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Old Mar 06, 2013, 07:36 AM
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Aerographics Comper Swift conversion

I haven't built a balsa plane for a long time, but i couldn't resist to the Comper swift kit from Aerographics.

It has a 26" wing span.

The kit is made with 1/32 balsa (very fragile), 3/32 balsa and plywood (very hard!).

I bought the kit last year to Sam's Models in the UK. I also bought a pilot, a dummy engine, some glue and solite fims for covering.

I've started to cut and sand the fuselage parts.
It should be a long build, as i haven't much skills at making 'stick and tissue' planes.
The plane should be light, but needs some reinforcement here and there to stand bad landings.

I wish i could build a backyard flyer, so i must care about weight.

It will be ailerons, rudder, elevator and throttle.

I'll use an AR6400 brick + 2 micro linear sevos for the ailerons, if it is a 1S setup. For a 2S setup, i may use a AS3X or an AR6300 + 4 micro servos...

As you can see on the pics, i have bought 2 kinds of glue: Super Phatic and Duco cement.

Any advice for that?

Here are a few pictures of the real plane.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 08:16 AM
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For wood its better resin like the super, let me know how it goes!
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 10:58 AM
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Use the Super Phatic. It does not get brittle when cured.

Free Flight designs can usually have some of the fuselage structure lightened or removed as it won't have to support a wound rubber motor when converted to RC.

A 2s brushless setup would probably eliminate any possible power concerns. The model would have to be very light (for its size) for a 1s setup.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wolff View Post
Use the Super Phatic. It does not get brittle when cured.

Free Flight designs can usually have some of the fuselage structure lightened or removed as it won't have to support a wound rubber motor when converted to RC.

A 2s brushless setup would probably eliminate any possible power concerns. The model would have to be very light (for its size) for a 1s setup.
Thanks. I've started the fuselage with Super Phatic. It seems ok.
The plane is quite big, but the balsa is very light. I think that the final weigh (plane alone) could be around 35g including wheels and covering.

A 1S setup gear weighs:

Battery 5g
AR6400 4g
2 x 1.7g servos
PZ gear box + bravo SX motor+ 5030 prop: 8-8.5g (Thrust is 50g)
or AP05 + 5030+ 1.5g ESC= 8.5-9g (Thrust is 70g).
misc: 1g

Total = 22g or so.

AUW could be equal to 35+22 = 57g.

So, if i can reach an AUW under 60g, a 1S setup could be used. It is maybe unrealistic..
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 03:59 PM
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Mike's flying scale model

I'm a big fan of this website dedicated to FF scale models.
There is a build of a Veron Comper swift. I'll try to follow the tips for my project.
http://www.ffscale.co.uk/comp3.htm
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 03:51 AM
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The beginning

I have made the 2 sides of the fuselage.
To get a symetrical result, i have made the first fuselage half , covered it with transparent paper, and then made the second fuselage half over it.

Weight is 4.7g for both halves.
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chulian1819 View Post
For wood its better resin like the super, let me know how it goes!
Hi,
Thanks for the input.
I've found aliphatic resin glue:
http://www.shop4glue.com/aliphatic-r...esive-20-c.asp

Is it what you're refering to?
What is the difference with the glue i'm using?
Thanks.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 03:13 AM
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A little more progress. I've had problems with the wood which is very soft (1/32). I broke 2 pieces. I don't understand this choice. The 3/32 balsa would have been a better idea...

I'm on holidays, so i should be able to finish the fuselage by the end of the week.
Stay tuned.
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 11:15 AM
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Hi Folks!

I've progreesed on the fuselage. Building with balsa is addictive!
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 10:10 AM
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Well, making the nose was longer than i expected. I have sanded a big block of soft balsa for the lower part. Here is the result.
I will finish the fuselage, except the upper rounded part, by mid week, i think.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Do you have a plan for mounting the motor (or gearbox)? The nose is looking very "enclosed". Is it removable? It may be worth considering. No matter how you do it, do the best you can to make the power system easily serviceable. Changing the prop or motor should not be an ordeal.
EDIT: The whole bottom block of the nose looks like it would make an excellent hatch if carefully cut free and retained with magnets. Install and service the power system (and probably the battery) from the bottom.

I'd also have a go at removing the part numbers from the exterior surfaces. They will show right through any light colored tissue. Perhaps a Q-Tip (cotton swab on a stick) and bleach? Try it before sanding because it (or any liquid AFAIK) will raise the grain of the wood.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wolff View Post
Do you have a plan for mounting the motor (or gearbox)? The nose is looking very "enclosed". Is it removable? It may be worth considering.

The nose is not removable, because the motor is outside the fuselage. It will be hidden in the dummy engine.
You can see the motor mounting on the picture of the plan.


The whole bottom block of the nose looks like it would make an excellent hatch if carefully cut free and retained with magnets. Install and service the power system (and probably the battery) from the bottom.

Good idea. I don't know where the battery will be located. I might be surprised, because the bottom block is quite heavy, and the motor is much forward than usually. So maybe i 'll have to install the hatch backward.

I'd also have a go at removing the part numbers from the exterior surfaces. They will show right through any light colored tissue. Perhaps a Q-Tip (cotton swab on a stick) and bleach? Try it before sanding because it (or any liquid AFAIK) will raise the grain of the wood.

I'll do that.
Thanks Tim for your interest and your advices. They are welcome.
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 06:39 AM
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Here is the vertical vertical tail.
I'll make the horizontal one tomorrow.
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Old Mar 14, 2013, 06:34 AM
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Dummy engine

Here is the horizontal stab. It weighs 1,9g. I really don't like the super phatic glue. I've used some cyano.

I would ask if someone could tell me how to work with the dummy engine (from Sam's models). See picture on post #1.

Do i have to cut the plastic between the cylinders?

As it is hollow, i've thought about filling it with expansive foam to get a full shape. What do you think?

If someone has used this dummy engine, please tell me how you have done.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 15, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Wing

I've started the wing. The ribs are so thin, like cigarette paper! They break easily.

Also, here are a lot of nice Comper Swift pictures:
http://www.google.com/search?q=compe...64%3B824%3B549
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