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Old Mar 02, 2013, 07:07 PM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Joined Nov 1999
13,593 Posts
The brown Gorilla glue.

Eric B.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 09:26 PM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
592 Posts
You can see the cowl for my cap 232 in the background of this pic. It is the plug I am making to pull a mold off of. The state it is in now is fiberglass cloth with gorilla glue on it. I thin it with a little heat in the microwave and then you spread it as thin as you can. I used an old credit card. Just let it set don't put any water on it and the moisture in the air will activate it and keep it from foaming to much.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 05:07 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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CB.... Why not just use resin? I work with urethanes all the time and would think that doing the plug that way would require a hell of a lot more finishing. Anyhow, interesting approach.

Today I did my house jobs to free up my build time. I redesigned the station patterns to improve the build now that I'm trying the 1/4" foam sheet method. I have added alignment tabs that when placed on flat surface will set up the side profile flow exact to scale outlines. I'm going to build this fuse as a probable flying model like John Morgans F-16 but with the EDF power plants. I have also decided to use the scale wing profile but make it just a bit thicker. So by the end of the week I hope to have a completed fuse.

I'll sheet up the rear to intake section first then intakes to the nose. This allows me to get the stepped up shape a little easier then just join the sections from a jig.

I have never done this foam sheet type building so will obviously make a lot of mistakes. From what I have seen its a cool and fast way of building. So I'll start by laying it all out on a flat surface. Then I'll skin up the rear section from the bottom up. Once it is all rigid I can flip it and chop off the tabs and close the lower section.

I think that should work? Today I ordered my eTracts for the test model. I decided to go fairly inexpensive with the PZ extra large units. The PZ small units come on all those FMS warbirds that weigh in around 5-7 lbs. Then they have the much larger models with a mid size unit. These I just put in my Composite build Trojan and so far are rock solid at flying weight of 7 3/4 lbs. Then I found a set EXTRA LARGE. So I ordered two sets of those for the Typhoon prototypes. At $45 per set of three and with metal trunnions for 5mm pins they should be good up to around 12 - 15 lbs. I got all of this from PW-RC.com. Phillip is super efficient and service is first class out of China. For my final bird I'll probably try Lado or similar.

Stand bye............
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 06:28 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
v8truckin's Avatar
United States, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,666 Posts
Bout time! Glad to see you've started. Very interested in how you work out the airbrake trailing arm to function like the scale version using a piston or hydraulic trailing arm hopefully something more scale then the way I did mine on the Su. Ill be watching and good luck with the build.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 06:59 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
Bout time! Glad to see you've started. Very interested in how you work out the airbrake trailing arm to function like the scale version using a piston or hydraulic trailing arm or the way I did mine on the Su. Ill be watching and good luck with the build.
Yes it got delayed somewhat with the T-28 build and crappy weather causing layup delays etc.

More than likely be using a proportional Ram screw drive actuator so it can be mixed with other channels. But that could change when getting to the end and weighing. Sometimes somethings got to go. One thing I'm definitely doing is a super detailed and scaled cockpit with back lit MFD's etc. I'm currently seeing about having two RAF Typhoon pilots custom made for me out of the UK. I could not find any old pics of myself in flight suit to have them copy. So just generic in 1:85 scale.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:26 AM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
24,370 Posts
Don't get discouraged. I look back at my first experience with fanfold and was very skeptical at first. Didn't like the stuff and thought it just wasn't for me. Man, was I wrong. The more I worked with it, the more I came to love it. The more you work with it the more you learn, complex curves are so easy once you have some experience with it. I'm sure MPF will work just as easy or easier. I need to order some to try but I have about 5 bundles of fanfold in storage!
Looking forward to learning something on your build here.

J

PS I used electric retracts from PW-RC too on my 1/8th scale A-1H. They have worked great except for one bad bump from a wind gust during a touch & go. Replaced that one with a spare and then ordered three more sets for spares and one set for my 1/9th Hellcat. Hey, at $23 a set for rotating retracts, how can you go wrong?
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:39 AM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
592 Posts
I did the glass cloth because my plug is just made of white foam. Once I get the finish on the cloth close I will go over it with a skim coat of bondo then a good coat of paint before then pulling a mold off of it. It was a method I learned from a fella over on flying giants. I tried putting bondo on the foam and learned real quick that the foam does a disappearing act. Lol. This way is a lot of work but I have made a couple of mistakes along the way in this process. Next time it will go much quicker.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:59 AM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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CB..... I get you now. I usually just get the foam plug as smooth as possible then glass it and then a prime coat. Light sand and then use fillers, putty as required. Then repeat until ready to polish up with wet/dry. Either method is lots of work........
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 08:45 AM
Flying Low
cbarnes0061's Avatar
United States, VA, Petersburg
Joined Mar 2012
592 Posts
Yes it is a lot of work especially for me. This cowl is for a 30% cap 232. This is my first build over .40 glow size model and the cowl is my first ever experience playing with fiberglass. Did I mention it is my first scratch build. Lol there are a lot of first for me with this plane but it has been fun and I have learned a lot.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 09:27 AM
Do it Right, the first time!
CoolerByTheLake's Avatar
United States, MN, Hermantown
Joined Dec 2008
5,428 Posts
I did my first plug last year, and found a number of different "fillers" wern't compatable with foam, but some will react to epoxy also. I used product called MH Ready Patch by Zinsser on the foam , it worked fine. But when I glassed the fuse, the epoxy softened it up, a whole bunch!! Had to cut those parts out. Skim coated wih epoxy and bondo'd them up. Best and easiest way for a plug, is to glass it using epoxy from the start. I am going to try out this product on my foam "Shell " I'm doing, I also plan on glassing/epoxy the entire fuse.
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 05:39 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Today I managed to print out and cut the new stations. I added tabs that align the correct centerline of the fuse. This saves me having to print out full size top and bottom views that most people build to. I'm cheap.... I called a few printers and they all wanted $200 plus to plot the full size plans out. I wanted 42" x 16 ft continuous. So I just got hold of legal paper did the station prints and taped together. With the tabs and 1/8 th piano wire to hold it all together I wont need the plans except for reference.

My approach will be to cut a 7 mm a strip of foam that will be glued to the top center line from one end to the other. Then the same on the sides. This should make everything reasonably rigid to allow for larger panels to be attached between stations. Once I have the sides and top foamed I will then work the wing root template and knock out some wings. The nose will probably be solid carved block along with the tail pipes. All depends on how the foam sheets work out. If it works out good I'll glass it and fly it. Then start another for the master plug. I'm just not sure of what wing profile to use so going scale for the test model.

Tomorrow I have to layup a T28 Fuselage and tail sections. So will be back at it later in the week as my foam is on its way.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 01:20 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Unit_6s_.html

X2
????
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 02:38 AM
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Lincolnshire, UK
Joined Oct 2009
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I like. Watching closely!
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 10:40 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
v8truckin's Avatar
United States, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,666 Posts
Ace,

Here's a actuating linear servo that would serve your purpose as a ram arm for your airbrake.

Firgelli L12 Mini Linear Actuator Demonstration (0 min 57 sec)


I know they have different size so you'd have to find the right one for the scale of the euro. Someone on another thread used it for a sliding canopy.
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 04:14 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Thanks V8.. I have been looking at those for some time. Also found one that LADO makes at half the price. I may just machine one up myself and use a servo board to control it. I need several and not wanting to spend so much on fancy features. The Fans, Bats, ESC's LG and so forth are already big bucks. To just make the molds usually cost a few hundred just for materials. Got to conserve a little when able
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