|Feb 16, 2013, 12:51 PM|
Building on the Road
I'm about to head out for an extended job assignment and I want to take a stab at building a model on the road. I'm thinking it will be a peanut or possibly something slightly bigger like a Peck Baby Ace or Dumas Tiger Moth.
One question I have is, does anyone know of an iron on covering that is suitable for a peanut. I've been reading about LiteSpan but I don't know if that would be too heavy duty for such a delicate structure. In the past I have actually ironed on tissue with thinned Balsarite. But given that I'll be living in hotel rooms I need to keep the logistics as simple as possible. Something that does not need sealing with dope would be best.
Also, I'm compiling a list of "must have" items to take with me. What I have so far is listed below and fits neatly into a compact travel box. But I just know I'm going to forget something. If anyone sees anything I've missed I would sure appreciate their input.
- ceiling tile workboard
- wax paper
- assorted blocks and squares for alignment
- assorted sandpaper, sanding sticks, etc
- T-Bar sanders (short and long)
- rubber cement (for attaching sandpaper to T-bars)
- metal straightedge
- XActo with extra blades
- razor saw
- CA glue
- Titebond Glue
- glue stick
- scrap wood (balsa, ply, etc)
- K&S tubing cutter
- aluminum tubing assorted
- Dremel tool and assorted bits
- trim iron tool
- needle nose pliers
- small bullet level
- wire cutters
- extra loop rubber
- rubber lube
- zip lock bags (for storing lubed rubber)
- clay weight (hopefully not needed )
This is a good bit of stuff but, with the exception of some breaks, I will be gone most of the year. I MUST scratch my modeling itch.
Thanks for reading and again, any thoughts or suggestions are most appreciated.
|Feb 16, 2013, 01:12 PM|
To me, your list looks complete enough.....
To keep things organized though, you'll now need an ad hoc purchased (or made) case for all stuff, also with some space for an ongoing build.....
|Feb 16, 2013, 01:39 PM|
Thanks for your input. That's a good point. Most of my building will take place in hotel rooms so organization will be critical. The final choice of case or box will need to accommodate whatever model I choose. Right now I'm leaning towards a peanut just to keep everything as compact as possible.
|Feb 16, 2013, 03:11 PM|
consider adding -
-some extra higher wattager light bulbs as the ones in the room are usually pretty wimpy. I actually take a flexible goosneck 10$ cheapo desk light.
- I need those magnifying head-visors to see the details - harbor freight.
- Any kind of laser cut kit will make ones building life *so* easy in this situation- my recent builds have Multiplex kits due to ease of hotel room building.
- One of those tiny usb powered fans to blow away the CA stink (if using CA)from your face - Usually hotel windows don't open much to keep people from jumping out.
- for smaller builds, i'd try to cover with a gluestick use to adhere Coverite CoverLite - it is almost like tissue except heat shrinkable and no-adhsive backing(lighter). That said if your working in a place that allows you to 'stink' it up with BalsaRite during the day, do that and take the dry parts back to finish covering in the hotel room.
- fine size round solder = for gross adjustments to use to balance CG.
- Balsa wood stripper - lets you cut any size wood strip from any size straight-edged balsa donor sheet- not every town has a hobby shop for replacement wood.
- USPS has some really nice and sturdy flat rate shipping boxes and trianglular tubes, these are good for smaller FF models to live in while moving about.
- Finally reading material => FreeFlightQuarterly - scroll down to mid-page for CD versions and printed booklets, they have some scale issues and scattered scale (full sized peanut plans). fyi -CD's sent from Kentucky.
best wishes, js
ps- i forgot to mention - i could never stay in another hotel room and be 100% ok with that
|Feb 16, 2013, 06:27 PM|
United States, MA, Waltham
Joined Dec 2001
Glue stick is fine for tissue, and models fly just fine with undoped tissue as long as they never get wet. Plus some people are using alternatives like Future floor wax. I haven't done that so I don't know which materials are best.
|Feb 16, 2013, 06:52 PM|
I'd want to check on the weight of the CoverLite and other alternatives before I were to commit to them.
Another option for P-Nutz might be the light films used these days for indoor duration models in place of condenser paper and microfilm. Then for colouring mist on airbrushed Floquil model railroad paint to achieve the colour scheme. Of course the painting might need to wait until you return home. But in the meantime you could build and even test fly the model to that point.
Otherwise I'd say stick with tissue and dope. You could do all the work up to the point of doping the covering in the hotel room and save the doping for a nice day sitting in a local park or at some other venue where the smell won't bother anyone.
I like the tissue and dope option because it allows you to work with the colour scheme and adhere other tissue markings to the doped tissue. Same with the airbrush painted mylar except you'd need masking overlays to produce the markings.
|Feb 17, 2013, 01:16 PM|
Joined Oct 2000
I'm another one that votes for tissue- but I'd kick around some spray Krylon- figuring that when the airplane is done- take it outside and give it a quick mist. You might also want to pack some music wire. If space is an issue- I can live without a dremel when building FF- just bring a pack of files of various shapes instead. Do bring some stripwood or a stripper.
I've done some building in hotel rooms- I generally take kits that don't have laser cut parts so that a chunk of time is spent cutting parts out. I hate X-acto's by the way- try Griffin Mfg in Webster NY for some good blades and if bought in bulk, cheaper than Brand X. Might also want some isopropyl alcohol for tissue shrinking and an atomizer. I like Ambroid too- I use very little CA when building. And you forgot the RC-56- I haven't found anything better for attaching windows/canopies or plastic to wood. Also- Monokote backing or even the clear plastic used to seal boxes works better than the crappy wax paper these days. And wax paper and Ambroid don't mix....
I'd also kick around a small simple stooge, winder, and some Armor All for lube-assuming you can score a plastic baggie.
Some extra props would be good- as would thrust buttons and teflon washers.
|Feb 17, 2013, 04:01 PM|
St Clair Shores, Michigan
Joined Jan 2008
I don't think I saw these on your list, and if others have suggested them I missed it (if so, pardon me)
glass beads for bearings
extra pair of needlenose pliers
rat tail files
I have switched from Ambroid (which I really like but cannot buy any more) to Titebond,and it is fine
|Feb 17, 2013, 10:16 PM|
Excellent suggestions - all of them! And the visor, how could I forget that??
|Feb 17, 2013, 10:18 PM|
Future floor wax. Interesting. I've never heard about using that in place of dope. I will do some research. Should would be nice to avoid those dope fumes.
|Feb 17, 2013, 10:21 PM|
Good point. Tissue and dope actually IS an option, as I'll be spending a lot of time outside during the days. Build by night, dope by day. Really my main concern with using dope is the hassle of thinning, cleaning, etc. Not to mention that I'd have to have a friend ship it to me. I don't think I'd want to go through baggage check with stuff like that.
|Feb 17, 2013, 10:23 PM|
Doh! Completely forgot the atomizer and RC56. Must have items for sure. As for Krylon, that one is new to me as well. I'll research it along with the future floor wax.
So these blades, are they notably sharper than X-Actos? I'll look into them.
|Feb 18, 2013, 12:53 AM|
Yeah, if you're flying then I'd suggest you really don't want to be packing a lot of liquids.
It's not the end of the world if you build and cover to the point of doping and then finish things off when you return home. Just be sure that you've got a hard case box that fits in your check in luggage to hold the airframe bits when built and covered.
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