I was at the Atoms RC swap meet today and after doing a few laps this Sterling Waco SRE appeared at a table with a whopping price tag of 60 bucks. Needless to say I bought it on the spot. Finish is poor but I'm going to totally redo it.

Anyway I pop the cowl off and there is a brand new looking Fox Eagle under the hood. Looks barely run, just a little dusty. Spins free and has good compression.

I don't know the displacement as it doesn't say anything on the case, but from what I could search out I think it is the 60.

Anyone know the approximate age of the motor and any value it might have? It did not come with a muffler.

Thanks!

That was one of the first modern .60 engines that Fox made back in the middle 1970's. Fox manufactured the engine for quite a few years actually. Hobby shops still had them for sale in the early 1990's too.

The engine has a .60 cubic inch displacement (10cc). It is a crossflow scavenged engine that uses a baffle on the piston. It also uses a steel sleeve with a aluminum piston with a ring on it. It was equal to the other .60 engines around at the time, such as the HB .61, K&B/Veco .61, and others like it. The stock OEM muffler is rather restrictive so using a better muffler can really liven the engine up a lot.

Fox suggested using a 11x8 prop on the engine. Power is a little over 1 HP. It does take a while to break in or run it in though. Many people didn't have the patience to do so. But if you did, you were rewarded with a extremely long running engine that just doesn't really wear out.

Now if the engine had been run before and sat for a really long time, the worse thing that might happen, is that it may need new crankshaft bearings. But that really depends on the fuel the previous owner used and whether it had castor oil in it and if the owner oiled it up good after it last run.

The engines tended to have fairly high compression ratios and preferred lower nitro-methane glow fuel such as zero percentage and 5% nitro flow fuel. But after it gets run in good you could run higher percentages of nitromethane.

You have one of the earlier models, using the old style butterfly throttle carbs. The large adjustment disc on the left is the high speed needle and the small little screw on the front right is the low speed needle adjustment (it is not an airbleed carb). The idle speed is the small screw on the throttle stop plate on the right. Use a short length of black neoprene tubing for the fuel inlet fitting. The fitting is tapered and silicon fuel tubing will simply slip on off of it. But the neoprene tubing will bond with the aluminum and glue itself on quite nicely. The low speed needle does interfere with the high speed needle adjustment. So after adjusting the low speed do check the high speed. Once you have it adjusted it tends to rarely need adjusting unless there is a major weather change such as fall and spring or high heat summer.

Originally Posted by earlwb

That was one of the first modern .60 engines that Fox made back in the middle 1970's. Fox manufactured the engine for quite a few years actually. Hobby shops still had them for sale in the early 1990's too.

The engine has a .60 cubic inch displacement (10cc). It is a crossflow scavenged engine that uses a baffle on the piston. It also uses a steel sleeve with a aluminum piston with a ring on it. It was equal to the other .60 engines around at the time, such as the HB .61, K&B/Veco .61, and others like it. The stock OEM muffler is rather restrictive so using a better muffler can really liven the engine up a lot.

Fox suggested using a 11x8 prop on the engine. Power is a little over 1 HP. It does take a while to break in or run it in though. Many people didn't have the patience to do so. But if you did, you were rewarded with a extremely long running engine that just doesn't really wear out.

Now if the engine had been run before and sat for a really long time, the worse thing that might happen, is that it may need new crankshaft bearings. But that really depends on the fuel the previous owner used and whether it had castor oil in it and if the owner oiled it up good after it last run.

The engines tended to have fairly high compression ratios and preferred lower nitro-methane glow fuel such as zero percentage and 5% nitro flow fuel. But after it gets run in good you could run higher percentages of nitromethane.

You have one of the earlier models, using the old style butterfly throttle carbs. The large adjustment disc on the left is the high speed needle and the small little screw on the front right is the low speed needle adjustment (it is not an airbleed carb). The idle speed is the small screw on the throttle stop plate on the right. Use a short length of black neoprene tubing for the fuel inlet fitting. The fitting is tapered and silicon fuel tubing will simply slip on off of it. But the neoprene tubing will bond with the aluminum and glue itself on quite nicely. The low speed needle does interfere with the high speed needle adjustment. So after adjusting the low speed do check the high speed. Once you have it adjusted it tends to rarely need adjusting unless there is a major weather change such as fall and spring or high heat summer.

Thanks for the great info! I love learning about these older engines. The cowl on the SRE is cut for some sort of pitts muffler which was removed who-knows-when for who-knows-why.

From what I see the motor is probably worth around 60 bucks.

And it's sold. That was quick!

Great place to put a small twin 4-stroke. I have the same plane and a Saito 60 twin that slated to go in it - someday...

One nice feature of this Fox Eagle is its weight. It is right at 14 oz's, and that is lighter than many of todays 40's.