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Old Mar 31, 2013, 05:39 PM
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YEP ESC help

I have a YEP 60A (my first YEP) with a KD 36-10XL 900kv from Hobby King (link below) that is being used in a sailplane. I am using a 12x6 folding prop with a 3s 3000 pack. The same setup with an ICE 50 controller gets 492 watts at 42amps. With the YEP ESC I am only getting 345 watts at 29amps. The ICE and YEP are set for auto timing. Can someone explain how to calculate what the timing should be if I use manual timing?

Motor link:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_900Kv.html
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Lower timing should yield lower RPM, but also fewer amps. Higher timing = more RPM, more amps.

Before writing off the YEP, check RPM (or thrust). Then you'll be able to decide the ideal timing for you, based on the RPM you want, and the current you're willing to supply.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 04:15 AM
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Have you done throttle calibration with the new YEP ESC? It could be that the ESC dont give you full throttle even with the stick in full position. Check the manual how to do it if you dont know.
Outrunners does usually whant medium to high timing.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MagnusEl View Post
Have you done throttle calibration with the new YEP ESC? It could be that the ESC dont give you full throttle even with the stick in full position. Check the manual how to do it if you dont know.
Outrunners does usually whant medium to high timing.
I did the throttle calibration, no improvement.

If I go for manual timing, I have no idea what to select. There are options for 0, 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 02:00 PM
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This turned out to be an interesting result. I set the timing to 18, it was about the same numbers. Then I tried 24 and it was just a few watts more, finally tried 30 and it maxed out at 386 watts which is a far cry from the ~495 I am used to getting with this motor. I finally grabbed my Castle ICE 100 that was not being used and was rather surprised to see the same low ~380 watts.

I then realized the last time I tested my amps/watts was with my old AstroFlight meter, I now use a Turnigy. I found my Astro and the numbers were the same.

So I guess the motor is not functioning right or it's not the one I ordered. They don't print anything on these motors to confirm the model #.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 05:53 PM
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How do you know the motor's not up to par?
The power drawn is determined by what's bolted to it, i.e. the prop/fan/rotor.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 09:05 PM
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How do you know the motor's not up to par?
The power drawn is determined by what's bolted to it, i.e. the prop/fan/rotor.
I have the same motor and prop on my other sailplane as I mentioned in the first post. My other sailplane has a Castle ICE controller on it with the same KDA motor and prop. Once I tried the ICE controller on this new sailplane I know it's the motor because it's still not producing 495 watts.
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 03:58 AM
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Is it producing the same RPM as your other setup? Potentially they have different kv, or one has a winding or two in the wrong spot which can ruin efficiency, but not affect kv too much?

(i.e. your other motor may be bad if it's producing the same RPM but using more power)
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 05:58 PM
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I checked the RPM's and the new KDA is doing 840 and the old KDA is doing 900. So it's odd, RPM wise it's much closer than the AMPS and WATS show.
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 06:02 PM
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even with the power=rpm^3, that doesn't line up. Something's screwy with the motor, and I'd suggest it's the old one.
The new one makes less power, sure, but it sucks a lot less! Go with a slightly larger prop to get the power back to what you want, but with lots more thrust
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Old Apr 02, 2013, 06:10 PM
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The good news in all of this is the YEP ESC is not the problem. I selected YEP because of the 6 amp BEC. It's much cheaper than a Castle ICE.
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Old Apr 03, 2013, 07:56 PM
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Glad to see you didn't go back to slimers when you moved South.

Larry K Tri County
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 10:52 AM
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Just got an HK YEP 60 ESC.

Question about soldering the motor side bullet connectors. The three wires are all the same yellow colour. This would imply that it is not crucial how the three ESC wires are plugged into the three EFlite motor wires which are different colours - red, black, blue.

I have read many times that as long as the the motor is turning in the right direction that the ESC hookup is not crucial. Just reverse wires to get the proper rotation.

Is my assumption correct - ESC to motor connections not crucial as long as motor turning correctly?

Bill
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erie_flyer View Post
Just got an HK YEP 60 ESC.

Question about soldering the motor side bullet connectors. The three wires are all the same yellow colour. This would imply that it is not crucial how the three ESC wires are plugged into the three EFlite motor wires which are different colours - red, black, blue.

I have read many times that as long as the the motor is turning in the right direction that the ESC hookup is not crucial. Just reverse wires to get the proper rotation.

Is my assumption correct - ESC to motor connections not crucial as long as motor turning correctly?

Bill
exactly. You have a correct understanding of how brushless motors and esc's work. If the motor is spinning the wrong direction, switch ANY two of the three wires and it will turn the other way.
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 02:46 PM
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Soldered on the various connectors to the YEP. Didn`t heat shrink the red/blue/black on the motor side until the motor was turning CCW. Then heat shrunk the colours to match the motor colours for future reference.

Bought the Prog Card II with the YEP. Instruction manual is on the HK website. Instructions are like ``Push the buttons until you do it right. If it didn`t work push the buttons again``. Yikes!

Figured I was safe as long as I didn`t push the Enter button. Had to get to level two for the LiPo cell count by pushing the 2 left hand buttons simultaneously. If you are out by a nanosecond the indicator LED won`t flash for level 2. After multiple attempts finally got it flashing.

Now for the non-existent instructions to get to the cell count. Kept pushing the left hand buttons and finally figured out how to get one LED on the cell row and the other LED on the 4 column. Pressed Enter. Got some musical notes so guess it worked.

To verify hooked the YEP to a RX, plugged in a flight battery and heard 4 notes meaning 4 cells.

Now onto mounting the YEP in an airplane. It will go into the new GP F1 Rocket which I have ordered in a Toronto R/C shop. Should have it in a few weeks.

Bill
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