radians?

I have rewritten much of the code and slowly ironing out most of the issues. Currently working on being able to control the camera with a second IMU to be used as a handheld platform. This is where having the correct orientation becomes quite relevant.
Did that math wrong too... I give up... the value needs to be 8192 I do know that ...
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Last edited by aadamson; Aug 12, 2013 at 04:20 PM.
Old Aug 12, 2013, 03:52 PM
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acc007- One of the developers played testor and flashed his 1.2 board with the latest changes that we've made, these corrected the deadband issues, timing issues, and loop issues.

It ran without issue, but we found a couple of other things that we'd like to remedy as well. I hope to push a new version of code real soon.

As mentioned, this isn't a refactored code, but it is a much more technically correct version supporting the timers of the STM etc. I think Alfred also created the failsafe such that if you lost your external crystal for example, it would run on an internal clock ... hopefully no-one will need to test that...

Once we push this version, I think for the for short term it will be as a separate branch - I hate to push new code as the main branch until I know it's *good*...

Also for those that don't want to deal with Eclipse, there will be a Makefile build option

Alan
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Last edited by aadamson; Aug 12, 2013 at 03:58 PM.
Old Aug 12, 2013, 03:59 PM
Lpcavedagne
Joined Apr 2011
7 Posts
HATED THE BOARD!

Bought one, paid 58 bucks on the board + 39 of shipping and more 100$ of taxes from my country.

Expected to have the board working flawlessly by using the GUI.... BUT..... instead i got a simple board that to make it work, you have to add Resistors, remove stuff, make A LOT of things to make it live....

Results: I have spent so much money to buy carbon fiber gimbal, 3 expensive motors and that shi-tty board to get the thing working, but i can't get it to work.

I DON'T RECOMMEND ANYONE TO BUY IT! HOPE I'LL GET ANSWERED AND AT LEAST A REFUND FOR THE BOARD!!!!!!

Thanks, Luiz Paulo.
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