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Old Feb 21, 2013, 12:43 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Canby
Joined Aug 2011
2,437 Posts
I use one of these on one plane, selectable output voltage.
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEFV2.1.html

I also have one of these for the 6.6v LiFe battery, regulated to 6v.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/e...-switches.html

Regulated for single ignition at bottom of the page, selectable output voltage, but more money.
https://www.smart-fly.com/Products/I...n/ignition.htm
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Tucson
Joined Nov 2009
1,062 Posts
The DLE 20cc has a very short throttle throw, and I had a lot of trouble getting the servo throw right. Guys at the club said to remove the idle screw, and set this with the servo range. That worked. But the throttle throw was so small that I had trouble adjusting the servo, and the servo (40g) was so powerful that it bent the pushrod all out of shape. I don't like the DLE throttle setup.

Also, the choke has such a hard movement, that I couldn't get any 40g servo to work it. I ended up putting a manual pushrod inside the body....

Although I have seen throttle servos installed right behind the firewall, people told me that this close to the ignition system would cause electric interference, and this would badly affect the throttle control. So I moved my throttle servo way back behind the gas tank.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Tucson
Joined Nov 2009
1,062 Posts
By the way, the RCGF throttle setup works very smoothly, and for that reason alone, I will probably like the RCGF 20cc gas engine better than the DLE. Even though it requires a lot longer break in period, because it is machined from harder stock.

I think that the RCGF choke will still have to be a manual pushrod.
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Old Feb 24, 2013, 08:00 PM
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ace4rc's Avatar
tampa,florida
Joined Nov 2007
2,085 Posts
I would like to add my opinions. On the throttle and choke arms being too short here is a good replacement, http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMCARBARMSL.html, I make my own. As for the choke being to hard for a servo, one could remove the position ball. And as for anything being to close to the engine, bah humbug, all of my gear is usually withing six inches of the engine. That would include the battery, reciever, throttle and choke servo, ign kill, smoke pump, etc.etc.etc.The biggest RF cause is metal to metal, a steel clevis on the steel throttle arm for example, elsewise I have never seen or had any interference.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:25 PM
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Maine
Joined Jul 2009
310 Posts
I fly a GP giant big stick with a 400cc on it, and a GP revolver 70 with a DLE 20 on it. I am going to be using one 2300 A123 pack for my rx and my ign. one battery, no hassle. I had been using nimh, but that is old technology.

Here is a link to my throttle setup and choke setup on my revolver I too had probs with it, so here is what I came up with. seems to work nicley.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1836362&page=2
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