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Although a few years ago I had good success with a 450 and a 5 blade head but that just used a standard tail gyro. And Sunday I also completed my trex 500 to a 4 blade head and used the Align 3gx as got a great price on it ($100 new), it flys ok but does require a lot more tuning.. Look forward to see your 500 fly with the Naza. Quote:
I believe there must be some protocol difference as S.bus on the 7008 does not work with Naza-m or Wk-m either in Sbus mode. Other then that I'm sure you will be very happy with it.. I am so far, but the proof is in the flying which I'm still yet to do.. As I said I'll report what I find good and bad
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United States, OR, Clackamas
Joined Apr 2007
103 Posts
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Tree trimmer
Have been looking at these lately since i have been flying FBL Blades and plan on doing some of my larger helis so far have just started to do my 600n with a dfc head and a beast will continue to watch you review on the NAZA H . recognized that yard from another or your videos so how did the tree trimmer fare ?? sorry but i did have a good laugh when i saw it
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I'm hopefully aiming to fly mine by this weekend.. Arr yes my yard has been in a few vid's now, it's my testing ground.. But must admit you have lost me in the tree trimming?? Which one was that? |
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Here is a video of my Naza H.
Chaos 600 stretched to 700. Turnigy SK3 480kv YEP120 esc KDE 115 mode 1 main gear 10 t pinion. ( now have 11t back on it ) I did a bit more tweaking since this video and I now have my camera rig on it. It's a very good unit and great bang for bucks value.
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![]() What % tail gyro gain is yours set at? |
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Las Vegas/Lake Tahoe
Joined Feb 2010
4,698 Posts
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Valkman that was nice. it looks like you were getting a little buffeting by the wind when you were up higher. Down low, behind he wall was very stable. A little tweaking of the gains and you should be there. Thanks for the video.
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Thanks guys. I got it a bit more dialled in since that video. Tahoe Ed you are right about the gains. The bobbing was on the elev so I turned that down a bit. Wind and rain here so no more test flights and I think the cheap bearings that are in the motor are on there way out anyway. Good job I ordered ceramic ones the weekend! I did not think they would last long. Also I had not done the auto trim in that video.
HH gain ( on screen ) is 32. Altti Trim Left -8 Front 5 Autopilot Front/Back 80%, L/R 100%, Vertical 95% FBL Gain Aile 140%, Elev 140%, Cyclic rate 170 My auto trim is Aile 271, Elev 13. I will trim this again as it was not exactly calm out when I did that. These are not final as I am still tuning it. Here is a pics I just took. |
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Well after all this time, last weekend I managed to finish the installation, set-up and get a couple of flights in....
I have constantly been waiting on various parts and when one part turned up I needed another as it was an original Trex600 being converted to a DFC head and every part of the head was wrong and then when I did sort it out I couldn't get my YEP ESC to play ball, could not get the governor to work, so gave up, sold it and brought a Castle Talon ESC instead.. As this has been my 1st flybarless controller and head it has been a bit of a learning curve in it's self.. The Naza is very easy to install, they suggest getting it as close to the CG as possible, so I have placed mine on the bottom plate almost directly underneath the main shaft with the receiver just behind.. I've mounted the ESC on the outside of the frame due to the very short motor leads, but will be going in a fuz anyway. All the servo's and ESC plug directly in to the NAZA and this in turn plugs in to the RX, very similar to other gyro's on the market. The GPS plugs directly in to the Naza using a CAN BUS connector and is suggested to be mounted on the tail boom far enough away from electronics, then you connect up the LED Module, this also connects to the NAZA via a CAN BUS connector. As this displays various information, like weather it is in GPS or Atti mode and how many satellites it see's it need to be placed somewhere in view and also easily accessible because this is where the USB cable plugs in to do the setting up. Both of these are in temporary positions for me for now. |
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Once everything is installed the next step is to launch the software assistant and connect to the Naza LED Module using the supplied USB cable, I would advise at this point to disconnect the motor, either by unplugging the motor leads or taking off the pinion... ETC. This is only necessary if you are powering everything up from the main battery.
You can download the software assistant here (as well as a manual): http://www.dji-innovations.com/produ...a-h/downloads/ These are my setting from my installation, screen shots. As a tip if you do download the software you can see some settings without needing a Naza plugged in and if you highlight each one it will give you a description of what it does (this is very helpful!) At the bottom of every screen it shows, what flight mode it's in, more on this later.. And Gyro mode HH or Rate and what percentage it's currently set at. Do not connect tail servo until you get to the Tail section in set-up this is so you can select the right settings for the tail before connecting servo. Pic 1: This is the 1st screen you are greeted with, called Common, this shows you information and allows you to adjust certain flight parameters like gain settings, TX stick positions, Battery voltage and RX voltage (If using the PMU) You can also set low voltage alarms, if you wish, this will cause the LED to flash, when a pre-determined voltage is reached for main and servo voltages. It also shows you certain installation information, like how you have the RX wired up and mounting orientation, etc.. There is also an Advanced button. Pic 2: Advanced screen shot, I haven't really adjusted anything under this Tab, I reduced Stick Boost slightly as it's going to be used in a scale heli, so not looking for quick reactions like a 3d pilot would want, other then that everything else has been left as default. Pic 3: Under the Set-up tab at the top you will find these next screens, once you select this you will get a warning to disconnect motor, then you will see the Start screen, this shows a picture of how things connect to the Naza, if this is the 1st set-up it's advisable to click Restore factory settings then click Start. Pic 4: Receiver: This lets you choose between connecting a regular type RX or a Futaba with S-Bus, the picture shows you how each one needs to be wired up, including different brands.. I'm using Futaba but unfortunately with the new 7008sb RX it is not recognised under S-Bus (DJi calls it D-Bus) I want to use this RX as it has built-in telemetry, so have wired it up traditionally. Pic 5: Mode: Under this tab you setup a spare channel (Ch.7) to control flight modes, I have used a 3 way switch for Manual, Atti and GPS.. If you don't have a GPS then you will only need a 2way.. You will need to adjust end points to get the slider to high light blue under each flight mode. Pic 6: Cali: This is where you calibrate your TX with the Naza, it learns your centre point and maximum stick deflections, Just hit start and move all the controls to there fullest positions then click Finish. Pic 7: Mount: This is for mounting orientation of the Naza, just select the box which matches which way the Naza is installed, it can be 1 of 4, but not upside down!! After you have selected this you then need to measure the IMU (Naza main unit) And GPS.. How far from the CG they have been mounted, Positive number for in front, Negative number for behind, there is also an advanced tab which you will use if you had to mount it off to one side or another or height if mounted above or below. Pic 8: Rotor: This lets you select which direction to tell the Naza the Head is spinning CW or CCW and if your using a flybar or flybarless head Pic 9: Swash: Under this tab you select which servo configuration controls the Swash/Head When you set up the TX you select single servo on Fuataba that's called H-1, this screen then tells the Naza how the servo's are configured.. Under the Advanced tab, this lets your select either Analogue or Digital head servo's (not Tail) and adjust servo positions if it's not in the main screen (very unlikely but nice to have the option if you ever find an unusual helicopter I guess) Pic 10: Servo: This lets you correct the servo direction for the Swash to make the Swash move up and down, with the throttle stick (this is not for left/right or Forwards/Backwards) Pic 11: Trim: This is used to trim the swash plate to make it level, Ideally try and mechanical get the swash level if you can or as close as.. Pitch trim is used to give 0º at centre stick, this is for those that fly on a V curve, I don't so my centre stick is half throttle and 5º-6º pitch. Pic 12: Mix: Cyclic Mix is used to change the direction the servo's move in to control the Ail and Elev, to make them move in the right directions, Swash Ring Limit controls the overall limit the swash will move when sticks are pushed in to the corners, reduce this to prevent binding, Collective Mix lets you change the direction of the swash to move the pitch up and down and how much overall pitch range is available, working range. Pic 13: Cyclic: This is only used if you are using a flybarless head, Select normal, Pic 14: Tail: At this point select the servo you are using under Servo Type, if unsure goggle your servo to find it's specifications, once you have selected the right servo type plug your tail servo in, then you can select rudder direction and adjust both left and right end points for the pitch arm on the tail, you want as much movement you can get but without any binding. Pic 15: Feedback, this is to confirm everything is moving in the correct direction, you 1st have to switch the flight mode to either Atti or Gps then click on the image, it will animate it's movement, confirm the heli is following the same if it's moving in the oppisit direction hit reverse. once complete hit Finish, this will take you back to the Main Screen (Common).. This is the main set-up done ![]() Pic 16: Tools: This tab at the top is for importing and exporting set-ups and also Calibration for IMU (Naza Main unit) Also you can do a restore to factory settings Pic 17: Info: This tab at the top will give user info, Software version Firmware version. You also must select governor mode on your ESC, if you have GPS then it is advised before 1st flight to calibrate this, go to an open space and away from anything that could cause the compass to get a miss reading, i'e away from anything metal or magnetic. Then flip the flight mode switch between 6-10 times rapidly and I always find finishing in Manual mode works best as soon as you see a constant yellow, begin calibration see Pic 18 Once you have done all the above triple check everything to make sure everything is working as it should and all bits are tight including ones backside before 1st flight... ![]() ALWAYS TAKE OFF AND LAND IN MANUAL FLIGHT MODE, 1st flight should be used to check everything is working as it should and then try and complete the Auto Trim, this is best done in calm air, see Pic 19 in progress! (still to come is Tail gyro set-up, another day i'm afraid) |
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So on Sunday after finshing it I couldn't wait any longer the only problem being is was blowing a gale @ 23mph guesting 39mph, 5c and raining... So that meant only one thing, I had to have my 1st test flight! lol
I'm not proud of my flying display here but will post it as it was the 1st flight. Video's are 1st flight, about half way though I switch to Atti Mode
4th Flight same day but later on. Testing GPS
And 5th flight done last night. Testing GPS and auto trim done
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