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Old Feb 23, 2013, 10:21 PM
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I have flown Fox 35s in PA competition a lot in years gone by. 4 oz tanks were all I used. 70 ft lines is going to be more than you want. However, it is easier to cut long lines down than to make up new lines. Years ago, I went to 11 x 5 props on Fox stunt 35s and never looked back. The Taipan 11 x 5 is a favorite.
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Old Feb 23, 2013, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Thomerson View Post
I have flown Fox 35s in PA competition a lot in years gone by. 4 oz tanks were all I used. 70 ft lines is going to be more than you want. However, it is easier to cut long lines down than to make up new lines. Years ago, I went to 11 x 5 props on Fox stunt 35s and never looked back. The Taipan 11 x 5 is a favorite.


How would a nice 10X 6 prop work on your plane? How different from your prefered 11 x 5?
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 12:33 PM
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Many years ago, I thought the problem with a 10 x 6 Rev-Up wide was slow acceleration out of the corners. I tried a Zinger 11 x 5 wide. I was flying off a stooge. When I pulled the stooge line, I found myself flying about ten feet behind the airplane, it was accelerating so much faster than it had been with the 10 x 6. A lot of people recommend the APC 10.5 x 4.5, but I have not tried one.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 10:29 PM
KE your cub.
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in the gutter, again....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogusbob1 View Post
You are going to love the Nobler!! I've had 2 Gieskie Noblers, One with a Max 35 which I passed on to a friend when I stopped flying IC powered planes and the E-powered UHP one that my son is currently flying. With battery on board this plane comes in at under 41oz. This plane has about 20 flights on it all but one, the full AMA pattern.
Gorgeous, is that a standard size Gieskie?
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 08:32 AM
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I use a 10.5 x 4.5 on an LA 40 in my now retired ARF Nobler. Worked out really good. Used a clunk tank too by the way with no issues but did rig it for Uniflo.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:11 AM
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Clunk or steel?

Clunk works fine but you still have to center the tank on the needle. The way I set up my tank is that I used two clunks soldered together or a single clunk with a tube soldered to it. Use one line to the clunk for fuel and the other to the second clunk or tube as a uniflow. Make sure the uniflow is at least 3/8 short of the fuel feed. You do not want bubbles to go in the fuel feed line. You will have to play with it till it shifts correctly from one side to the other.
The question is how much space do you have in relation to the center of the needle valve? Clunk tanks are fat while the regular metal CL tanks are thin. The question is can you fit a clunk tank and still have it centered on the needle or not? If yes you can go either way but if not you have no choice but to go Steel tank.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:12 AM
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70 feet

70 feet no way in the world a good start for a 35 is 63 and that is conservative.
Get an adjustable handle.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:19 AM
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Lead outs

Start in the position indicated on the plans. Then if the loops or squares are getting looser every consecutive maneuver (I am assuming proper motor run an line tension in horizontal flight) then push them forward about 1/8 at a time. There will be a certain sweet spot where no matter what you do the model is positive under control. If you get it right you can do 5 square eights no break in between and go straight in hour glass with no problem.
I hope I make sense and this is clear.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 05:47 AM
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I have installed a 4 oz clunk tank and is pretty much in line with the needle valve.am planning to change it to a proper cl tank when available.
70 foot lines is what I what i purchased and is easily adjustable down to at least 60 foot. I have the old style aeroflyte handle which you just wind up to the desired length. after that will transfer it to my trusty brodak handle.

Thanks for the tips on the lead outs. I will ensure proper position before flight.

I managed to start break in procedure and have found them (fox 35) to vibrate more than what I am used to (OS 25FP) , louder than usual , even with the supplied muffler and very smoky when running high castor content ! gotta love them !

Nobler is almost ready to fly.

Alf
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 09:02 AM
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Pretty much does not make the cut in CL as the position of the tank is crucial for a good motor run.
A good safe start position for the tank is center of tank higher than center line of needle valve. I would say anywhere between 1/16 to1/8in higher is a good start and from there you can lower the tank till the motor runs even both ways (I am assuming that the motor would run a little faster inverted due to the slightly high position of the tank). That way when you go inverted it will be a little faster which is safe since you do not want the motor to lower the RPM inverted. If that happens and the RPM drops dramatically you are better off landing inverted.
If your Clunk tank has center line below the center line of the needle I say be cautious when you go inverted.
You don’t have to go with the Proper CL tank there is no such thing as a proper CL tank. Clunk and metal tanks both work well if you set them well that is all. The clunk tanks tend to be fat and their center lines fall very often below the CL of the needle that is why more often you will see the “proper” tanks in the CL planes.
Yes FOX is vibrating like mad and you need a very solid nose construction. If that is vibrating too much go to a Brodack 40. It is lighter it is an even swap take bolts out put new motor put bots back in and you are done. Also if it is nose heavy I recommend the swap. Other choices out there are La40. Staler 40 the Double Star 40.
By the way I love the colors you picked and the layout it is very beautiful.
Put some cowl pictures and make sure you have good cooling that means for every square inch of intake area you have 2 inches of exhaust cooling area.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alf.g View Post
I have installed a 4 oz clunk tank and is pretty much in line with the needle valve.am planning to change it to a proper cl tank when available.
70 foot lines is what I what i purchased and is easily adjustable down to at least 60 foot. I have the old style aeroflyte handle which you just wind up to the desired length. after that will transfer it to my trusty brodak handle.

Thanks for the tips on the lead outs. I will ensure proper position before flight.

I managed to start break in procedure and have found them (fox 35) to vibrate more than what I am used to (OS 25FP) , louder than usual , even with the supplied muffler and very smoky when running high castor content ! gotta love them !

Nobler is almost ready to fly.

Alf
Pretty much can't add more than the previous post but did want to say VERY pretty airplane well done!!
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Curare View Post
Gorgeous, is that a standard size Gieskie?
Yes it is.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Beautiful airplanes!
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Old Mar 23, 2013, 09:48 AM
NOT SCREWED UP
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jun 2011
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have finally maidened the Nobler today. All went well and only managed to do some loops and wingovers for the first fly. Used 65 foot lines and had plenty of tension on the line. I am using Brodak .018 flying lines and am thinking of using .015 as there was some arc in the lines.
Fox 35 ran like a dream throughout the whole flight and had plenty of power to haul it around even though mine came in a tad over 45oz. They sound great!! Glad i spent time to run it in.
may even reduce some tip weight as well.
Landing was super smooth and only had a little fuel left in the tank. 4oz tank was used.
Thanks to all who offered advise and suggestions.
Alfred
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Old Mar 23, 2013, 10:09 AM
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Adelaide, South Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alf.g View Post
I am using Brodak .018 flying lines and am thinking of using .015...
I use .015" on all my big 60 powered stunters and have never had a problem so they'll be more than adequate for your Nobler. Which BTW is the prettiest I've seen .
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