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Old Feb 14, 2013, 06:42 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
Build Log
ah6/md500-c align 600 esp build

ok i have been lucky enough to get my hands on a 600 esp with great electronics . and also struck a deal with (wos) on a md500 fuselage brand new from rcaerodyne . the one with the opening doors . i have been collecting parts here and there for this build ever since keyrriger started his build . verry inspiring . so now that i have the basics for the build i am having trouble with building scale cockpit and . didnt realy want to cut the frame but looks as though i will have to. so any advise on the build is welcome . and if any one knows if the 600 can handle the weight of 2 6s 5000mah packs and fuse and scale cock pit i would like to know . heres some picks and vid to show where i am and whats done so far and what i have for the build . thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 06:43 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
heres a vid of where im at with the build and the prob i am facing
600 ah6 md500 c build 019 (2 min 50 sec)
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 09:40 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
Mississauga, Ont., Can.
Joined Sep 2009
2,327 Posts
Do you intend to build this with M134's on it? I have two kits that may never be used and four Hellfire missiles plus launchers that are in the same boat. Half price for the bunch, if you don't have them yet. This should turn out nice once you get your plan of attack sorted out. It's really not that hard to do but it does take time. Take care.

Don
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 06:32 PM
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United States, WA, Poulsbo
Joined Nov 2012
19 Posts
I would put the wood panels on the nose section, so the cockpit comes out when you remove it. You'll probably have to put the batteries on the sides. I'm doing a 500 size and will put two 2200 or 1800 6s batteries in parallel, one one each side of the frame. Don't think I'll have enough room for cockpit. We'll see. Just starting mine.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:36 AM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
well before i had started my build . i was watching the build from keyrigger . and thought to my self this looks easy and awesome , but its actually verry hard and time consuming . and very costly . and requires and great amount of skill . witch i have none lol .but i will keep the effort up and see what comes of it . i think a 500 would be a good plat form to start .
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:32 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
dash picks

well today i wqas working on cockpit and i just cant work with wood . so next on the list of materials was styrene . witch i can some what work with ok . i started building the insterment dash . ok i cheated i took an already made dash from a 1/6 scale toy and widened it up abit . since it was tall enough it made the job a little easy. just a couple strips of plastic and some putty. and this is what i got still needs sanding and insterments but it will come this eve

josh
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Last edited by trucker41; Feb 17, 2013 at 06:08 PM. Reason: add pics
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brookfield
Joined May 2010
32 Posts
Have a look at this video I put together of my 700 size AH-6M I built early last year...... It should give you an idea about the construction. Keyrigger and others have a lot of pictures of its construction that they might be able to give you to help and give you ideas. My photobucket account is no longer active.

1/6 AH/MH-6M Littlebird 160th SOAR Nightstalkers.....a tribute (2 min 45 sec)
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:45 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brookfield
Joined May 2010
32 Posts
Flight video

1/6 Scale AH/MH-6M Littlebird 160th SOAR Nightstalkers (8 min 13 sec)
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:20 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
Mississauga, Ont., Can.
Joined Sep 2009
2,327 Posts
One of the big problems with the cockpit of the 500 is that it is too deep. The cheek (best way I can describe it), right in front of the door, is way too deep and the entire cockpit is pushed forward of where it should be. The front edge of the floor should go from one side to the other, where it meets the window opening. The instrument panel will use that line to be the point where the back wall of the panel frame intersects the floor. The front wall of the panel will be in front of that line and with the scale ours are, it works out to be about half an inch. I am rough calling the numbers here but going by mine and what I can see (I have it assembled and can't get at it right now to properly measure it). If you look at your picture 12 of 16, the front edge of the panel is going straight down to the floor front edge and it should be further back towards the seats. Effectively, the front edge of the panel lines up (but not parallel) to the door at the bottom and then falls away as it gets taller. It may take a couple of tries to get it right (to your eyes as best you can) and then you tell yourself, "that's what I want" I like what you have done so far and it should be easy to get it on the money. I had to try twice to get mine acceptable and the biggest issue is don't worry about what is in front for distances as they are not right and you can't do much to change it. I just rolled with it and said ok, what ever I get will work and look about right. Hope this helps you along.

Don
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Australia, QLD, Brookfield
Joined May 2010
32 Posts
It would be best to get a 700 size fuselage. This with cutting the front off the 600 mechanics will give you ample room for a cockpit. The other option would be to use a 500 size mechanics in a 600 size (1/8 scsle) fuselage which you have. I would personally go for 700 size as the pilots are not as cramped. 700 size is roughly 1/7 scale, your pilots are 1/6 so it make sense to go to a 700 size fuselage. You can also take advantage if using a OF head on 600 mechanics which will give you better scale flight than a fully rigid head.

There are three other people doing this concept with 600 size fuselages......why not go 700......the logistics of the build will be easier because a 700 size fuselage is closer to the 1/6 scale pilots than a 600 size fuselage would be.

Good luck
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 09:37 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
Mississauga, Ont., Can.
Joined Sep 2009
2,327 Posts
hank79:

I think that whom ever said the 700 size md500 is 1/7th scale, couldn't get their measurements and ratios right and this propogates the myth that the 600 is 1/8th. The 600 size body from Century measures exactly out to 1/6th scale and all measurements from the manuals to the model bare this out. I most likely spent the better part of 6 hours going over and over the measurements I got and then did the same thing when the body came in, just to be sure. The 700 is 1/5.6 scale and the measurements from the Century web site and the manual bare this out, too. My initial cockpit was done wrong and had the figures crowded against the canopy. That is why I tore the cockpit out and rebuilt it with the measurements as close as the rest of the rear woodwork would let me get it to scale height. The back wall of the cockpit should actually be 5/32" further back but that is not possible with the design of the fuselage/cockpit separation line. The 700 is much better in that respect. Take into account that some don't have the resourses to just drop what they are doing, junk the present build (flog it, same difference), and go to another build just on the say-so of others. The 600 size does have it's woes but so does the 700 and the cost difference in the OF head compared to the Century is huge. I chose to go the Century route as parts need to come from the internet, either way I went so I spent the difference on a very useful upgrade to my gyro, which doesn't care what type of head is attached to it from my experience, anyway. Take care.

Don
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:50 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank79 View Post
It would be best to get a 700 size fuselage. This with cutting the front off the 600 mechanics will give you ample room for a cockpit. The other option would be to use a 500 size mechanics in a 600 size (1/8 scsle) fuselage which you have. I would personally go for 700 size as the pilots are not as cramped. 700 size is roughly 1/7 scale, your pilots are 1/6 so it make sense to go to a 700 size fuselage. You can also take advantage if using a OF head on 600 mechanics which will give you better scale flight than a fully rigid head.

There are three other people doing this concept with 600 size fuselages......why not go 700......the logistics of the build will be easier because a 700 size fuselage is closer to the 1/6 scale pilots than a 600 size fuselage would be.

Good luck
from what i could see in fotos of the 1to1 md 500 , the pilots are cramped in there and these werent built for comfort from what i gather . i heard them referd to as the feraris of the the heli world . built for performance . i cant aford to drop this heli and start another build . and the chalenge is interesting . thanks to the help i am receiving from you guys . but unfortunatly i have to nickle and dime this operation and cant do the real expensive fbl controlers and heads . i am however going to use the century 4 blade head on mine and most likely use a 3gx . unless i win lotto here soon lol . thanks for the help and advise

regards josh
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:02 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger View Post
One of the big problems with the cockpit of the 500 is that it is too deep. The cheek (best way I can describe it), right in front of the door, is way too deep and the entire cockpit is pushed forward of where it should be. The front edge of the floor should go from one side to the other, where it meets the window opening. The instrument panel will use that line to be the point where the back wall of the panel frame intersects the floor. The front wall of the panel will be in front of that line and with the scale ours are, it works out to be about half an inch. I am rough calling the numbers here but going by mine and what I can see (I have it assembled and can't get at it right now to properly measure it). If you look at your picture 12 of 16, the front edge of the panel is going straight down to the floor front edge and it should be further back towards the seats. Effectively, the front edge of the panel lines up (but not parallel) to the door at the bottom and then falls away as it gets taller. It may take a couple of tries to get it right (to your eyes as best you can) and then you tell yourself, "that's what I want" I like what you have done so far and it should be easy to get it on the money. I had to try twice to get mine acceptable and the biggest issue is don't worry about what is in front for distances as they are not right and you can't do much to change it. I just rolled with it and said ok, what ever I get will work and look about right. Hope this helps you along.

Don
yea i was kinda stumped for a min on this . glad nothing was done perm. the insterment panel lines up nice against the fuse when i lift it to where it is suposed to be . i will be working on the floor for a better part of the day tomorrow . and plan on having the corect batt hatch compartment just forward of the left seat . thanks for all the help don . keep it coming i need all i can get
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:13 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
Mississauga, Ont., Can.
Joined Sep 2009
2,327 Posts
I didn't put a plate in for that hatch but I may still do it. Why not, as I have to take the boys out again to finish off the sight when it gets here. I may also build longer foot plates as mine look just a bit short but even those vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model. Those are simple anyway. Make your floor straight across from window frame to window frame. It is far easier to add any extensions or mounts for the instrument panel, than to try and incorperate it in the floor. If you get something wrong, a simple yank and it is out and a new part can be put in. Take care.

Don
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:16 PM
cant get right !!!
trucker41's Avatar
United States, CA, Victorville
Joined Sep 2012
321 Posts
oh i get it now the inst panel is suposed to come to at least the begining of the door line or the cheek as you called it . and these fuses are just to deep from the wall forward . i get it now lol duh after staring at the 1 to 1 pic i saw that the panel came out realy far shoot ! now how am i gona fix that . i might just pull it back alittle and get it as close as pos with out leaving a giant gap .
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Last edited by trucker41; Feb 18, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
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